Oil & Fuel 1910 hydraulic oil changing/flushing.

[tvr383]

Hi,
I am due for changing the hydraulic oil and filter on my 1910.Apparently the PO ever changed it during its 18 years of ownership with 700 hours!!
Anyway the system functions good but as said sure I will change the fluid;now I remember having read something about flushing the internals with some solvant ,cleaning out lots of metallic residues apparently,but can't remember wich neither how the guy did it...anybody here who had done such a thing and what you think?
thanks,
Ron.

 

[RickB]

My opinion is any fluid in that system other than clean oil of the proper type is a contaminant itself. Drain the tractor completely (2 drains for a 2WD tractor, 3 for a 4WD); change the filter, and refill with new oil. If the new oil shows signs of contamination after a short run, change the oil and filter again.

 

[stuartshomepc]

My opinion is any fluid in that system other than clean oil of the proper type is a contaminant itself. Drain the tractor completely (2 drains for a 2WD tractor, 3 for a 4WD); change the filter, and refill with new oil. If the new oil shows signs of contamination after a short run, change the oil and filter again.

I agree completely. You don't want any other fluid in the hydraulic system. Hydraulics don't build up residue like engines. A fresh oil change and filter is all that you need.

When we used to service old engines we would drain them, put in a quart of hot kerosene into them (don't start it), let it sit for an hour, drain the crankcase, flush with a quart of fresh oil and then add the new. That would help get the gunk out of the bottom of the oil pan.

 

[JC-jetro]

if in doubt I'd put between 1/2 gallon to one gallon of right oil (Ford 134), or equivalent in it where you'd be able to flood the hyd pump, let it circulate for 15 minutes, drain and discard. I then fill to proper level of the recommended oil. Most of the sludge if any will collect in the areas of low velocity or basically the bottom floor of differential housing next to the strainer. I was in your shoe 4 years ago. I made a suction collection container along with my shop vac and was able to suck up at least 2 quarts of jelly like oil residue from where the strainer was and also drain. I used a simple garden hose for my suction tube.
with all the gunk that I picked up from diffy the transmission still looked pretty clean.

JC,

 

[tvr383]

My opinion is any fluid in that system other than clean oil of the proper type is a contaminant itself. Drain the tractor completely (2 drains for a 2WD tractor, 3 for a 4WD); change the filter, and refill with new oil. If the new oil shows signs of contamination after a short run, change the oil and filter again.

Thanks for the answers guys."shows signs of contaminantion" what signs would they be? I actually notice having a lot of excessively small air bubbles into the oil onto the dipstick even after having sat for long..I find this strange...remember this oil has not been changed for very long period .
thank you,
Ron.

 

[JC-jetro]

oil and water would not mix. agitation of the mix leads to bubbles being formed. I reckon you have either just more than normal condensation or water somehow got in it.

JC,

 

[ComputerGuy]

One lesson I learned is to drain the filter before starting to drain the tractor. The procedure is in the owner's manual. If you don't have the manual, order one off the net -- it will list out every "routine" maintenance procedure and how to perform them.

Your fluid does not sound too bad. Mine looked like chocolate milk before I changed it!