The Log house Project begins........

[MotorSeven]

30 weight tar paper, 4" beaded styrofoam 4x8 panels, 4 quarter(1 1/8")x6 or better sawmill purlins, then tin. That should give me about a R-12ish which for Tennessee should be fine.

 

[MarkV]

Have you put any thought on how to keep critters out of the styrofoam panels? I have read that can be a problem in some areas.

I have been enjoying watching your build.

MarkV

 

[tony Cecil]

Hi

I swear I think you should cover the styrofoam panels with something, like the tar paper....before the outer layer of tin.....It would be reasonable at this time vs later....Tony

 

[tnmike]

I can say this much for certain. Mice LOVE the blue foam panels.They will chew it to bits. Rick have you considered the ice/rain guard product in lie of tar paper? It seals itself as its nailed. I dont know the cost offhand but I know it works very well

http://www.specjm.com/files/pdf/IceAndWatergardRS4060.pdf

 

[955Lincoln]

I can say this much for certain. Mice LOVE the blue foam panels.They will chew it to bits.

Yes, and the styrofoam inside of insulated overhead garage doors. I opened the door and had 2 mice fall out right on top of my head. The problem is, just an hour earlier I found a rattler in the same building. I think that was the biggest shot of adreanline I have ever been hit with until I realized it was mice and not a snake hitting the top of my head. Good news is, they ran right to the corner where the rattler was and he got one of them.

 

[MotorSeven]

Have you put any thought on how to keep critters out of the styrofoam panels? I have read that can be a problem in some areas.

I have been enjoying watching your build.

MarkV

Oh, great something else to worry about:smiley_aafz: I didn't even think of that, there is no way to keep critters out from getting under the tin through the "V" grooves unless I staple up rat wire the length of both eaves and at the vented peak. The other way would be to sandwich the foam with a ply/osb board on top......decisions decisions.

Tony, from what I have read, the vapor barrier goes only on the warm side(side closest to the house interior) and a second vapor barrier on the cold side will trap moisture. That is my understanding..... I could be wrong since the whole insulation industry info seems to contradict itself quite a bit.

955...the rattler was still alive? I generally don't kill snakes, but poisonous ones around the house get the lead pill.

Mike, with a 10/12 pitch I think 30 weight will be fine...that stuff looks like a good product though.

 

[MotorSeven]

I got up the first section of decking. Working alone on that pitch is fun. I put a heavy climbing rope up at the ridge, then tied loops in it about every 5'. I clip into it with my safety harness every time I go up.

Next was the question of how to get 2x10x12 (and later 16 footers) safely up. Cant carry them up because I have to use the rope to keep from sliding, and I don't want to install too many nailers. So, I grabbed one of the pulleys and rigged a sling on each board, then just hauled them up. It is time consuming, but it gets done.

Also, I welded up a man/lumber lift to get the boards up to the roof level. This is the easy side...ain't quite figured out how to do the creekside yet with that 200' drop off

Man Lift:

 

[MotorSeven]

Pulley/sling system:

 

[MotorSeven]

First section done(more lumber and tar paper get delivered on Tue):

The wide boards really look good:

 

[tnmike]

Glad to see safety harness. That pitch with metal on it is going to be slick as goose grease. The wide decking does look good. Youv'e got good weather forecast all week. You should be able to motor ..

The lift looks like it is coming in handy.

What kind of finish are you going to use on the interior? Let me suggest this. I have used it and really like it.

http://www.landarknw.com/SearchResults.asp?Cat=48