I have a Woods, it too will easily stop or spin the tractor around if it snags on anything that doesn't give.
I don't have all the DREAM hydraulics on it, but it can be off-set with a bit of wrench work for cutting drainage, etc.
Road snow almost always comes with salt, paint wears off very quickly, so rust is inevitable.
It isn't JUST the reversible replaceable cutting edge that gets wear, sand and grit flow over the painted parts of the blade too.
Get the thickest blade you can afford that your 3 pt can lift, this will also help with the
ballast question.
Yes to the loaded rear tires, the ballast that is the blade isn't ballast once it is on the ground.
Also know that a 'leveled' blade at a 15 degree angle one way may not be level at the opposite 15 degrees.
Figure this out on a flat dry driveway before you start or you may find some unexpected digs by the leading corner when the blade is very new.
As the corners wear to round this will matter less.
It is a long time since I figured it out... I just "know" where my top link needs to be set, as I recall;
On flat level ground with the blade set straight across adjust the top link so that the main pivot axis leans back a bit, then adjust the side link so that it lands flat and even to the ground.
Check that at 15 and 30 degrees each way the rear corner lands first.
Things shouldn't be so tight that the front corner doesn't land at all, but if that is the case shorten the top link.