Another QA plow build thread. (Need help)

RockyNY · Jul 21, 2012

I bought this plow early this year:
http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/snow-removal/234268-new-plow.html?highlight=

I'm finally ready to start working on the build, and I need some advice. I picked up a new old stock skid steer cultivator attachment for $20, I've cut off the QA plate and cut up the tubing for use with hooking up the plow. Here's where I am right now: I want the plow to be connected to the rear of the QA plate as far as possible, in order to bring the blade up as close as possible. (I've looked over the threads regarding this design already). I'm going to be utilizing the plow's chain float, so the connection will be a pivot. But on our Mahindra 4035, the first stabilizer bar only allows 10" max sticking out the back. This means that my brackets going out the back can't go back farther than 10" or it will hit the bar during curling. This doesn't bring the plow back far enough for my liking. So I'm trying to decide what my best option is here. I can think of three possible methods:
1. Be satisfied with 10" set back.
2. Set it back as far as possible and just don't use the curl
3. Cut a section out of the plow's A-frame to shorten it.

What do you all think? How important is it to have curl, keeping in mind it will be a chain float? I'm posting some pictures here as well. First pic is the cultivator after I cut the QA plate of but before I cut the frame up. 2nd pic shows the stabilizer bar in question. Last pic shows the QA plate in the approximate position. The plow connection in the picture is 8" out the back. (max 10"). My goal was to get the QA plate to within 2 inches of where the chain attaches.

DK35vince · Jul 21, 2012

I would move the QA plate farther forward.
There is really no need to curl a snow blade down far enough that it will hit the loader crossbar. You can always cut a little off the back of the plow A frame late if needed.

Rustyiron · Jul 21, 2012

Looking at your 2nd pic gave me a thought that has crossed my mind when plowing with a blade stuck way out off of the loader and trying to turn with a heavy snow load on the blade (not so well) . I'm guessing this is why you want to keep everything as "tight" to the tractor as possible right? Here's maybe a different approach that might work out nice especially if you do not have front remotes for angling the blade. Just leave the blade alone, make a drop mount off that flat plate on the front of your machine and put some quick disconnect(s) on your bucket cylinders and use that for angling the blade. Drop a chain down off your loader somewhere and use that to lift the blade up and down. I suppose that if you wanted to you could use a solid connection between the loader arms and the blade and end up with down pressure on the blade if needed, otherwise use the float position for normal function. Overall this frame mounting is much better than sending the shock of the plow through the loader. You will not have the wonderful stacking ability of a loader mounted plow with this frame set up.

RockyNY · Jul 22, 2012

Thanks for the suggestions so far. I'm leaning toward not worrying about the limited curl when mounting it closer to the QA plate. I can try it for this season and if it makes trouble, change it next season. I really need stacking capability, that's why a frame mount is out for now.

RockyNY · Jul 22, 2012

Well I have now have a plan in my head and the cultivator chopped up and ready for cutting into the right sizes for plow mount frame. I'm waiting for a chop saw before I can proceed. I stripped the plow down to the plowshare today, the A frame came right off, but pivots on the sector were seized up tight. The pivot pins are in a blind hole, so I sawed them off in order to remove the sector. Now that I have the sector off, I can heat the pins for removal, and replace them with new ones. I'm also going to add grease zerks to the pivot pin sleeves. I want to clean up & repaint the plow and frame as well, but I'm trying to keep this project as cheap as possible, so there won't be any sandblasting done. I'm just going to wire brush it, use some Rust Reformer then maybe some enamel. So far, I have $245 into it. The only other expenses I foresee are new pivot pins, a PRINCE DRV-4HH cushion valve from Surplus Center ($80 shipped), hydraulic hoses, couplings and misc. fittings that I don't have a cost on yet.

dstig1 · Jul 22, 2012

I'm still working on mine, but basically the same type as yours. I need to get back to that shortly here and get it wrapped up.
http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/snow-removal/235669-fel-snow-plow-size-new-post.html

Does your FEL have a float mode? If so, why not use that instead of the chain? It gives you more flexibility because if you want to apply down pressure (not float it) you can. Like for scraping ice.

I shortened the back of the A-frame on mine by about 9" or so. Not hard to do. You need to get rid of those thick mounting tabs in the back anyways as they will get in the way and catch things, IMO. Easier just to whack off a chunk and weld on a new cross member.

You will probably want to get rid of the cylinder hose guards too (the "handles") as they will probably get in the way of the SSQA on the FEL, especially if you move it back closer in. Not needed as the SSQA plate should protect them.

RockyNY · Jul 23, 2012

Yes the FEL has a float mode, but keeping the chain float allows the weight of the loader arms to stay over the front axle for better traction. Also chain float reacts quicker to terrain changes than hydraulic float. I think both methods work, but from what I've read on here and other forums, chain float works a little better. If it works out like I plan, I will be able to apply down pressure as well.
I'll be keeping an eye on your thread and see how your build goes. It's going to be a while before mine is completed, that's why I'm starting now

RockyNY · Jul 24, 2012

Update. I got the seized pivot pins out of the sector side. A couple websites said that the best way to do it is to cut the welds of the sleeve and replace both the sleeve and the pin. But I was talking to a friend yesterday, and he told me to try cutting a slit lengthwise in the sleeve. I did this with a sawsall, and the pins came right out. I'm going to clean the rust out of the sleeve, and lay down a bead of weld where it was cut. I have new pins ordered, $30 from ebay, the new pins come with grease zerks. I also picked up a like-new metal cut off saw for $115, so I'm ready to start cutting whenever I get time.

dstig1 · Jul 24, 2012

The sleeve is likely to be pretty rusted out in addition to the pin if it was seized that bad. Welding that may be tough as you can't weld rust..and what's left for steel will be thin. Might be easier and sturdier to find some tubing and replace it...

RockyNY · Jul 24, 2012

No, the sleeve is solid, I made sure of that. The reason it's difficult to remove the pin without slitting or removing the sleeve entirely is because it's a partially blind hole, i.e. one end is closed up with an access hole only big enough for a small punch inserted at an angle that's difficult to land a solid blow. If both ends were wide open, it would have been a piece of cake to heat it and pop the pin right out. I'm not saying that there aren't cases where the sleeve should be replaced as well, but in my case the sleeve is not structurally compromised by rust.