1700 Engine Rebuild

   / 1700 Engine Rebuild #21  
Here is a picture of the injector pump attach bolts, see the screwdriver flat?

While getting ready to install the thermostat, I noticed an extra hole in the gasket. Sure enough there was a hole in the housing that was blocked with corrosion. I took a drill bit and cleaned it out. In years past we used to punch a small hole in the thermostat for an air vent. This tractor comes with a built in air vent. What this hole does is allow air/coolant past the thermostat so it will fill completly without warming up the engine until the thermostat opens.
unk
Russell

The slotted threaded stud that you have seems to be different than what I have, or in my case the slot might have completely been filled with gunk. Next time I'm there will check it with a pick. Your stud seems to protrude more as it seems longer. My impression was that the injector mount is somewhat like an alternator as you loosen the pivot bolt to adjust and tightening bolt to keep all in place.

JC,
 
   / 1700 Engine Rebuild
  • Thread Starter
#22  
Making slow progress. The engine is pretty much done and I am cleaning and painting. I removed the instrument panel painted and in the process of reinstalling. I don't like idiot lights so I cut a 2" hole for a oil pressure gauge and I will "T" off and have both.
I still have to clean and paint the front axle but the weather is really wet today, too much humidity.
I'll post pictures of the front drive shaft assembly next.

Russell
 
   / 1700 Engine Rebuild #23  
Russell, awesome pics.

Looking closely at the repaired head pic, I have some questions.

Looks like a 'plugged' crack repair, whats the story behind that ?, what caused the crack ?

Why didn't they plug areas marked arrow #1 ?

Arrow #2, that looks nasty. Is that a repair plug ?
 
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   / 1700 Engine Rebuild
  • Thread Starter
#24  
Willl
The tractor was run hot to cause the cracks. That is the way I bought it. Yes they are plugs or as the machinist called them "Pins". The crack does not go into a water jacket and are just to stop movement/spreading cracks. Yes #2 is a plug as well. Both valves were bored and new seats installed. The machine shop assured me that this is a good fix but, I will watch it close when I fire it up.
Here are some pictures of the front drive shaft. First is the output from the transmission, second is the rear end of the shaft assembly. The small flanged fitting has an O ring outside and a seal on the inside. There is a straight splined coupling on each end. Third is the FWD end. Large flanged fitting has the same O ring, seal but also has roller bearings. Last is the front axle.

Russell
 

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   / 1700 Engine Rebuild
  • Thread Starter
#25  
Well she finally fired up today:D. I had a little trouble bleeding the system. I started out bleeding the filter and cracking the line at the pump. I pulled out the glow plugs and without compression spun it over. No luck, I couldn't get fuel to the injectors. I wound up removing the lines and the fittings that screw in to the top of the pump. There is a spring and a plunger. When I lifted the plunger air and fuel started seeping out. I reinstalled the fittings and lines, spun it over again and soon saw fuel mist coming out the glow plug ports. I installed the glow plugs and tried again, just got smoke. I used the dreaded ether:eek:, but just as short of a burst as I could. She fired up but it was short lived as the wires started smoking and burning:confused:. I shut it down but it was too late, the wiring is toasted:mad:. I completely disconnected all electrical except the starter and fired it up again. It smoked about 30 seconds and cleared and run like a champ. I let it warm up completely, worked the lift( no load) and shifted through the gears. Everything seems to work, except the eletrical. I put a can of Sea Foam in the hydraulic system as it was nasty when I drained/cleaned the screen. I will rum it about 10 hours an see how the fluid looks. May wind up changing it again. I still have plenty of work left with cleaning/painting the fenders and such. More to come.

Russell in Lizella, Ga.
 
   / 1700 Engine Rebuild #26  
Glad to hear it's running Russell.

Any ideas as to why the wiring smoked ?
 
   / 1700 Engine Rebuild #27  
Good to hear you got it fired up, These things don't seem to like to prime themselves very good, I had to tow mine as well as another member here after the fuel system ran dry.

Total electrical short? Ignition switch? That's odd. When I was checking some electrical problems I found that not much goes through that fuse block.

Good Luck, JB.
 
   / 1700 Engine Rebuild #28  
Great news jones! Feels good when they start and run for the first time. Maybe you could tease us with a few more pictures? It sounds like a positive lead got pinched somewhere and grounded out, thats a bummer. I wonder what else it couuld be if no wires were pinched, maybe the alternator? Did any fuses blow?
 
   / 1700 Engine Rebuild #29  
Russell,

Great news that you got the little beasty running again. Sorry about your electrical issue, some things are difficult to totally avoid and electrical stuff is prime example of it. What puzzles me is , why should the engine die if you had an electrical short after engine started since diesel has no ignition. I know my 1700 does not have fuel shut off solenoid. Do you have fuel shut off solenoid?

Hate to admit but, I had a "hair brain":eek: idea of having an auxiliary low pressure alarm to annunciate low oil pressure "loud and audible", so I devised a plan to use the "normally closed" pressure sender signal to switch on/off tractor horn as indication of low pressure. It actually worked quite well after I installed a cut off switch so the darn horn would not go off during preheating the engine. As I was improving the installation:rolleyes: I managed to short out the pressure sender unit :eek:, $25 mistake, as they say " no good deed will ever go unpunished"

Good luck with the rest of the work and please share good pics if you got some new ones.

JC,
 
   / 1700 Engine Rebuild
  • Thread Starter
#30  
The short in the wiring was at the end of the line near the alternator/starter at least that is where the damage is. I can't tell if there was a short or I wired it wrong.
JC, my fuel cut off is the throttle, as I shut it down immediately when I saw smoke and removed the battery cable. As for your idea of an audible alarm, I much prefer to see the oil pressure. Mine runs 55 pounds hot and idling at 900 RPM, with 62 pounds hot and 2,000 RPM.

I was going to wait on more pictures until she is presentable. I still need to work the sheet-metal, grill, fenders, and wheels to remove rust and do a paint job. Not top mention new tires as these are pretty well dry rotted and cracked.

Later, Russell
 

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