Pretty easy job... if you have the tools and a flat section of black top or cement to work on.
basically, you will take off all the "stuff" that is in the way of the engine / trans interface. That could be sheet metal, wiring, etc. You have a pretty simple machine, so there shouldn't be too awful much, but probably more than you imagine!
Then use a rolling jack to support the front of the trans. Use jack stands to support the engine / front half of the tractor. The front end may pivot side to side, and you may need to pound in wedges to pin it up straight. When the bolts are all undone, (carefully look / feel every inch of the flange for hiddent bolts on the top, bottom and edges! A buddy got mad at his being stuck and pried his apart by breaking the transmission housing! An expensive lesson) Then carefully roll the back half about 5'or more away so you can take off the pressure plate, clutch and flywheel if it needs surfacing. I nearly always take the flywheel off and us a DA to rough up the surface or have a shop surface it if it's grooved / checked. Clean everything up good.
Swap in new parts. Roll the back up to bolt it together. A tip is to get 5-6" long bolts that will go in holes on the side of the engine. Cut the heads off and round the stubs. Hand thread them in and use them as guides to aid in alignment. Don't force the pilot into the clutch. When it's aligned,it will go in easy. Make sure the trans is in N so the shaft can turn. Alignment is critical. Measure the side to side gap and the top to bottom gap. Adjust the jack and extra bottle jacks to get it good. You may have to back it off and rego to get it square if you pushed it back crooked.
Last tractor clutch was a ford 600 a few years back for a buddy that has physical limitations. It was about an 8 hour job over a weekend. I'd expect yours to be similar.