big ticket items, that more than likely make sense getting on same bill due to more likely bigger discounts...
tractor itself
FEL (front end loader)
CAB
3pt hitch backhoe / with subframe.
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then you have a little ADD-ON's that can really add up quickly....
some things that maybe more tractor specific / more likely requires dealer to install the stuff....
--larger alternator (if option) = for say 12V cable winch, to running extra lights, to possibly running 12V to 110V converter and maybe running a smaller size saw or water pump cheaply.
--rear hydrualics generally 1 bare min, though up to 3 suggested.
--TNT (top and tilt) replacing "top link" and a "side link" of the 3pt hitch with hydraulic cylinder. from mowing, to dirt work to other. being able to adjust on the fly can make things go much more faster. vs dealing with manual turn buckles. ((TNT requires 2 rear hyd remotes, 1 for each hyd cylinder)) generally suggested up to 3 rear remotes for TNT + 1 more for what ever comes up.
--3rd function FEL joystick / levers. if planning on a grapple. or front mounted snow blower, or power some tree saw off FEL. 3RD function joystick most likely wanted / needed. other wise not worth it.
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extra ADD-ONs, with a little bit of mechanical knowledge / eletrical knowledge fairly easy to do....
--high up front and rear work lights, make it on CAB, ROPS (roll bar), sun shade. having those lights makes a large difference. and being able to see what ya doing.
--tend to see alot of folks weld up a "grill guard" good for rotary cutter, and out in the woods.
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TIRES.
R1 / AG / agiructural tires = thinner pizza tires = traction
R3 / turf tires = grass tires think riding lawn mower tread.
R4 / industrial tires = R1 tires but wider = flotation.
PLY rating = lower # = cheaper, higher the ply rating the thicker / tougher the rubber of tire is.
filling rear tires...
--if you have a 12V eletrical sprayer (from atv, to pull behind to toss in truck bed type) you can DIY filling rear tires or not yourself.
--CALC = salt water basicly. and can rust rims, everything else out there is for most part all good.
--if doing FEL work you will want some sort of rear
ballast. filling rear tires can be a good thing. beyond a weight box on rear. a box blade can work within reason.
tire chains....
--pretty much world wide chains on road way = illegal. expect clear up north and very limited portion of the winter. so if playing to road / drive tractor down road = no chains
rear tires / rims....
--you can get a narrow width and a wider width on most tractor tire rims. most folks i tend to see here on TBN = wider width. due to hills, and wanting wider width to reduce chance of rolling tractor over. ((rims are adjustable or they flip side to side to just width))
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now a days.... it is pretty much all some sort of hydraulic transmission / hydrostatic or like transmission. and hardly any sort of "gear / manual transmission" seen on this forum and others. there is just to much advantage to multi purpose tractor in the SCUT / CUT tractor sizes. and the little HP difference lost due to hydraulic, most folks will never see. or less specifically doing nothing but pulling stuff in farm fields and like.
MFWD / 4x4 or like front drive assist setup....
--not sure if they even sell a 2WD tractor anymore. and will only assume nitch market out there of folks just wanting 2WD tractor.
--beyond traction, and getting yourself unstuck or less you really got into it. MFWD can help FEL work and digging into ground with a FEL.
--MFWD and like tractors have one big issue when it comes to replacing tires. and this is you might need to replace both front and rear tires at same time. due to wanting to keep correct ratio. between fronts and rear tires. if ratio is out of whack you could damage the drive train. (shafts / gears / etc...) hence replacing front / rears at same time.
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BRAKES
--split brakes for rear tires. = required, AND on opposite foot of the go / hydro static pedal / gas pedal, or what ever you want to call the pedal.
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brain dead.... the button on the floor. to lock rear wheels together. can be nice getting yourself unstuck. hardly ever use it. but when ya need it, it is there.
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3pt hitch.....
from notation of "box blade" and more so "rotary cutter"
make sure you pick up sway chains / check chains / bars for the 3pt hitch. normally these come as extra.
also see about getting a "swinging draw bar" it is the bar that attaches below the PTO shaft on rear end of tractor. and used for when you want to pull say a hay wagon, trailer, or like. do not get "swinging draw bar" confused with "draw bar" that attaches to ends of lower lift arms of 3pt hitch. while both are most likely wanted / needed. there is a difference.
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3pt hitch continued....most folks end up getting......
--pat's easy hitch
--or telescopic lower lift arms
--or some sort of "quick hitch" (normally upside down U shape, and then there are some triangle quick hitches out there as well))
it doesn't really matter what you get, just get one of them. they generally makes life easier connecting to 3pt hitch stuff.
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to state it.... any 3pt hitch equipment. from box blade to rotory cutter, to other... can be had 3rd party and most likely cheaper (within reason) or less some major discount going on. everything else noted above in this post on other hand. more likely... more tractor specific, and you just eat the price.
most manufacture websites have some sort of "tractor maker / configurator / builder" go through a few of their "option pages" and add things up to get rough idea of things.
