radioman
Super Member
perhaps its better with a single sleeve then double. makes it easier to slide without all that bulk.
BX25 GrappleOmatic
- Thread starter Artisan
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bindian
Super Member
Artisan,
The hoses, sleeve, and reusable fittings are here, waiting on me. I had to tear down my old workshop yesterday. Today will be digging up two big dead oak trees that could hit the barn or house. Tomorrow is Easter and my daughter and her boyfrined will be coming over. Also, I'll be looking at the equipment for auction at the RB Auction. Monday it suppose to rain here, so that is the day to install the hoses.
hugs, Brandi
SPYDERLK
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I only sleeved ea indiv hose as they left the collective sleeve at the grapple. My collective sleeve is quite snug on the double hose run - had to feed them thru staggered. Working the indiv sleeving at the grapple into the the collective sleeve was very difficult. Got it in a couple inches tho and tied it tight. Chaffing of hoses against one another wont be a problem for you either way. Its sharp flexing bends, kinking, crushing, or routine rubbing against the ground that they cant take. The sleeving is excellent for the last, a little for easing bending at the fitting if fixed to it, and almost totally ineffective against a crush - other than to hide it.
larry
Artisan,
If you can get the BX series tractors to produce around 15 GPM this would turn this tractor into an attachment machine. We have had several requests here at Danuser for augers on the BX series tractors. At this time we don't offer a 3pt digger small enough for this tractor. If the flow was around 15 GPM we could offer hydraulic augers for the front of the loader. Keep up the good work and keep me posted on your success!
If you can get the BX series tractors to produce around 15 GPM this would turn this tractor into an attachment machine. We have had several requests here at Danuser for augers on the BX series tractors. At this time we don't offer a 3pt digger small enough for this tractor. If the flow was around 15 GPM we could offer hydraulic augers for the front of the loader. Keep up the good work and keep me posted on your success!
bigballer
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nice job artisan - i really enjoyed reading this and seeing the photos of your work. i have an L series bota tractor with 2 curl cylinders, how would the feeds be plumbed? does it require a T in the line or a different valve?
SPYDERLK
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Cant do at reasonable pressure. Its a prime mover issue. Ya just cant squeeze more blood out of a turnip than it has in it.
larry
bigballer
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i took a look at my set up and discovered both curl cylinders are connected to the same hardline so i would need to add this valve right at the joint where the hoses connect into hardline coming off the main cylinder.
like this:
curl feed (rubber) <-> diverter valve <-> hardline to cylinders
i might have a hard time getting the hardlines connected to the valve so would need a short run of rubber between the valve and the hardlines going to the curls.
i am also considering a 3rd function which would change the setup.
now that you have used it a bit do you think you would benefit from 3rd function or is the diverter working well for you?
I have been having connectivity issues with JUST the TBN website so please excuse the absence...
B-ballr I wouldn't change a thing. It is fast, intuitive and strong.
Go for it!
GDanuser, I am not looking at the Rear PTO currently, actually all that stuff is in THIS thread, come on over...I have a comment for you.
Larry is right, read more about it HERE
B-ballr I wouldn't change a thing. It is fast, intuitive and strong.
Go for it!
GDanuser, I am not looking at the Rear PTO currently, actually all that stuff is in THIS thread, come on over...I have a comment for you.
Larry is right, read more about it HERE
dstig1
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Nice work, Artisan. You are even more of an over-engineer than I am
As far as shortening the wire harness, you will be better off to leave the crimps alone as they tend to require special tools. The best way to handle that without the crimper is to cut and resplice the wire in the middle of the run with solder and heat shrink tubing. You can do it somewhere protected or hidden if you like. Far easier than dealing with the crimper issue and is a tried-and-true method.
This reminds me that I never posted up my Fasse valve and grapple install. I should probably do that sometime soon...
As far as shortening the wire harness, you will be better off to leave the crimps alone as they tend to require special tools. The best way to handle that without the crimper is to cut and resplice the wire in the middle of the run with solder and heat shrink tubing. You can do it somewhere protected or hidden if you like. Far easier than dealing with the crimper issue and is a tried-and-true method.
This reminds me that I never posted up my Fasse valve and grapple install. I should probably do that sometime soon...
