Advice on "pole shed" over camper

   / Advice on "pole shed" over camper #1  

SCOOBY14B

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Aug 31, 2000
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155
Location
Cleveland, Georgia
Tractor
Kubota BX2660 Ansung B2504 FE loader and Kubota MMM
I've got a poured driveway beside the house that I park my 30' 5th wheel. I've been thinking about putting some sort of structure over it.

The driveway is right up against the house (see pictures). I was thinking about putting up a "lean-to" style shed with the high side on the house side. The tree in the picture is coming down this winter BTW. I would most likely use metal roofing. No sides, just a roof.

What kind of poles would I use for the side poles and how deep do they need to be?

Opinions?

Thanks in advance.
 

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   / Advice on "pole shed" over camper #2  
If drive is concrete and wide enough, I wouldn't put poles in ground
 
   / Advice on "pole shed" over camper #4  
I'd probabally use 4x6's every 8' appart.

What is the distance from the house out (how wide)??

I assume you plan on just using rafters and not trusses???

Will you be setting posts beside the house?? or attching to the house itself??
I know around here, there are stricter zoning laws when attaching to the house vs free standing.

As to the depth of the posts, that depends on your frost line. Which probabally isnt that deep down your way, so I'd be more concerned with depth and how it relates structurally. I have always been told you need 1/3 of the height of the pole in the ground. EX. if you have 12' sides, put it 4' in the ground.

So a search. There are literally hundreds of posts about which is the best method for setting PT posts. So I wont comment on that. Just make sure that the are well secured to the ground, cause with no sides, uplift in higher winds would be a concern.
 
   / Advice on "pole shed" over camper
  • Thread Starter
#5  
I'd probabally use 4x6's every 8' appart.

What is the distance from the house out (how wide)??

I assume you plan on just using rafters and not trusses???

Will you be setting posts beside the house?? or attching to the house itself??
I know around here, there are stricter zoning laws when attaching to the house vs free standing.

As to the depth of the posts, that depends on your frost line. Which probabally isnt that deep down your way, so I'd be more concerned with depth and how it relates structurally. I have always been told you need 1/3 of the height of the pole in the ground. EX. if you have 12' sides, put it 4' in the ground.

So a search. There are literally hundreds of posts about which is the best method for setting PT posts. So I wont comment on that. Just make sure that the are well secured to the ground, cause with no sides, uplift in higher winds would be a concern.

They would not be attached to the house. Distance to the house is only about 12".
 
   / Advice on "pole shed" over camper #6  
They would not be attached to the house. Distance to the house is only about 12".

Do you have any more details than that???

How wide is it going to be???(so we can figure the size of rafter you need).

How far appart are you wanting to set the posts and how long is this going to be???

What slope do you want the roof to be??

You need to figure out all of these things before you make a decision.

For example, If 10' is high enough and 12' wide is wide enough, I'd buy 4x6x16 posts. Leave them 12' in the air at the house and 10' in the air away from the house. This will give you a 2/12 pitch.

If you set the posts 8' on center, I'd opt for a double 2x8 header (one on the outside and one on the inside. And 2x8x14' rafters at 2' OC. This would give you ~2' overhang. Then I would use 2x4's every 2' laying down for the purlins to attach the roofing to.

As far as setting the posts, there are several methods as i mentioned and no one has ever been able to prove to MY satisfaction that one is better than the other. But how I like to set posts is to dig the hole to the depth with the bottom being a few inches wider than the top. This will resist uplift. And then I usually drill a 5/8 or so hole every foot of the post that will be under ground, alternating 90 degrees each hole (so they are not all in a line). I then shove short peices of rebar through these 3 or 4 holes, set the post in the ground, and pour concrete in the hole up to ground level.

That is my method, Others like to pour a pad in the bottom, others like gravel in the bottom, some like pre-cast pads, tubes, etc. There are several ways. But most importantly, check with whoever you need to to make sure whatever you do is up to snuff with you zoning dept, etc.
 
   / Advice on "pole shed" over camper
  • Thread Starter
#7  
Do you have any more details than that???

How wide is it going to be???(so we can figure the size of rafter you need).

How far appart are you wanting to set the posts and how long is this going to be???

What slope do you want the roof to be??

You need to figure out all of these things before you make a decision.

For example, If 10' is high enough and 12' wide is wide enough, I'd buy 4x6x16 posts. Leave them 12' in the air at the house and 10' in the air away from the house. This will give you a 2/12 pitch.

If you set the posts 8' on center, I'd opt for a double 2x8 header (one on the outside and one on the inside. And 2x8x14' rafters at 2' OC. This would give you ~2' overhang. Then I would use 2x4's every 2' laying down for the purlins to attach the roofing to.

As far as setting the posts, there are several methods as i mentioned and no one has ever been able to prove to MY satisfaction that one is better than the other. But how I like to set posts is to dig the hole to the depth with the bottom being a few inches wider than the top. This will resist uplift. And then I usually drill a 5/8 or so hole every foot of the post that will be under ground, alternating 90 degrees each hole (so they are not all in a line). I then shove short peices of rebar through these 3 or 4 holes, set the post in the ground, and pour concrete in the hole up to ground level.

That is my method, Others like to pour a pad in the bottom, others like gravel in the bottom, some like pre-cast pads, tubes, etc. There are several ways. But most importantly, check with whoever you need to to make sure whatever you do is up to snuff with you zoning dept, etc.

It would be 10' INSIDE opening.

It would have to be 13'6" at the lowest point. Other side I'd probably do about 15' or so.

The pole span I'd say would be about 8' like mentioned before.

I'd be digging the holes with some good 'ole PHD's.
 
   / Advice on "pole shed" over camper #8  
With only being 10' wide, you could get by with 2x6x12' rafters. This would give you just a spec under a 2' overhang. Spacing would be 2' OC. Since you are in georgia, you dont have to worry too much about snow loads. But do make sure you use the metal hurricane ties on every rafter. Not sure but I would suspect you get some good winds on ocassion.

And you are going to need longer poles as well. And given the height, I would definatally use knee braces on them as well.

If you can tolerate the looks and can get them, call your utility company and see if they have any used poles. I know up here we can get them for free if we load them. They only as for a donation to charity. (they are a non-profit coop).

It took me awhile to get enough to do my 30x50 pole barn, but saved a ton of money and they are stronger and will outlast even 6x6PT posts.

Good luck with the build and keep us posted. If you have any more specific questions, feel free to ask. But as I already mentioned, when it comes to setting the posts in the ground, check your local code before you do anything. And it probabally wouldn't hurt to check on the rafter "hurricane" ties as well. And dont forget to buy the building permit if required. Paying the fine later as well as having to then buy the permit is a waste money.
 
   / Advice on "pole shed" over camper #10  
Look at your doors and windows and slides on the camper and make sure the posts miss them.
It might look irregular but I've seen people not be able to open the door or carnk out the slide.

tom
 
 
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