1720 Plow Size

[fried1765]

Thanks jeff for all your information and links. The ripper / cultivator that you send the youtube video link on was impressive indeed. Very good reading in all the other links as well. It appears you are well versed in the operation of these pieces, much appreciated. One of the things I really like about this site; there can be more than one "right" answer and you get to tap in on the knowledge from those that have "already done that".

Dirt Dog (see jeff9366), and Fred Cain spring cultivators appear to be nice pieces of equipment.
Do NOT buy a "DHE " (Darrel Harp Enterprises) spring type cultivator.
DHE cultivators look much like the Dirt Dog & Fred Cain, but are very crude. Built in India.
I bought mine, new, sight unseen, from a Canmer, Ky. dealer who was less than truthful when describing it.
Much time/repair has been spent trying to make it right!

 

[jeff9366]

Occasionally old Leinbach Field Cultivators become available. Leinbachs are built heavier than Dirt Dog Field Cultivators.

All used equipment must be appraised critically, including Leinbach equipment.

 

[50degS]

Thanks for the tips on brand names. There are a couple of garden cultivators for sale locally but no field cultivators which is what I will be watching for. Good thing is I am in no hurry so can wait for something I like to come along.

 

[jeff9366]

Field Cultivators have been produced by many manufacturers and have been marketed with numerous names.

The first Field Cultivator was produced by Harry Ferguson, the inventor of the tractor Three Point Hitch, about 1936. Ferguson called it a "tiller:. The Ferguson "tiller" was one of the first four implements produced for the tractor Three Point Hitch.

 

[tree grower]

Some very interesting points in this thread. I started plowing (40 yrs ago) with an 860 using Dearborn 2-bottoms, and the results were perfect. I now have a Dearborn 1-16 I used behind an 850, and now behind a JD 1050, and I can't plow worth a d__m. The plow main beam has been broken, but repaired to the point that the original geometry appears to be retained. I have the Ford Plow Book for N models, but that isn't much good for trouble-shooting. My biggest problem is that the plow makes a furrow too wide, ie the distance between the furrows is more than 16"--more like 20-24". I have set the beam as far to the right as it will fit on the cross-shaft, and adjusted the stay chains on the bottom links to move the whole unit as far to the right as possible, rotated the cross-shaft so the point doesn't pull to the left, and adjusted the top link to generate the proper 'suck', and I still get wide furrows. That said, every so often the parameters align just right, and the furrows are beautiful for about 20 ft . To complicate matters, 90% of the terrain I plow is sidehill and rocky. I would really like the design specs for setting up a plow from scratch. The Plow Book tells how to adjust it, but it is based on the assumption you have a Ford N tractor, and plows set at the factory. I want (I think) the specs for assembling the plow if it came as a kit.

I am fairly confident that most of the trouble is operator error. Any suggestions ?? All feedback welcome.

 

[jeff9366]

Create a new post in the ATTACHMENTS or OWNING/OPERATING forum by copying all but the first sentence there. Use an attention grabbing title such as WHY TURNING PLOW WANDER?

You will get answers. Some may help.

This thread is worn out for your purpose.

 

[BrokenTrack]

Some very interesting points in this thread. I started plowing (40 yrs ago) with an 860 using Dearborn 2-bottoms, and the results were perfect. I now have a Dearborn 1-16 I used behind an 850, and now behind a JD 1050, and I can't plow worth a d__m. The plow main beam has been broken, but repaired to the point that the original geometry appears to be retained. I have the Ford Plow Book for N models, but that isn't much good for trouble-shooting. My biggest problem is that the plow makes a furrow too wide, ie the distance between the furrows is more than 16"--more like 20-24". I have set the beam as far to the right as it will fit on the cross-shaft, and adjusted the stay chains on the bottom links to move the whole unit as far to the right as possible, rotated the cross-shaft so the point doesn't pull to the left, and adjusted the top link to generate the proper 'suck', and I still get wide furrows. That said, every so often the parameters align just right, and the furrows are beautiful for about 20 ft . To complicate matters, 90% of the terrain I plow is sidehill and rocky. I would really like the design specs for setting up a plow from scratch. The Plow Book tells how to adjust it, but it is based on the assumption you have a Ford N tractor, and plows set at the factory. I want (I think) the specs for assembling the plow if it came as a kit.

I am fairly confident that most of the trouble is operator error. Any suggestions ?? All feedback welcome.

I had the trouble you are experiencing and it took me awhile to realize it was because on my kubota Tractor, I had inverted the rear wheels to get a wider stance. This put my rear tires a little wider than my front...great for stability, but it was making my tractor "crab" going down the furrow.

This may or may not be your issue as I do not know if you have inverted rear tires or tire spacers on your tractor.

 

[BrokenTrack]

Field Cultivators have been produced by many manufacturers and have been marketed with numerous names.

The first Field Cultivator was produced by Harry Ferguson, the inventor of the tractor Three Point Hitch, about 1936. Ferguson called it a "tiller:. The Ferguson "tiller" was one of the first four implements produced for the tractor Three Point Hitch.

I got one of those! In fact you would be surprised at all the old implements I have here. It is a constant battle to keep the iron scrappers from stealing it, but I tell them all the time that I actually use that stuff. It even amazes people that you can walk into your dealer and buy parts off the shelf for implements made in1952.

 

[downslope]

Some very interesting points in this thread. I started plowing (40 yrs ago) with an 860 using Dearborn 2-bottoms, and the results were perfect. I now have a Dearborn 1-16 I used behind an 850, and now behind a JD 1050, and I can't plow worth a d__m. The plow main beam has been broken, but repaired to the point that the original geometry appears to be retained. I have the Ford Plow Book for N models, but that isn't much good for trouble-shooting. My biggest problem is that the plow makes a furrow too wide, ie the distance between the furrows is more than 16"--more like 20-24". I have set the beam as far to the right as it will fit on the cross-shaft, and adjusted the stay chains on the bottom links to move the whole unit as far to the right as possible, rotated the cross-shaft so the point doesn't pull to the left, and adjusted the top link to generate the proper 'suck', and I still get wide furrows. That said, every so often the parameters align just right, and the furrows are beautiful for about 20 ft . To complicate matters, 90% of the terrain I plow is sidehill and rocky. I would really like the design specs for setting up a plow from scratch. The Plow Book tells how to adjust it, but it is based on the assumption you have a Ford N tractor, and plows set at the factory. I want (I think) the specs for assembling the plow if it came as a kit.

I am fairly confident that most of the trouble is operator error. Any suggestions ?? All feedback welcome.

Are you see sure you don't have the tractor wheel tread spacing set too wide? In rough numbers you probably want a tread spacing of ~ 52-56 inches center-to-center for that plow. The plow instruction manual should tell you the exact desired distance from the inside sidewall of the rear tire to the centerline of the tractor. You can fudge this a little, but I can tell you from experience you cannot have the wheel spacing out around 68" and expect things to work properly with these small plows.