40x60 Metal Building Cost?

[flusher]

I'm planning on buying a 40x60 metal building with a 16' eve with at 4/12 pitch. I'm trying to get a ballpark of what others have paid for:

Site prep - my site is pretty level with no trees and easy access
Concrete - 6" thick with rebar
40x60x16 with at 4/12 or 6/12 pitch
insulation package
one 12x14' rollup door
one 10x10' rollup door
2 regular entrance doors


Any info in part would be appreciated. If you assembled yours yourself, how hard was it? I am looking at an Olympia Steel Building. Anybody have feedback on their buildings?

In June05 I had a steel frame building erected on a 24'x42' concrete pad, 3000psi concrete 6" thick with #4 rebar criss crossed on 24" centers. Wall height is 12 ft, roof is 2:12. Two 10'x10' rollup doors, one window, one 36" wide mandoor.

Building cost:$16,000 installed. Slab: $7500

 

[kmdigital]

I'm planning on buying a 40x60 metal building with a 16' eve with at 4/12 pitch. I'm trying to get a ballpark of what others have paid for:

Site prep - my site is pretty level with no trees and easy access
Concrete - 6" thick with rebar
40x60x16 with at 4/12 or 6/12 pitch
insulation package
one 12x14' rollup door
one 10x10' rollup door
2 regular entrance doors


Any info in part would be appreciated. If you assembled yours yourself, how hard was it? I am looking at an Olympia Steel Building. Anybody have feedback on their buildings?

Are you talking all metal building or a wood frame, steel sided building?

With an all metal building, there really isn't any good reason to go with more than about 2:12 pitch, unless required for some other reason like local codes. Actually, there is a good reason to stay flatter, and that is that you can use much less expensive galvalume roofing instead of painted roofing. At anything over about 2-1/2:12 the galvalume roofing will be very obvious, which may be ok depending on the color of the sidewall metal. In general, I think the galvalume is a better roof than a painted roof, but that may just be my opinion.

Also, the steeper the roof, the more the building will cost, particullarly in an all metal building. If you want a steeper pitch to better match your other buildings/house, be aware that the steel roof won't look very residential compared to the asphalt shingled roof on most houses.

The building is one of the cheapest items. Concrete, with labor to install it, will be close to the cost of the building, and then labor to erect the building will again be similar, so whatever the building costs, multiply it times 3 and you will be pretty close.

To price a building online, go to Steel Buildings, Hangars, Commercial, Industrial, Warehouse or Steel buildings / metal buildings, steel garage doors from SteelBuilding.com. I bought mine from the former, because they were the only ones that sold me a Nucor steel building versus a generic steel building. The latter in particular allows you to design and price your building online, and was the best price I found, especially when compared to Heritage, even though they are the same basic building.

You will find that most steel building companies, including Heritage Steel Buildings and General Steel Buildings (avoid them, they have a bad rap) get their buildings from one of about 8 generic steel building mfg companies scattered around the country. The buildings are built to the specs of each company, such as Heritage, but they are still the same basic building.

I paid a few hundred more for the Nucor building than I would have for a similar building from SteelBuilding.com, but I got 12" purlins on 3'-4" centers instead of 8" purlins on 5' centers that everyone else speced. Also, since Nucor has a plant about 45 miles from where I live, it saved me about $800 on freight over what it would have been if it would have been shipped from 500 miles away at the closest generic mfg.

And buying it online saved about $1,000 in sales taxes over buying it from a local distributor, not to mention that even before that the local distributor was about $4,500 higher for the same building. I was happy with the building, but had problems with my builder, so get the right builder the first time, so you don't have to fire him and hire someone else like I did.

 

[DmansPadge]

There is a lot of good info and prices at Muellerinc.com.

 

[magrred]

Keving,
I built a 40 x 60 x 20 metal building mid year 2006 and here are the specs and cost break down:
Site prep - I did myself
Building - 40 x 60 x 20 (15 ft. eaves), 3/12 pitch, Red Iron I-beam construction, 26 gauge metal siding (colored) & roof, fully insulated, two 14 x 14 ft. roll-up doors, two walk through doors, one 30 x 60 inch window. All for $16,234.
Slab - 40.3 x 60.3 x 5in., 3,000# compression concrete, metal & rebar. $7,950.
Erection - $7,290
Total - $31,474
My utilization is storage for a 40,000# motor home, shop and storage.
Hope this helps,
Magrred

 

[mjarrels]

Sent you a PM.

mark

 

[keving]

Wow! Thanks everybody for the great info. I am now going to search out some local contractors and review their work. My work schedule doesn't really permit me to do alot of this myself, so I will end up paying a litte more to get the site prep completed and the building constructed.

I have another question about size. My first thought was a 40x60x16. I am storing my Tractor and all the stuff in my sig block. I will be building a rack to stack and store the QA items (bucket, grapple, forks, and blade. In addition, I will install a drive-on Bendpak lift, a couple 4 wheelers, a Skag ZTR mower, I also have a TIG, Mig, Plasma, and other welding items that I would like to set up in a corner. I'm sure I'll add some more goodies at a later time but not a single huge item. I'm wondering if a smaller or shorter building would work? My budget is about 25K for everything. Maybe a 40X50X14 or 30x40x14? What do you put in your building and what size?

 

[kmdigital]

I don't know about your storage needs, as there are many ways to store items, etc. But I can tell you that you either need to greatly downsize your building or upsize your budget! I built a 40x60x14 building in 2003, before steel went way up in price, and the only work I did was installing the radiant floor heating, the plumbing and all the electrical work, including EMT conduit. Oh, and I also poured a 20x65' concrete slab approach/parking area in front of the building.

My building also has 1' eves and overhangs at the gable ends, which I wouldn't do again. It makes the building look much better, but probably cost me an additional $2k-$3k, because of the addtional labor involved in assembling these componets, not to mention that it makes the building much harder to insulate on the gable ends. The overhangs added only about $800 to the cost of the building, but I didn't think about the additional labor involved. Also, the steeper pitch you talked about adds a lot to the cost of an all steel building, and isn't needed unless you need the addtional peak head room for some reason. In fact, the flatter roof of a steel frame building is one thing that differentiates it from a pole barn, and IMO lets people know that you have a better building.

It cost me right at $42k just for the basic building, and now with the extra work (including a roughed in but unfinished 20x20 future office area in the one corner) I have a little over $52k invested. I had problems with the original erector, which ended up costing me about $5k that I couldn't recoup because he file bankruptcy after I sued him for damages.

Is there any reason you need to go 16' high? Such as needing 14' overhead doors? Lowering this would save some money.

 

[joes_427_vette]

Keving; Don't know if your hung up on a metal building but I built a 40-72x12 high wood construction building very reasonable. I like the wood cause you can insulate it better and tin the interior. I also went with attic trusses, 80# per square foot load with a 6-12 pitch. This gave me an additional 12' wide by 7+ feet head room second story ( more room for junk ! ) . I heat 32 x 40 and the rest is cold storage. 2- 10 high 12 wide doors plus two 9 high 8 wide and one entrance door. Outside was done in vinal siding, concrete floor. The whole project was less than 20k ( insulation, wiring, tin ( walls and ceiling ). I have the materials for the cold storage part which should be insulated and sheeted this year ( if I don't wander off too far ! ) .

 

[CJ4]

Attached are a few pics of the metal building we just finished and are building a 2-story lakehouse in one end. The total building is 50'x75' with 14' sidewalls, 3/12 pitch, heavy gauge metal, gutters, 4 small wall-lights, 5" concrete floor with 3'x3' rebar and fiber, 2 18'x12' overhead doors, 1 12'x12' overhead door, 2 walk-ins, 31/2" vinyl backed fiberglass insulation, 8' metal lining around the inside walls, approx 1,200 sq ft of concrete approaches and sidewalks. The building is a bolt-up, the overhead doors have commercial i think 4" rails or tracks and are insulated. Total cost labor and all was $70,000. That didn't include electrical which i did myself. The doors added a tremendous cost at approx $8,000 for the three of them but they are nice.

A bit about the house or living area in case someone is interested. We used about 40% of one end (30x50) to build the house. The stage we're at on it at the moment is the texture is done......flooring, trim, cabinets, paint and plumbing fixtures left. We were able to put 9' ceilings in the lower story and still had plenty of room upstairs where there are 2 bedrooms and baths up there. Our master is 400 sq ft , cathedral ceiling, with French Doors overlooking the place with a 6'x20' deck. (you can tell i'm excited....lol) We are very impressed that it's turning out as nice as it has inside a metal building!! We used 2x6 studs throughout and prob overkilled on insulation. The cool part is the outside part upstairs (where the ceiling is 7' or less) makes incredible storage areas and a lot of it. We've used every sq ft with a purpose. 4 bedrooms, 3 showers, 4 potty rooms in all. Maybe this info will help you or give you an idea.

 

[kentrodngun]

I have another question about size. My first thought was a 40x60x16. I am storing my Tractor and all the stuff in my sig block. I will be building a rack to stack and store the QA items (bucket, grapple, forks, and blade. In addition, I will install a drive-on Bendpak lift, a couple 4 wheelers, a Skag ZTR mower, I also have a TIG, Mig, Plasma, and other welding items that I would like to set up in a corner. I'm sure I'll add some more goodies at a later time but not a single huge item. I'm wondering if a smaller or shorter building would work? My budget is about 25K for everything. Maybe a 40X50X14 or 30x40x14? What do you put in your building and what size?

Keving, I have a 40x50x12 building. I have a (not quite installed yet) Bendpak lift, a car, two boats on trailers, my 30hp tractor, all the implements, shop, bench, welders, table & radial saws, drill presses, tons of hand & power tools, rolling tool crib, etc. and of course a water cooler/refrig since I'll be spending so much time there. Not a great picture attached, but it will give you some idea - still looks roomy.

Hate to burst your bubble, but I would be amazed if you could get much done for only $25k. My excavation, foundation & backfill cost me close to that. Perhaps you might consider putting up a pole building with a gravel floor to keep costs down. You can pour a concrete floor sometime down the road (perhaps when you hit Lotto ). Most of the posters who provided costs are way above your number and as kmdigital pointed out, steel prices have gone through the roof. Good luck and keep us "posted".