Insulating My Pole Barn - need help

   / Insulating My Pole Barn - need help
  • Thread Starter
#11  
Thanks for your help guys. I do appreciate you giving me how you set it up, however I was wondering more or less if my "possible" set up will work.

My plan is to either
A. To fit polystyrene (styrofoam) between the horizontal girts (along the walls) - the polystyrene will be in contact with the metal siding
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B. To nail the polystyrene directly to the horizontal girts (the polystyrene will not be in contact with the metal).

I will then put drywall up along some framing (horizontal framing - not girts) over the polystyrene (the drywall will not be in contact with the polystyrene), there will be an air gap (4-6") between the drywall and polystyrene.

Here are some pictures of the inside of my barn:
IMG_1619.jpgIMG_1620.jpgIMG_1621.jpg
The plastic area you see is my current work area that I am expanding to be a finished room for work and play (kids).

My question is whether or not I need a vapor barrier with either option?
 
   / Insulating My Pole Barn - need help #12  
Us poor dial up folks sure would like it you would Google Windows powertoys, and download the free picture resizer... then resize your images to ' large '... which is something that will keep the file size down... [ :) ]...... Of course, maybe I am the lone dial up AOL person left alive these days.....
 
   / Insulating My Pole Barn - need help
  • Thread Starter
#13  
JerryK said:
Us poor dial up folks sure would like it you would Google Windows powertoys, and download the free picture resizer... then resize your images to ' large '... which is something that will keep the file size down... [ :) ]...... Of course, maybe I am the lone dial up AOL person left alive these days.....
Click to expand...

Try it in this pdf format, smaller size, hopefully this will work for you:
View attachment garage4.pdf
 
   / Insulating My Pole Barn - need help #14  
Worked great, thanks...!!!! I like the bubble boy house in the middle...... :)
 
   / Insulating My Pole Barn - need help #15  
Another thing, depending on the type of doors you have, if you want to keep the critters out.. now is the time to tackle any small holes around the perimiter and close them up. Easier to work on and find them, if any, without the insulation.... Me, I strive to be critter free..... I even moved my wood piles about 800' to the rear of the property last year. Those things were critter condo's....
 
   / Insulating My Pole Barn - need help
  • Thread Starter
#16  
Gunny said:
If you're planning on putting some heat in there (and I would imagine you do) I'd start with the ceiling. Before I insulated my ceiling, you'd have to stand right next to the woodstove to get any warmth. Got a deal on some 1" Styrofoam, nailed it to the purlins with those plastic cap roofing nails, taped the seams with builders tape and notice an immediate difference. The sidewalls just got plastic to keep air out and make a dead airspace, then nailed up OSB and pegboard. That also made an immediate difference.
Click to expand...

Gunny
It sounds like you are doing it cheap (like me). I don't need this thing heated all the time. In fact, it won't be heated except for a few hours each day to play/work. It will be half of my 30x60, so 30x30. I made a drop ceiling with R11 on ceiling (not a lot but it works). I don't know what to do with the walls. I'm a little worried about vapor. My plan is to simply put polystyrene board (styrofoam) either attached to the horizontal girts or fit it between the girts. No barrier or anything, and then drywall up on farming. There will be an air gap between polystyrene and drywall.

Think this will work? I have some pictures of my garage within the post.
 
   / Insulating My Pole Barn - need help
  • Thread Starter
#17  
Jerry K
What to you think about my two options (in an earlier post)?
Thanks for your help
 
   / Insulating My Pole Barn - need help #18  
The wall insulation is not as important as the ceiling and the upper walls. You have to keep the heat from going up any farther than possible, then recirculate it with a ceiling fan or something. Either way sounds good to me. I like having the foam panels so I can remove them if needed to work on something. In fact, even my workshop walls are all drywall screw'd. I could take them apart and move them if I needed to.....
 
   / Insulating My Pole Barn - need help
  • Thread Starter
#19  
JerryK said:
The wall insulation is not as important as the ceiling and the upper walls. You have to keep the heat from going up any farther than possible, then recirculate it with a ceiling fan or something. Either way sounds good to me. I like having the foam panels so I can remove them if needed to work on something. In fact, even my workshop walls are all drywall screw'd. I could take them apart and move them if I needed to.....
Click to expand...

Yes, I am in the process of building a drop down ceiling, 9feet, using the joists to put stud framing inbetween for insulation. The insulation I am using is R11. I know it isn't the best Rvalue, but something is better than nothing. I just need to take the chill out. The walls, like I said, I plan to buy the polystyrene (1") and put either between the girts or attach directly to girts, and then drywall over on framing. No need for vapor barrier then??
 
   / Insulating My Pole Barn - need help #20  
I recently insulated and finished my pole barn. You didn't mention what you are doing with the ceiling, but the ceiling insulation is more important that the walls. I put a vapor barrier under the trusses, followed by metal liner plate, then blew over 6 inches of celllulose in the ceiling.

For the walls I bought some used polyiso (high performance foam insulation) from a roofing company and fit that into the walls. Styrofoam is not great insulation. If I had it do over and didn't have the polyiso available, I would put cellulose in the walls. Put tyvek or some other building wrap against the girts, put a vapor barrier over the inside of the poles, add drywall/OSB/Metal panels/etc on the inside, leaving a gap at the top that can be closed after blowing the cellulose into the wall cavity.

Cellulose is the most cost effective insulation out there and it's super easy to blow in.
 
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