2011 GT2000 Leaking transmission fluid after transport.

[90Moneypit]

Hello,
So, after shipping my cub from Washington state to Texas where it sat in bonded storage while we sold the old house and bought a new one here in Texas (Nov-July), I now have a leak in the transmission! I performed a oil, oil filter, air filter, fuel filter, trans fluid and filter change at 100 hours (now 110 hours, low hours for a 12 year old machine, I know!), and it drove onto the shipping truck but they PUSHED IT OFF into my shop! I thought they must have engaged the bypass since it pushed but that is not the case. The carb was a little gummed up and the battery a little weak but after a little clean and charge it fired right up. I go around to disengage the bypass and see that they did NOT disengage and I now have a puddle of Cub Driveline Plus under the rear end... it's dripping off the drain plug which was just slightly under torque spec but after retightening the drain plug, it's still dripping off overnight. A quick check did show movement fwd and rev but I didnt want to risk damging anything more than it possibly already is. Before I go gorilla with tightening the drain plug or filing a claim with the shipper, is there anything I can check or do aside from loading it up and driving to a service center? It's barely registering on the dipstick so it's more than a temp and altitude change.

 

[CobyRupert]

It’s dripping off the drain plug, but where is it escaping from?
Was it dripping out the threads? Does the plug need a washer?
Or is it something bad, like they cracked the housing? I’ve heard of hydro’s blowing seals if towed and the transmission hasn’t been released.

I’d want to pin point exactly where the oil is coming out.

 

[90Moneypit]

Took another good look at it and video around the area and aside from a little side to side from the drain, I don't see anything wet. Gave the drain plug 'a little more' snug but it does not make sense for it to have been stored for 7 months without leaking if i hadn't tightened it up properly last September! Gave it another few shots of parts cleaner and another wipe down just now and I'll try to get back out to the shop in an hour to see if I can pinpoint exactly where it's starting if it isn't the plug (which it never should have been in the first place!) No crush washer that I can recall or find on a parts diagram either. The bypass valve is forward towards the input side. Anyone know exactly where the vent is that releases the air when you 'bleed the system' after a diff fluid change? Since it moved under power, I'm reallllly hoping that it's pushing fluid out there and it's just making a path that I don't readily see.

 

[90Moneypit]

Yes, it's dirty and I'm a bad tractor-daddy for not giving her a proper bath after the last mow and pre-storage. All I had time for was a quick leaf blower clean before they loaded it up. These are one day after the first parts cleaner and wipe down yesterday.

 

[90Moneypit]

So, maybe the drain plug did finally work it's way out on the trip from local storage to my house. After the 'super snug' last night, this morning all seemed good other than low levels. Put around a half qt in and ran a purge sequence, little foamy. Ran another 2 sequence and it seems to be staying bubble free and in the middle of the ADD-FULL range. How concerned should I be that it will still roll forward (but not backwards) in the operating and not bypass mode? Despite the heat, this grass still seems to be growing and needs some attention before I need to break out a brush hog instead! Yeah, the Ford Jubilee is next on the list of things needing attention but the rear acreage can wait while the front acreage 'yard' is under the wife's eyes.