New Home Begins

   / New Home Begins #41  
tkappeler said:
Thanks. I really appreciate it now. :thumbsup: We have moved about 5 tons of trash, 4 tons of stone/concrete/cinder block, at least 8 tons of firewood (yet to be split) and lots of moving of materials around.

If you see the floor plan, since it's a rancher, it has a large footprint. 47 square of shingles :eek:

Shame you couldn't have found a place to just bury that cinder block someplace. It wouldn't hurt nothing in a hole and saved you some money for waste removal
 
   / New Home Begins #42  
Shame you couldn't have found a place to just bury that cinder block someplace. It wouldn't hurt nothing in a hole and saved you some money for waste removal

In some areas it isn't legal to bury building debris on site.
 
   / New Home Begins #43  
Robert_in_NY said:
In some areas it isn't legal to bury building debris on site.

Yeah it's that way here too but I would think cinder blocks would be an exception. Broken up it could even be used on a soft or muddy roadbed with base rock placed on top.
 
   / New Home Begins #44  
Here are PDFs of the floor plan and front and back elevations:

Floor Plan

Front and Back Elevations
Tom,
I like the floor plan. One thing I would consider if I were in your place. The garage is in front of the kitchen, most likely to enable the house to fit in a subdivision lot. You are building on a large lot so I would consider moving the garage and laundry to the side of the kitchen. That would allow you to have a wider front porch and some windows on the front side of the great room. Doing so would give you more light in the great room and a good cross-breeze if you like to open the windows to cool the place down. The house would also be more attractive and you avoid that prominent "All-Garage" look that many city houses have. You could talk to your builder. He might be able to move the garage without getting new plans drawn up. It also would give the house a larger look without significantly increasing the cost.

Obed
 
   / New Home Begins
  • Thread Starter
#45  
Tom,
I like the floor plan. One thing I would consider if I were in your place. The garage is in front of the kitchen, most likely to enable the house to fit in a subdivision lot. You are building on a large lot so I would consider moving the garage and laundry to the side of the kitchen. That would allow you to have a wider front porch and some windows on the front side of the great room. Doing so would give you more light in the great room and a good cross-breeze if you like to open the windows to cool the place down. The house would also be more attractive and you avoid that prominent "All-Garage" look that many city houses have. You could talk to your builder. He might be able to move the garage without getting new plans drawn up. It also would give the house a larger look without significantly increasing the cost.

Obed

Thanks for the suggestion but I really can't move it at this point. First, the lot may be 3.5 acres, but it's like a bowling alley. 140' wide and 1/4 mile deep. I needed a variance since the zoning requires 50' on EACH side, leaving me with 34' to build in. Making the house wider is not an option. The front faces N-NE, so more windows there does not help too much there.

The architect is wrapping up this weekend (hopefully), so we are really close to applying for permits.
 
   / New Home Begins
  • Thread Starter
#46  
I see that the codes have now changed so that we have to have all "habitable" areas using ACFI circuits. At first I thought "Holy crap, how many circuits at a price differential of approximately $30 EACH." I was already at 35 circuits. The last time I did a major upgrade, the old codes only required ACFIs in bedrooms, so was planning on three ACFI breakers. After researching the definition of "habitable", it only means three more circuits. Whew!

Also, who is the numnutz that conceived of putting the french drain on the outside of the foundation, only to bring the water inside, just to pump it outside again? I do understand the premise of reducing hydrostatic pressure on the foundation, but this just seems so .... wrong.

Venting complete. Thanks.
 
   / New Home Begins #47  
Ah yes. The code silliness. AFCIs are ridiculous in all circuits, but then so are the tamper proof outlets. But they will still be required.

You may be able to daylight the footing drains. It is beyond dumb to bring them inside if you can avoid it, but I understand what you are saying...
 
   / New Home Begins
  • Thread Starter
#48  
Ah yes. The code silliness. AFCIs are ridiculous in all circuits, but then so are the tamper proof outlets. But they will still be required.

You may be able to daylight the footing drains. It is beyond dumb to bring them inside if you can avoid it, but I understand what you are saying...

Unfortunately, the ground is about as flat as can be ... maybe a 1.5' total elevation difference. The footings will be down about 4' with the rest of the basement built up out of the ground. Lots of fill will be brought in.
 
   / New Home Begins #49  
Can you go to a dry well?
 
 
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