Building a stick frame house in the woods in 90 days

[Woody65]

Pclausen,

I have installed the fascia trim exactly as your builder is doing thousands of times without there ever being a problem. I am from the Northeast and we have plenty of ice dams in the winter. Nice house and great thread!

 

[s219]

Yeah, that fascia install is common in my area when not using a separate drip edge piece.

 

[dave1949]

Pclausen,

I have installed the fascia trim exactly as your builder is doing thousands of times without there ever being a problem. I am from the Northeast and we have plenty of ice dams in the winter. Nice house and great thread!

View attachment 310371

What are the pros and cons of that method?

I am having trouble seeing the advantages

These are the things that would worry me:
The shingle edge looks a bit ragged.
Wind-driven rain could go between the trim coil and shingle underside unless caulked.
The trim coil could do some soda canning and break that seal if it is applied.
A ladder without a stabilizer resting on the shingles will dent the shingle edge.

 

[Bob77064]

Looking good, great thread.

 

[Woody65]

What are the pros and cons of that method?

I am having trouble seeing the advantages

These are the things that would worry me:
The shingle edge looks a bit ragged.
Wind-driven rain could go between the trim coil and shingle underside unless caulked.
The trim coil could do some soda canning and break that seal if it is applied.
A ladder without a stabilizer resting on the shingles will dent the shingle edge.

The effectiveness is the same as a drip edge but it has a much cleaner look aesthetically.
I believe we are looking at a gable end and that is why it looks that way as opposed to the gutter/fascia end which would have a much smoother look.
If the metal is bent properly on a brake the underside of the shingle lays tight to the return bend preventing any water from entering.
I have never applied any sealant to this area.
A gutter should cover and keep a ladder from crushing the shingles. If a ladder is on the gable end, I have dented drip edge along with the above method if not careful. Around here drip edge is only used by homeowners or someone without a bending brake to custom make your own aluminum trim.
Hope this helps explain some of the above.

 

[dave1949]

The effectiveness is the same as a drip edge but it has a much cleaner look aesthetically.
I believe we are looking at a gable end and that is why it looks that way as opposed to the gutter/fascia end which would have a much smoother look.
If the metal is bent properly on a brake the underside of the shingle lays tight to the return bend preventing any water from entering.
I have never applied any sealant to this area.
A gutter should cover and keep a ladder from crushing the shingles. If a ladder is on the gable end, I have dented drip edge along with the above method if not careful. Around here drip edge is only used by homeowners or someone without a bending brake to custom make your own aluminum trim.
Hope this helps explain some of the above.

It does, thanks.

 

[pacerron]

What are the pros and cons of that method?

I am having trouble seeing the advantages

These are the things that would worry me:
The shingle edge looks a bit ragged.
Wind-driven rain could go between the trim coil and shingle underside unless caulked.
The trim coil could do some soda canning and break that seal if it is applied.
A ladder without a stabilizer resting on the shingles will dent the shingle edge.

I don't think Woody recognizes that this is a rake end rather than a soffit end.
You can plainly see the courses of shingle and the poorly done cut off that will have to be trimmed again.
At the soffit end the starter strip creates a straight line for the first layer of shingles to be layed over. There is no cut off
of the 3D part of the first row that you see on a finished roof. With the 3D style shingle it is common to run a starter strip up the edge of the rake ends as well sticking out a little beyond a properly installed drip edge. Since 3D shingles are about 39" long and have no tab slots no cutting in place along the rake edge is required either, which results in a nice even edge, unlike what you get with one that is cut after installation.
If you look at the pic Pete took along the front edge of the garage rake you will see a bunch of shingles that have been sticking out beyond the edge a number of inches. They are probably bowed up some back on the roof as a result and when finally trimmed may take some real heat to seal down
Don't trust what you get as opinions from anybody on these forums, including me.
Look up the proper way to install a roof and what the various manufacturers suggest.
As you said the main purpose is to keep water from getting into places that will
create problems with mold, decay, and decomposition of the flakeboard sheathing,
as well as protect from wind damage as much as possible.

 

[Dr Dave]

Have you ever read the instructions for Ice and water shield ??? http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=...u4CoAw&usg=AFQjCNE7HZii1GcK4c2_IU5FiTymBYhcSA[/QUOTE]

Yes,I have, I just did my rental house last fall. On the rake the drip edge goes over the felt or ice/water sheild and at the soffet, the felt, or ice water sheild goes over the drip edge. I like the look of the 1 peice, drip edge/facia, but I think it would function better if it, was folded 180 deg at the top and extended under the roofing.

Dave

 

[hr3]

I don't see your point with this post. All that I saw that I think to be relevant was:

--Place metal drip edges or wood starter shingles over the membrane.

What is your point exactly?

That was my point,, the Dr. said the drip edge was to go under the membrane but in the instructions it says it should go on top.. like it shows in pclausen's pictures..

 

[s219]

Between the houses we have built in this area, and the one we are building now, that drip edge and finish is 100% inline with the way it's done here. I wouldn't worry about it one bit.

Actually, the house we are building now is the first with a formal drip edge, since it's a craftsman with rafter tails and stained wood overhangs (no soffit). For that, we used bronzed-brown powder coated aluminum drip edge. All the other houses have had the drip edge return bent into the aluminum fascia trim. The shingles then overhang that up to 1" - 1.5" or so. Have not seen issues with that in 20+ years.