2002D fuel injection pump experiment

[California]

I wonder how they broke that piece of cast iron.

Maybe Bud (EFC)'s stories weren't a dramatization ...

Oops. Buck, not Bud. An importer who chose his own tractors in Japan, and long ago a frequent poster here. He occasionally commented - based on personal observation - on the kind of tractors that the VN rebuild shops bought in Japan.

 

[winston1]

Thanks for posting the 240 procedure

"Yanmar's procedure is a lot simpler than what I&T described"

No doubt about that, however, it is a struggle for me to see within 5 degrees following the Yanmar procedure. At the same time if I followed the I&T procedure I just wonder if it would be any more exacting.

Any definition of the abbreviations shown on the crankshaft pulley drawing. I understand T.D.C. but unsure about I.O., F.I., E.C., I.C., E.O.

 

[doxford jim]

F.I. - Fuel injection
I.O. - Inlet Open (valves)
E.O. - Exhaust Open
I.C. - Inlet Close
E.C. - Exhaust Close

 

[winston1]

F.I. - Fuel injection
I.O. - Inlet Open (valves)
E.O. - Exhaust Open
I.C. - Inlet Close
E.C. - Exhaust Close

Thanks, would have never figured it out.

 

[R Barger]

Winston, I have a question for you. The part that screws into the pump that the injection line attaches to does it use an oring or a copper washer? My 336d is leaking slightly at that location.

 

[winston1]

o-ring 124550-51370

 

[R Barger]

I might be lucky and have the right ones in one of my 2 o-ring asst. Thanks for the info

 

[winston1]

Mr. Barger, wonder if you would share with me where your temperature gauge runs on your 2002D on a mid 90 degree day and pulling a heavy load?

One more update. Some of you old timers probably remember the old points, plugs, ignition systems. Remember when you set the timing on these vehicles if you got it a little fast how they would ping or have an ignition knock. Well, after my last put together it seemed to me I had a similiar sound just as the engine fired up. Just sort of sounded like pre ignition. Anyway, I decided to make another effort to pin point my timing. I rigged up a clear hose and long enough to reach right down to where the timing mark is located. Also rigged up a temporary pointer right next to the crankshaft pulley so I could be more exact when 21 degrees was taking place. I determined I was just a tad, maybe a 1/4" early, so I installed a .010" shim under the pump and I am now as close to 21 degrees as I can be. It did take away the ignition knock so I feel good about it. Took a couple of pictures showing my tube and temporary pointer.

 

[R Barger]

Winston, It stays at the midrange. I only remember 1 time when I was pulling a 12 single bottom plow for an extended time it rose a little above that.The only complaint I have is it starts to fast.The first piston that comes up it fires. Don't give the oil time to get to the bearings. I've had it over ten years with no repairs. It has 1200hrs on it. I bought it from Fredricks.

 

[winston1]

Thanks for the feed back. Mine cranks just as fast. Use your compression release to allow it to spin until oil light goes off, push it in and bang. Only takes 2 or 3 seconds. Mine has over 3300 hours.