Oil & Fuel 1949 8N: Fuel not going through carb

[jaxs]

A Since it stayed on the intake manifold and will not interfere with rebuilding carb,leave the gasket until you see if a new one is in the kit you ordered.
B. Good plan
C. That's called experience
D. If shaft is tight,don't dis-assemble butterfly assembly.
E.You are correct about position(s) of butterfly
E1. Both are normal and we can talk about why after you comprehend the bacics.
Be gentle but thorough in cleaning passages. Remember,copper,wood and plastic will not scratch iron plus quility cleaner and compressed air is your friend. You need to get every speck of crap out but don't want to scratch or enlarge a passage. Very difficult to comprehend why this is so important but take my word and we can discuss it later if you are still wondering.

 

[cfb]

Hello Everyone,
I received my replacement sediment b owl today. I tried, off the tractor, to screw in the fuel line. I think I see the problem and wonder if I'm doing something wrong or need to order from another vendor.

When I screwed in the fuel line to the previous sediment bowl assembly, I strip the assy threads - a softer metal than the fuel line nut. I thought I started threading it correctly but then it stopped and I still did not have the line seated, so I continued to screw in the nut.

With the new assembly, I screwed in the fuel line nut , again until it stopped, and the fuel line was still loose. So I looked inside the assembly threads and see that it is only threaded half way. This was the case also I see now with the previous assembly. I then looked at the old clogged assembly that I'm replacing, and it had threads all the way, or practically all the way down to where the fuel line seats.

Could I possibly have a mismatched assembly and line? I got the part numbers right out of my manual. I got these from an on-line vendor, but the parts came from a distribution center called Atlantic Quality Parts. When I view assemblies,same part number, on other on-line vendors, the assy looks the same. The same image on any site I view.

Maybe someone can share the part numbers they've had success with and vendor, too please. This is a 1949 8N.

thanks - trying to stay patient.

 

[cfb]

well, I finished tearing down the carb. Boy, some screws tested my strength. It is really fascinating how this is put together, all the little holes. I think I got all the holes and have clear flowing now. I'll do a more thorough job again. All those brass screws/needles I removed look fine. Can they be pitted slightly unseen by the eye and that is why I should replace them? The venturi is plastic. The float looks to be in good shape, brass. But there was no spring at the base where the little connecting rod is. Do some designs call for it and some not? The idle screw was backed off just a tad over one full turn which is what I heard it should be. The main jet screw, however, was also just a tad beyond one full turn - I heard this one should be closer to two. Or could it have that far of a range or gets adjusted if the carb is not fully clean like I hope to have it? The throttle butterfly is a thick brass piece, but it has some nicks on its edges. Is that significant if not absolutely smooth? thanks again.

 

[Soundguy]

small nicks on the throttle butterfly won't be an issue.

The plastic venturi is not desireable, but works.

the half threaded fuel bowl is not correct.

 

[cfb]

Hello everyone,
Hurray, it starts! Well, sort of.
So, my replacement bowl assembly kit had the same problem, the port for the fuel line was only half threaded. So I got one from my Ford dealer and it worked fine. But I had to get the top end totally screwed in before I screwed in the other end into the carb. I also got a basic carb kit from Ford too. That was fun. I'm still amazed at this construction. I thought I may have put the throttle rod in backward, if that is possible, but i looked at my pictures and i think I got it right.
a. I put gasket seal and the yellow, fuel resistant teflon, on the carb drain plug and it still won't stop leaking? What do I do next?
b. It took a while, flooded a few times, but eventually started. But still I don't think it should take me numerous times to start. I do have vacuum by the choke port of the carb. Is it the compression of the pistons that pulls fuel to the spark plugs? I don't have a tester, but it does suck on my finger and also has a good explosion out too. Could my spark be insufficient?
c. I put the main jet and idle mixture jet both out one turns, which is where they were when I took the carb apart and what by manual calls for.
d. But it seems I had the throttle lever by the steering column all the way up more than what I recall before when I was getting ready to drive it.
e. Related, after it warmed up a bit, I put it into first and the engine died. It did this a few times and then I could drive it about 30 feet out of the garage, but then it died as I turned and went up a gentle upslope. Each time thereafter, it died as I was releasing the clutch. Tomorrow I'm going to add a few more gallons of gas to see if that could be the reason. The new fuel assembly did not screw in very far, I could have gone a 1/4 turn more, but then would have been out of position to received the fuel line. I don't recall if I just got one turn in or two. Just on the side, are there flexible steel fuel lines? So, my fuel bowl filled up after only putting in a 1/2 gallon of gas. I later added another half gallon, but wondering if the incline was enough to push the gas toward the steering column and not allowing sufficient gas down to the carb when I put in into gear ( no more gas was leaking out the drain plug).

I appreciate your continued help. thanks, cfb

 

[jaxs]

:confused3: I don't know were to begin.

 

[Soundguy]

atmospheric pressure is what pushes air in on a naturally aspirated engine, and you don't have a turbo or supercharger.

1 turn out on main needle.. I'm surprised it starts, unless the jet is incorrectly oversized, or the needle is undersized where it seats.. I'd bet it would be happier somewhere around 2 turns out.

1/2 gallon of gas in a 10 gallon tank means you are essentially, out of gas.

leaking out of the pipe plug bottom port on the carb means you probably have too much bubble gum n snot on the plug. remove the plug, clean the male and female threads.. check fit dry, then try it just with a liquid/paste type sealer. if it still weeps, and the plug is cast iron, replace it with a brass plug, add the paste, then tighten it and re-check. Remember.. NPT threads seal by thread deformation. if it's loose, it can't seal. some threads get cut a little odd, and you experience a little resistance screwing it in, but before it is sealed, so sometimes giving it a little extra twist helps. the brass plug helps because it is soft and deforms easier.

if you had rods in backwards.. your linkage hookup would be apparent and wrong.

she's stalling on load because she is probably very, very lean.

Still, it never hurts to check spark.. it's free, and easy.

And you can check spark at stall.. if it has spark after stall.. it's fuel.

 

[cfb]

Thanks Soundguy,
that's what I figured as I was thinking (and praying) about it last night. Prayer was answered. Last night at our tractor club Christmas dinner, a guy said to open the main jet some more which is what you said too. I added a few more gallons of gas this morning and opened up the jet 1/4 turn. [ I'll recheck my manual, but pretty sure it said just one turn, but I watched a video put out by Steiner who said just what you said - two turns. ] Also, I'm the guy too that lost the oil pressure, which was my whole goal when I started this venture. I did try the "prime-the-pump" routine through the front engine pressure relief plug yesterday, but no oil pressure. The same guy from last night told me to just load up the hole with oil. So I did that too this morning. The tractor started right away. AND, oil pressure came back pretty quickly too, just under 40 psi at almost full throttle. I put the tractor in gear, released the clutch and hurrah, off I went. Talk about happy! This was my Christmas present. I, of course, just had to drive around the yard several times. I died off an on in idle. I add more gas. Oil pressure came back each time. I backed it into the barn and after an hour or so maybe, started it up again and got pressure. So will try again tomorrow.
Surprisingly, the bottom carb plug was not leaking anymore, so obviously very pleased about that. The plug I have is brass, so interesting about the different types. Out of curiosity though, can you give me a name of the paste I could use that you referenced? I should say too, that the tractor starts right up now on just a minimum choke. And it idles nicely down too so I an go slowly with pressure around 30 psi, maybe a little less. Some more work to do now on other part, but I have my garage back now.

 

[Soundguy]

paste like harveys, oatey or gasoila.

1.25 turns is still probably a hair lean, depending on what the needle and jet looks like. I'd try 1.5 turns and set there and gas it looking at the exhaust. As a rule of thumb, you can increase the main jet a little and check by throttling it up and down and looking for a puff of black sooty smoke.. once you hit the sooty smoke, you back it down till the sooty smoke stops. then you know you aren't lean. Lean mixes can cause or worsen heating issues. Sometimes at night or in the dark, you will notice your manifold glowing red if you are too lean. Lean also can make for popcorn farting and dieing at low rpm when a load is applied.

 

[cfb]

Thank you for this added explanation. Quite helpful actually for my understanding. Definitely do not want a glowing manifold. I will try this later today.

Would you mind sharing what that gasket paste is that you speak of? name/brand. thank you,