186D info sharing

[rockyridgefarm]

Thanks, that is better! Please buy some auto interior vinyl spray paint and make that purple GO AWAY... (Or do you call it Barney?)

I can clearly see the BH frame, and still am pleasantly surprised (but, should I be, considering this IS a Yanmar) that it is that way.

I should point out that with your setup, the top link plate really won't be a big problem, but you did ask for input, and I like to say things before stuff happens...

How is that ROPS coming?/w3tcompact/icons/grin.gif

I also notice your exhaust points up, my muffler is horizontal, with the pipe towads the ground up front. I bet it is just rotated... I am sure this is for the FEL

Do you have any specs on the BH and FEL?

Lets see, my round bales are 1000lbs... Don't worry about a bale spike for that loader.../w3tcompact/icons/laugh.gif

 

[rockyridgefarm]

Are you running ballast in your tires? How is the traction with the FEL?

BTW I have the owners manual, let me know if you need a copy...

 

[MDL]

I still think the top link plate modification would be somwething I will do in the future if I run an implement that would require use of that mounting area.

The Yanmar exhaust manifolds were made to mount for the task. The flange allows to mount it with a vertical stack like mine or with the pipe facing forward for example. As you noted the FEL frame runs forward and it tapers in at the front so I could not run the exhaust horizontal.

As for specs, I guess I jumped the gun.....I have all of the Yanmar parts/service/operators manuals for the FEL, hoe, and tractor but they are with the tractor which I won't be able to get to until next week. When I get them I will bombard you with specs and with more photos of detail.

The FEL runs off of the tractor hydraulics and the backhoe runs off of its own seperate PTO driven hydraulic pump. THe FEL seems to be very rugged like the rest of the unit and lifts well. I have been told it was made by ARPS for Yanmar. I am still researching this. I am about 95% sure the backhoe is a relabeled Woods 650 hoe made for Yanmar with subtle cosmetic differences like different sheetmetal on the control area. It has a 6.5 foot reach.

I don't know if the tires were loaded with ballast. I am not sure how to check that but it is something I was wondering about myself. While runinng without the backhoe mounted and doing FEL work last flll I had no traction problems to speak of but I wasn't pushing it too much either. I am a novice with tractor operation so there is a LOT of skew here due to me. I have popped it in 4WD a few times which makes a BIG difference in some situations like loose soil, water spots, etc. I even used the differential lock when trying to pull a massive concreted post out of the ground so I wouldn't spin the turf tires on my lawn.

I will be using the tractor for many general purpose functions around my lot. I have about 1.5 acres of lawn around the house that someone with finish mowing equipment cuts for me and the rest of the lot, 5.5 acres is primarily wooded New England country. I am cutting a nature trail into this wooded area which involves bucket work and backhoe work to create drainage, remove trees, and remove rocks. Firewood is tractor work too and moving the many rocks of the Granite State (rock walls). Heck, at this point I'll transplant geraniums with the backhoe if it means I can play with it!

 

[MDL]

I never addressed the earlier point about the front driveshaft shroud.

My driveshaft shroud was intact when I got the tractor but one of the boots was torn in two. It turns out that the other boot was ripped but appeared intact. I have replaced both boots. The driveshaft and joints are in excellent shape and I can detect no play or wear on them.

 

[rockyridgefarm]

You take yours OUT of fwd? I tried that once, engine ran hot, gas mileage went down YUCK! Trust me, I have terrain, Oklahoma is actually a little bumpy here (I live in the foothills of the Ozarks)

Mine has Ag tires, and ballast has helped a lot.

I used a $6.00 fill tool

 

[normde2001]

Mark, I wouldn't get too carried away with that toplink plate mod. If you read the original post and look carefully at the pics. showing the damaged area, it's pretty obvious that the bolts loosened up and backed out before the break. Only 3 out of 4 bolts broke out and the broken places still have a lot of thread showing below where the bolts were. Keep your bolts tight with "Locktite" and you will be ok. You might even consider longer bolts. One fellow said it would accept 1/2" longer bolts.

 

[rockyridgefarm]

<font color=blue>it's pretty obvious that the bolts loosened up and backed out before the break. Only 3 out of 4 bolts broke out and the broken places still have a lot of thread showing below where the bolts were.</font color=blue>
I don't want to flame, but I must correct:

Bolts were not loose. There was not a lot of threads below the breaks.

The damaged was caused loading a pond scoop in reverse, and with his FEL, he won't be doing that. I agree that he might not need to do the adapter, but no amount of tightness would have helped that casting stay together in my situation.

 

[normde2001]

Whatever you say.

 

[MDL]

"Do you have any specs on the BH and FEL?
Lets see, my round bales are 1000lbs... Don't worry about a bale spike for that loader..."

The YFL-650 loader is rated with a breakaway capactity of 1,050 pounds and a lift capactity to full height of 650 pounds. The bucket on mine is a 48" material bucket and a 60" grain bucket was also available along with forks and the other usual stuff.

Several of you mentioned ROPS kits for the 186D. I haven't checked with Yanmar on current availablility or pricing but the manuals show that a ROPS kit was available for the 186D. I have seen a 187D with the ROPS installed.

 

[rockyridgefarm]

<font color=blue>Several of you mentioned ROPS kits for the 186D. I haven't checked with Yanmar on current availablility or pricing </font color=blue>

Yanmar still had them, last I checked, for around $450.00. I know I should getone...