12v diesel transfer pump

[RalphVa]

One option for diesel transfer is the Ironton pump on the Northern Tool site. I bought it for $31.20 as an oil extractor. One use ruined the seals on it to get suction from the next car's sump, but it still works to transfer diesel from a 5 gallon container on the floor to the 2025R's tank mounted in front of the gauges. It sucks air; so, don't know how long it'll keep working for me but is an option for those of you looking to eliminate having to lift heavy 5 gallon containers up onto the hood of the tractor to suction diesel into the tank.

Northern Tool gave me a credit on my master card for the $31.20 rather than my having to send the pump back.

I used a spare battery instead of the 2025R's battery is up front under the hood, as raising the hood to use its battery was the lesser choice. Could raise the hood, connect the clips and lower the hood to get access to the diesel tank again. There's a switch on the pump to start/stop it.

Ralph

 

[Industrial Toys]

I'm surprised. You would think it has more trouble pumping a thinner liquid. Buy something cheap and you just know the seals won't be worth much. Good ones cost 5 cents more. lol

 

[RalphVa]

Not sure diesel at 40 F is thinner than 0w20 at near 200 F. I'd have to look up their viscosities at 2 temps and calculate the viscosities at 40 F. Diesel is right next to 5w lube oil in distillation range.

The owner's manual of the Ironton pump says not to use it in the temperature range I used it at on the Miata's hot oil. Worked that one time fine but would not pump the hot oil from the Mz3.

Found some vis info. Typical cSt vis of diesel at 104 F is about 3. One place, it says it's around 28 cSt at room temperature (70 F?). Vis of 20w oil is around 7 at 40 C and around 55 at 100 C. So, I'd say that diesel at 40 F today is higher than 0w20 engine oil hot from the crankcase.

Ralph

 

[Industrial Toys]

I have a sneaking suspicion it's the temperature and not the oil itself. Can you put some new high quality seals in there?

 

[5030]

I'm a believer in pulling the drain plug versus pumping the oil out. I want to get what is in the very bottom of the pan because that is where the crud collects (if any).

 

[RalphVa]

I have a sneaking suspicion it's the temperature and not the oil itself. Can you put some new high quality seals in there?

Don't think one can work on the pump or find a seal to replace.

Ralph

 

[Industrial Toys]

I would certainly try and if it doesn't work, just add it to the increasingly long list of things I wasn't able to repair, or in some cases, not even figure out how they came apart.

 

[RalphVa]

I'm a believer in pulling the drain plug versus pumping the oil out. I want to get what is in the very bottom of the pan because that is where the crud collects (if any).

Ever look at detailed drawings of where a drain plug is? There's always a lip below which the oil cannot drain from the drain plug. An oil extractor can get down in that space before the lip and suck the oil out.

It's just a whole lot easier, particularly if the oil filter is located accessible from the top of the engine, to extract the oil rather than use the drain plug. I did a test on all my engines when I first got the extractor. I'd extract the oil and then open the drain plug. In most case, NOTHING came out. This was especially the case on my (then) JD 4010. No getting hot (near 200 F) oil on my hands (or hopefully nitrile gloved hand).

Ralph

 

[5030]

Ever look at detailed drawings of where a drain plug is? There's always a lip below which the oil cannot drain from the drain plug. An oil extractor can get down in that space before the lip and suck the oil out.

It's just a whole lot easier, particularly if the oil filter is located accessible from the top of the engine, to extract the oil rather than use the drain plug. I did a test on all my engines when I first got the extractor. I'd extract the oil and then open the drain plug. In most case, NOTHING came out. This was especially the case on my (then) JD 4010. No getting hot (near 200 F) oil on my hands (or hopefully nitrile gloved hand).

Ralph

Never been an issue with me and I don't wear rubber gloves when working on my engines. I find them to be sissy like. Besides, changing the oil allows me to get underneath and look over the chassis for issues, inspect the brake linings and driveline components (which I also grease because my drivelines all have grease fittings.

Never been scalded with hot oil, but then I don't use my fingers to extract the loose plug, I use a socket and extension.

 

[5030]

Speaking of diesel transfer pumps, looks like HF is coming out with a 20 volt Li-Ion Bauer transfer pump that will accept the 20 volt rechargeable pack. I use their 2 D cell pump and it's hard on batteries, especially when filling my 21 gallon fuel tanks in the field. I can blow through batteries pretty quick.

I'll be buying one to compliment my other Bauer 20 volt tools.