12v wire splice

[nickel plate]

I need to splice into a 12v wire that is hot only when the ignition key is on. The accessory manufacturer sent a splicing connector in the kit but I'm wondering if I should use something better, if there is such a thing.
The one provided is a 14-16 AWG made out of blue plastic and has a metal blade that once the existing hot wire and the new accessory wire are inserted, you close down on a plastic flap to force the metal blade into the two wires and create a continuing circuit. Is there anything better or should I just go with this?

 

[Trkrd]

They work great, use them all the time. Just mash that metal clip in with channel locks or slip joint pliers and snap the plastc insulator over it and you're good to go.

 

[Mike058]

Nothing better-that's exactly what you should use. Channellock type pliers work the best for me for pushing that metal piece down-as opposed to regular pliers.

 

[ss4010]

I need to splice into a 12v wire that is hot only when the ignition key is on. The accessory manufacturer sent a splicing connector in the kit but I'm wondering if I should use something better, if there is such a thing.
The one provided is a 14-16 AWG made out of blue plastic and has a metal blade that once the existing hot wire and the new accessory wire are inserted, you close down on a plastic flap to force the metal blade into the two wires and create a continuing circuit. Is there anything better or should I just go with this?

In my opinion nothing is better for making wire connections than solder. The solder-less connectors supplier in you kit are good for temporary connections but don't hold up to the rigor of outdoor / heavy duty use. Use good electrical grade solder, tinning flux and three layers of shrink tubing and you have a connection that is water tight, will not corode and is stronger than the wire to which you made the connection.

Here's a random link similar to what I'm talking about.

Splicing wires

I add tinning flux to the wires, solder them and then three layers of progressively longer shrink tubing.

Unless it's an emergency repair I will always use this sort of connection technique. I was educated the hard way. While offshore in the boat I had several wiring issues attributed to solderless connectors. They allowed the wire to corrode inside the insulation up to an 1 1/2" back from the connection, there was nothing but green powder (copper oxide).


Steve


O yeah forgot to add that the smash together type connectors you are using will limit the current capacity of the existing line. Essentially it cuts into some of the strands of the wire. The reason most wire is multi-stranded is because the electrons travel on the skin (outer portion) of each strand of wire. The skin effect is why a multi strand wire of the same gauge will carry more amps than a solid conductor. The smash together connector will cut through some of the stands creating a lower ampacity circuit.

I lost the computer in my truck because some bozo used one of these connectors to splice a cell phone into the same line that supplies the computer with power....

 

[MikeD74T]

nickle plate, Listen closely to ss4010, you may get away with scotchlock type connectors Scotch Lock Connector - Blue Gel 804C : Trailer hitch bike rack and trailer hitches - etrailer.com in sunny California but in any state that salts their roads scotch lock connectors are junk & a problem in the making. Use soldered connections or silicone sealed butt connectors. When I get scotchlocks in a kit I just throw them away, don't even save for another application. MikeD74T

 

[ray66v]

In my opinion nothing is better for making wire connections than solder. The solder-less connectors supplier in you kit are good for temporary connections but don't hold up to the rigor of outdoor / heavy duty use.

Steve

Amen.

Those blue connectors referred to by the op are called Scotch Locks. They do not make a good long term connection.

I cannot tell you how many times I have had cut one out, someone else has put in. ESPECIALLY if they are used outside of the vehicle. Trailer wiring is a good example. They fail all time.

Crimped butt connectors are much better than Scotch Locks.

But if I am doing it to last, I solder the connection. Then, use shrink tubing and it will NEVER fail.

 

[tractorsanmore]

I agree solder ( rosin core ) and heat shrink tubing with the sealer in them is the best way to go .

 

[Skyco]

O yeah forgot to add that the smash together type connectors you are using will limit the current capacity of the existing line. Essentially it cuts into some of the strands of the wire. The reason most wire is multi-stranded is because the electrons travel on the skin (outer portion) of each strand of wire. The skin effect is why a multi strand wire of the same gauge will carry more amps than a solid conductor. The smash together connector will cut through some of the stands creating a lower ampacity circuit.

Skin effect is not a factor in a DC circuit. A properly designed and made IDC (insulation displacement connector) doesn't cut any strands either....
Scotchloks are a type of IDC. I've had good luck with them, unless they get moisture on them. There are some Scothcloks made with a protective "jelly" in them to stop moisture.

 

[Egon]

I go for the solder connection too.

Had the Scotch locks fail on the truck trailer hitch wiring on a regular basis.

 

[ray66v]

Can anyone tell me why the word cut is always underlined on here???