2810 Fuel cutoff solenoid

[jgreen]

Hi Folks,

I have a 2004 year and model 2810 that the fuel cutoff solenoid is burned up. First one died/burned up three months ago, replaced with aftermarket solenoid and this past Saturday the replacement burned up. I have the manuals and they do not give a lot of diagnoses and the wiring diagrams are next to useless. What I have done so far: Checked fuel cutoff timer, with key in run position, high/battery voltage for appx. .5 to 1 second to activate pull in coil on fuel solenoid,then 0 volts, appears to be working as designed. Hold in coil circuit maintains voltage to the hold coil. Plan to borrow a inductive amp probe and read amps from relay this week. Fuel solenoid relay (70 amps) appears to be working at this time, unsure if contacts stuck closed and caused excessive time/amperage to fuel solenoid. I found a relay and plan on replacing asap (cheap insurance), but would not like to buy many more of the fuel cutoff solenoids as they are $$$$. Great tractor so far and was just bragging a week ago how it has given very little issues and great performance. Any other ideas or better diagnosis or wiring information would be a help! Any ideas on suppliers for fuel cutoff solenoid?

Thanks,

 

[Mr Bitz]

Not sure if this helps but thought I would send it. Of course a pull shut off would be an option if your up to doing that.. It would be a cheap full proof way to go..

 

[k0ua]

Hi Folks,

I have a 2004 year and model 2810 that the fuel cutoff solenoid is burned up. First one died/burned up three months ago, replaced with aftermarket solenoid and this past Saturday the replacement burned up. I have the manuals and they do not give a lot of diagnoses and the wiring diagrams are next to useless. What I have done so far: Checked fuel cutoff timer, with key in run position, high/battery voltage for appx. .5 to 1 second to activate pull in coil on fuel solenoid,then 0 volts, appears to be working as designed. Hold in coil circuit maintains voltage to the hold coil. Plan to borrow a inductive amp probe and read amps from relay this week. Fuel solenoid relay (70 amps) appears to be working at this time, unsure if contacts stuck closed and caused excessive time/amperage to fuel solenoid. I found a relay and plan on replacing asap (cheap insurance), but would not like to buy many more of the fuel cutoff solenoids as they are $$$$. Great tractor so far and was just bragging a week ago how it has given very little issues and great performance. Any other ideas or better diagnosis or wiring information would be a help! Any ideas on suppliers for fuel cutoff solenoid?

Thanks,

I think you are on the right track with the sticking relay contacts on the fuel relay. What else could have burned up the fuel solenoid but the fact that the pull in coil was energized. If the timer circuitry seems to be energizing the fuel relay coil the correct (small) amount of time, then the most likely thing is the fuel relay coil contacts sticking.

 

[Paul1940]

I am having a problem starting the 2810.When I turn the key to the ON position, I don"t appear to be getting any power to anything. No fuel level indication, no glow plug indicator, etc. the 7- amp relay energizes but that is it. Motor turns over but does not start. Stop selenoid near FI pump does not appear to be energized. what is the position of this selenoid whe attempting to start the engine?

 

[Mr Bitz]

Another item to check would be the ignition switch itself. Are there any wires that could be bad or shorting out or solder broken. Just a thought.

Sent from my XT1650 using TractorByNet mobile app

 

[Ace Ford]

OK, I'm now if this boat also. My ignition switch has gone nuts--still works to crank, but once cranked gauges work, stop working, battery light comes on, goes off and gauges start working again, ad infinitum. So, a new switch is on the way. My question goes to the fuel shut off solenoid. It was completely cooked, probably by the weirdness in the ignition switch. So, I bought an aftermarket that also started cooking, so I yanked it and am just using a pull cable for the time being. Does anyone know what amperage the fuel shut off solenoid should be?

Ace

 

[sallyb]

OK, I'm now if this boat also. My ignition switch has gone nuts--still works to crank, but once cranked gauges work, stop working, battery light comes on, goes off and gauges start working again, ad infinitum. So, a new switch is on the way. My question goes to the fuel shut off solenoid. It was completely cooked, probably by the weirdness in the ignition switch. So, I bought an aftermarket that also started cooking, so I yanked it and am just using a pull cable for the time being. Does anyone know what amperage the fuel shut off solenoid should be?

Ace

I don't know amps but it is 12 volts

 

[Zork]

OK, I'm now if this boat also. My ignition switch has gone nuts--still works to crank, but once cranked gauges work, stop working, battery light comes on, goes off and gauges start working again, ad infinitum. So, a new switch is on the way. My question goes to the fuel shut off solenoid. It was completely cooked, probably by the weirdness in the ignition switch. So, I bought an aftermarket that also started cooking, so I yanked it and am just using a pull cable for the time being. Does anyone know what amperage the fuel shut off solenoid should be?

Ace

Does it not indicate this info on the solenoid? I think the solenoid strokes the lever with power on, so if your other relay is rated at 7 amperes I would think the fuel cut off solenoid would draw no more than 80% of the relay max current. One might think no more than 5.6 amperes. I don't know what we have. But the talk is there could be timers, dual wire/coils and hold/locking devices. High current strokes it, timer or stroke initiates low current hold and de-energizes high current stroke so it doesn't burn up. Key off de-energizes hold and spring pressure closes lever/valve. I'll try to find my manual to check her diaphragm.

 

[Zork]

My solenoid has 3 wires, W, Blk, R

 

[Zork]

So mine is a dual coil solenoid.
It uses two separate coil windings to allow the solenoid to be held energized for long periods of time without overheating. The first wound coil (pull coil) operates at a high current level to provide maximum pull or push. The second wound coil (hold coil) holds the plunger in place after it has completed its stroke.

[The above diagram is for general purposes. None of this information was taken from my Branson manual]

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