Yes I cringe every time I hear someone using WD as a lubricant. Use a real lubricant. A real good anti-seize to loosen it up then something more substantial after that.
2210 hydro pedals sticking=YIKES!
- Thread starter megotatractor
- Start date
Yes I cringe every time I hear someone using WD as a lubricant. Use a real lubricant. A real good anti-seize to loosen it up then something more substantial after that.
OP
megotatractor
Veteran Member
This is the first I've heard that WD40 is crap, but I recognize it's a poor band-aid solution. What do you recommend?
John in the UP
Bronze Member
- Joined
- Jun 10, 2008
- Messages
- 51
- Location
- Michigan's Upper Peninsula
- Tractor
- 2021 John Deere 4066R Snow Cab
A couple of years ago after working in very dusty conditions, the joystick control on my 3320 was sticking. I used some spray lube on it which helped, for a short time.
When I got the tractor home, I removed the seat and plastic cover that conceals all the controls. I used brake cleaner to get the dirt, gum and old lube off of the linkages. Then I sprayed Remington Dry-Lube on every joint of the joystick control.
We used to shoot competitively (i.e. lots of rounds thru the weapon in a year) and the dry lube greatly minimized the number of jams that can occur as almost nothing sticks to it. As far as the joystick control is concerned, so far, so good.
-John
When I got the tractor home, I removed the seat and plastic cover that conceals all the controls. I used brake cleaner to get the dirt, gum and old lube off of the linkages. Then I sprayed Remington Dry-Lube on every joint of the joystick control.
We used to shoot competitively (i.e. lots of rounds thru the weapon in a year) and the dry lube greatly minimized the number of jams that can occur as almost nothing sticks to it. As far as the joystick control is concerned, so far, so good.
-John
Not crap just not a lubricant. WD40 is a water dispersant and it is great for that but for a lubricant it sucks. After the slipperier agents dry off you are left with a sticky film.
Use a high quality penetrating oil to free it up then a good oil or light grease.:thumbsup:
Dmac1
Member
I bought some CLP Break Free as a lube for our guns. Haven't used it yet, but it sounds like it would be perfect for getting those bearings moving.
Break-Free - Products: Break-Free CLP
Have any of you guys used it?
Dave
Break-Free - Products: Break-Free CLP
Have any of you guys used it?
Dave
k0ua
Epic Contributor
I second the Fluid Film for anything on a tractor. They used to give you a small can for free so you could try it. Thats how I got "hooked" been buying it ever since.
Fluid Film? | Corrosion Preventative, Lubricant and Rust Inhibitor
James K0UA
Fluid Film? | Corrosion Preventative, Lubricant and Rust Inhibitor
James K0UA
Dmac1
Member
Sounds like they sell it at JD dealers. Doesn't look like they still give free samples
. Sounds like its focus is corrosion prevention. Do you use it as a spray lube? Does it collect dirt like many other spray lubes?
OP
megotatractor
Veteran Member
PROBLEM RESOLVED!
I mowed the yard and got fed up with the sticky pedals. I removed the mower deck and after disconnecting the link to the tranny and removed the damper I localized the sticking to the pedal assembly. This is a heavy bracket containing the pedals and a rube goldberg assortment of rocker shafts, ball bearings, links, and levers. Once I removed this assembly it was apparent that none of the ball bearing were at fault, BUT there were two brackets-one directly connected to the forward pedal and one that connects indirectly to the brake pedal- that were mounted in bushing type bearings which were...
STICKY!
Removed those levers and greased the bushings and put her back together. The pedals (without the damper) sprang back to center! Put the damper in and the test drive revealed a well behaved tractor which stops quickly when the pedals are released!
Thanks for the suggestion on lubes, I hadn't heard of those.
I mowed the yard and got fed up with the sticky pedals. I removed the mower deck and after disconnecting the link to the tranny and removed the damper I localized the sticking to the pedal assembly. This is a heavy bracket containing the pedals and a rube goldberg assortment of rocker shafts, ball bearings, links, and levers. Once I removed this assembly it was apparent that none of the ball bearing were at fault, BUT there were two brackets-one directly connected to the forward pedal and one that connects indirectly to the brake pedal- that were mounted in bushing type bearings which were...
STICKY!
Removed those levers and greased the bushings and put her back together. The pedals (without the damper) sprang back to center! Put the damper in and the test drive revealed a well behaved tractor which stops quickly when the pedals are released!
Thanks for the suggestion on lubes, I hadn't heard of those.
k0ua
Epic Contributor
Sounds like they sell it at JD dealers. Doesn't look like they still give free samples
I have been using it for a while on my tractor, and garage door doesnt seem to to attract dirt, and works good as a lube.
James K0UA
I know this is old, but thanks for that link to learn about the dashpot.
JD wants like $210 now for these little shock. # AM115862
It really a little storm door closer with a spring inside.
I wonder if they do actually have fluid inside them new or it is just air?
Mine does not work so well but I see no sign of leakage inside the boot or anywhere.