I had to remove the rock shaft and everything on it including the end plates. When I reassembled everything, I didn't pay particular attention to the position of the end plates. Consequently, the lift arms were totally dead - wouldn't move up or down until I rotated the left end plate to it's original position (based on a pic that was taken earlier), the arms would lift, but not lower. The stop valve in full open had no effect on the lift arms. When I carelessly removed the hydraulic line with the stop valve rod and holding nut off, the cylinder pressure was released through the valve opening - causing the valve inner parts to shoot out. The ball and spring were lost, so I just put the holding nut, rod, and knob back without the missing parts. The arms will now raise and lower in what I assume is a full valve open state.. Of course, I have no stop valve functionality, but I don't think that I've ever used it in the 12 years that I've had the tractor.
3-Point Hitch 3-point Hydraulic cylinder has flow by
- Thread starter Ben755
- Start date
What a bummer. I believe that valve also controls the drop speed on the FX28D. I would think Hoye would have the ball and spring. The parts manual for the FX24D doesn't show a ball and spring on the stop valve assembly. Interesting?
Funny thing about the ball and spring, I was wondering also. Hoye gave me the breakout drawing for the FX28D in the pic below showing nos. 16,8,17, and 9. I only found 9 which show 2 o-rings, not just one (17). Also, I'm wondering if the orientation of no. 9 should be rotated 180 deg.
I have no scanning ability or I would scan the FX24D for you. Your #9 part in the manual is #13 in the FX24D manual and there are two o-rings labeled #17. It is showing the o-ring end going out toward the handle. The picture also looks identical to your camera picture. I am sort of questioning you having the ball and spring. Do you know you lost it or just going by the provided drawing? :confused3:
clemsonfor
Super Member
I was going to ask is there weight on the 3pt as Winston said. The new Oring fits snug and the weight of the arms may not be enough to force it down on its own.
clemsonfor
Super Member
When I was messing with my valve I will tell you all the parts have to be the right way, I had one 180 degrees wrong and it made a difference although it worked the wrong way it would let the 3pt drop fast when shut off.
After finishing the piston seal and other o-ring replacements, as I mentioned earlier, the arms raised, but would not lower. I also thought that the new seal was just creating a snug fit in the cylinder and causing the the arms without load to not lower. However, after adding a board with 6 bags of concrete to the lift arms which didn't move it at all, I realized that I had a problem. After removing the hydraulic pressure line that connects to the housing face plate and releasing the cylinder pressure, the arms would raise and lower. But, in the process, the lock valve ball, spring, and an o ring were lost (the lock valve nut and stem had been removed). I'm now just trying to get the lost parts and assembled in the correct order. Still curious about o-ring (no. 17). No. 9 has 2 o-rings, not one. Could this be a separate o-ring ?