OP
bluejacket60
New member
Thanks for all the help I am passing this information along to my brother.
1964 Ford tractor
- Thread starter bluejacket60
- Start date
Soundguy
Old Timer
- Joined
- Mar 11, 2002
- Messages
- 52,238
- Location
- Central florida
- Tractor
- RK 55HC,ym1700, NH7610S, Ford 8N, 2N, NAA, 660, 850 x2, 541, 950, 941D, 951, 2000, 3000, 4000, 4600, 5000, 740, IH 'C' 'H', CUB, John Deere 'B', allis 'G', case VAC
yep.. the ep adds in the lubes are generally sulfur compounds. add a lil water in and you get some acidic compounds.
thus only lubes listed as mild ep are normally ok. that gives you the mineral gear oil 90w gl1 and even up to gl3. past that in the gl4/5 territory.. best to find one that says yellow metal safe and carrying an MT1 spec . many people carry one.. sometimes even walmart does.
on the ND oil.
i don't doubt that years of varnish might start coming off.
here's what i have done on any real dirty engine i have found.. whether i think it was ND oil.. or just years of neglect.
go buy a bulk container of CHEAP oil... cheap as you can get.. can be an old s rating.
do an oil change with 4qts of that and 1.5 qts of type f or dex/merc3 atf. and put in a cheapy 3$ fram c3 oil filter.
run an hour.. then change.
the detergents in the oil won't make 50ys worth of sludge immediatly move.. it will start disolving and suspending it though.
i've done as many as 5 oil changes in succession over a couple days and good warm / hot running on a dirty engine.
ie.. go mowing for a couple hours and come back.
I had a jd b that was so dirty.. the first 3 changes came back with oil that looked like it came out of a diesel.
4th was tinged but better.. and 5th was 'normal.
I called it good there.
ont he N.. the c3 is a 3$ filter.. and I'd change it with each change.
then go to a better napa 1010 or the bettter fram c3P.
if the engine IS real dirty. a multi step oil change program is the best of both worlds.
no worry about it dumping lots of gunk on a premium oil change while waiting till next year for the next change.
all good points mentioned by those helping here.
thus only lubes listed as mild ep are normally ok. that gives you the mineral gear oil 90w gl1 and even up to gl3. past that in the gl4/5 territory.. best to find one that says yellow metal safe and carrying an MT1 spec . many people carry one.. sometimes even walmart does.
on the ND oil.
i don't doubt that years of varnish might start coming off.
here's what i have done on any real dirty engine i have found.. whether i think it was ND oil.. or just years of neglect.
go buy a bulk container of CHEAP oil... cheap as you can get.. can be an old s rating.
do an oil change with 4qts of that and 1.5 qts of type f or dex/merc3 atf. and put in a cheapy 3$ fram c3 oil filter.
run an hour.. then change.
the detergents in the oil won't make 50ys worth of sludge immediatly move.. it will start disolving and suspending it though.
i've done as many as 5 oil changes in succession over a couple days and good warm / hot running on a dirty engine.
ie.. go mowing for a couple hours and come back.
I had a jd b that was so dirty.. the first 3 changes came back with oil that looked like it came out of a diesel.
4th was tinged but better.. and 5th was 'normal.
I called it good there.
ont he N.. the c3 is a 3$ filter.. and I'd change it with each change.
then go to a better napa 1010 or the bettter fram c3P.
if the engine IS real dirty. a multi step oil change program is the best of both worlds.
no worry about it dumping lots of gunk on a premium oil change while waiting till next year for the next change.
all good points mentioned by those helping here.