3 PT stump grinder

[Jcarr]

I too bought one from Iowa Farm Equipment, who are good people to do business with. I had some pretty big (3' plus) cedar stumps to grind. These things are hard and full of dirt in the core. The trick is aiming the grinder. It really helps to have a spotter. The swing of the unit will often not cover the area of a large stump so you need to learn to make all of the "missed" areas on the same side of the cut unless you just like repositioning the tractor. Also, don't try to take too much at once. My experience is not to engage more than 1/5 to 1/4 of the cutter outside diameter at once. Therefore you must take down the stump in layers. My tractor's listed weight is about two tons plus the rear tires are filled with water. I jam the FEL down firmly and set the brake before grinding. Shaking was minimal.
Also, the unit is furnished with a 1' floppy hydraulic hose that connects the regulator of the horizontal swing line with the return. Called Worksaver and found that the length wasn't part of a dampening scheme so I replaced it with a brass pipe that I threaded through the empty large diameter hole just over the cat 1 center attachment point. Makes for a neat installation!
This things works great and doesn't tear up the landscape like a dozer or backhoe. Just pile all the chips and dirt back into the hole and it is gone in about six month as the dirt is washed down out of the chips. After the six months is past, I just run over the mounds with my Rhino SE 6 shredder and viola, all is gone!

 

[foggy1111]

I too bought one from Iowa Farm Equipment, who are good people to do business with. I had some pretty big (3' plus) cedar stumps to grind. These things are hard and full of dirt in the core. The trick is aiming the grinder. It really helps to have a spotter. The swing of the unit will often not cover the area of a large stump so you need to learn to make all of the "missed" areas on the same side of the cut unless you just like repositioning the tractor. Also, don't try to take too much at once. My experience is not to engage more than 1/5 to 1/4 of the cutter outside diameter at once. Therefore you must take down the stump in layers. My tractor's listed weight is about two tons plus the rear tires are filled with water. I jam the FEL down firmly and set the brake before grinding. Shaking was minimal.
Also, the unit is furnished with a 1' floppy hydraulic hose that connects the regulator of the horizontal swing line with the return. Called Worksaver and found that the length wasn't part of a dampening scheme so I replaced it with a brass pipe that I threaded through the empty large diameter hole just over the cat 1 center attachment point. Makes for a neat installation!
This things works great and doesn't tear up the landscape like a dozer or backhoe. Just pile all the chips and dirt back into the hole and it is gone in about six month as the dirt is washed down out of the chips. After the six months is past, I just run over the mounds with my Rhino SE 6 shredder and viola, all is gone!

I'm going to look into the suggested grinder. What kind of tractor do you have it on??

FWIW....I have rented a vermeer 252 and a Rayco 25 hp grinder to take out over 600 stumps thus far. It's allot of work at the end of the day...but I pay $150 plus gas and get up to 200 stumps a day ground. Granted they are pine stumps (10 to 16") but I have been relatively happy with a grinder. I figure my cost per stump to be about $1.25.....which aint too shabby.

 

[Boeing]

How DEEP can a stump grinder go? I need to cut a path thru about 250' of 6" pines to run a water pipe and elect line to a well. I guess 14" deep should do it????? I have a 30HP 4wd tractor with pto. The local dozer contractor wanted $600 to doze an 8' wide path....really didn't want to go this wide or spend this much money doing it. Ideas and suggestions sure would help....what to rent or buy.....???? needing some water soon....
Thanks

 

[Treemonkey1000]

Most stump grinders won't go 14". You could use a trencher for that. They can tear up roots and smaller rock. That is what they are made for laying water and power lines

 

[J_J]

Have you considered something like this.

http://www.youtube.com/v/jIeEc8sFhI...xd0d0d0&hl=en_US&feature=player_embedded&fs=1

 

[foggy1111]

How DEEP can a stump grinder go? I need to cut a path thru about 250' of 6" pines to run a water pipe and elect line to a well. I guess 14" deep should do it????? I have a 30HP 4wd tractor with pto. The local dozer contractor wanted $600 to doze an 8' wide path....really didn't want to go this wide or spend this much money doing it. Ideas and suggestions sure would help....what to rent or buy.....???? needing some water soon....
Thanks

A stump grinder will typically dig to about 8 or 10 inches. Are you looking to get rid of stumps or dig a trench for you water line? It is NOT a trencher.

Seems to me you have two different needs here. One to clear a path through the pines (chain saw and stump grinder or dozer) and another to lay the water line.....no? There are trenching machines or plows to lay waterlines (like JJ's example above). Check your local machine rental yards if you just have a one-time need.....or check with plumbing contractor that installs water lines.

 

[Boeing]

Thanks guys, you're right, I DO have two issues. Clearing a narrow path thru the pines THEN trenching a water/elect line up this path. I was hoping I could do all this with my tractor and save some money. It appears that I can saw/haul the pines out and wait a year for the ground level stumps to rot then hire someone to trench (can they go thru the remaining root/ex-stumps?) OR, pay the dozer guy to push a WIDER path thru the woods and go back to the trencher with no roots/ex-stumps. Both options expensive. bummer.

 

[Reg]

How DEEP can a stump grinder go? I need to cut a path thru about 250' of 6" pines to run a water pipe and elect line to a well. I guess 14" deep should do it????? I have a 30HP 4wd tractor with pto. The local dozer contractor wanted $600 to doze an 8' wide path....really didn't want to go this wide or spend this much money doing it. Ideas and suggestions sure would help....what to rent or buy.....???? needing some water soon....
Thanks

According to the sales blurb and owner's manual my Woods TSG-50 will grind up to 16 inches below grade - and 16 inches above, though - well, different question.
I suppose I could aim it straight back in line with the tractor's center line, adjust the top link and do a plunge cut into the soil, but it would spit rocks out the back for sure.
BTW, it is meant to be lowered onto the ground when actually cutting, not held up on the 3 pt.

I think you MIGHT be better off to at least TRY a sub soiler.
Cheap and deep if nothing else (-:
Do a trial run with it and see if your tractor has enough weight to get the traction that it would need to pull through whatever little roots you have.
I have "discovered" buried water pipe and severed quite a few fair sized roots with mine.
If you get through you can rig some chain to the bottom of it and pull your water pipe through on a subsequent pass without having to actually open the ground up, bury pipe and refill.
Just roll your tractor's tire over the slit to close it - done.

EDIT:
As I recall pines don't have much root beyond the drip line, yes there are surface roots, but they are fairly small and if the trunks are only 6 inches even half way into the trunk from the drip line shouldn't present a big problem for a sub soiler - IMAO, etc.
My guess is that if you can get the tractor through (5 ft wide, small tractor ?) you will be out far enough from the trunks to not get stopped by roots.
Rocks ? Maybe, in fact around here rocks spoil just about every project like this (-:
:END EDIT

 

[foggy1111]

Reg, I recently bought the same TSG-50 Woods Stump grinder as you have. I got laid up this fall so I couldn't use it much....except to try it out after I got my hydraulics hooked up.

Curious about your experience with the grinder Reg. I have my grinder hooked to my loader's joystick valve (via quick couplers) for operation from the tractor seat....and all seems to operate pretty smoothly....but I was unable to get much operating experience this fall.

The main issue I wonder about is how you feel about the visibility while from the seat? Does the limited visibility become an issue for you? I have considered rigging a low-price back-up camera to get a better look at the cutting operation (Mart has one for $50.)

Also, have you had to replace any teeth? Affordable source for teeth?

Looking forward to attacking lots of stumps in the spring. :thumbsup:

 

[Reg]

Reg, I recently bought the same TSG-50 Woods Stump grinder as you have. I got laid up this fall so I couldn't use it much....except to try it out after I got my hydraulics hooked up.

Curious about your experience with the grinder Reg. I have my grinder hooked to my loader's joystick valve (via quick couplers) for operation from the tractor seat....and all seems to operate pretty smoothly....but I was unable to get much operating experience this fall.

The main issue I wonder about is how you feel about the visibility while from the seat? Does the limited visibility become an issue for you? I have considered rigging a low-price back-up camera to get a better look at the cutting operation (Mart has one for $50.)

Also, have you had to replace any teeth? Affordable source for teeth?

Looking forward to attacking lots of stumps in the spring. :thumbsup:

I haven't USED mine yet - tragic, I know (-:
I hope to use mine on a tractor that has a set of 4 remotes mounted on the right side of the ROPS post.
These are so much higher than the regular back of the tractor position that the hoses were pulled TIGHT and I didn't want to risk pulling one apart.
So I ordered up a set of 7ft ones from Surplus Center and that all looks good.

Rewind to where I said hydraulic outlets are on the right side of the ROPS;
This is same side as 3pt position and draft controls, so when I am hooking up I can lean in and lift/lower the lift arms or extend/shorten the hydraulic top link.
OK, fast forward again.

I expect to do most of my grinding standing to the right of the tractor's right rear wheel.
I expect a lot of bumpin' an' jumpin' so I don't want to be in the seat.
Beside should put me in a good position to see what is going on without being in the line of fire for any rocks that get spat out.
BTW, I am already thinking of extending the rubber flap debris shield.
It is about 1/4 inch thick, similar to conveyor belt, I will probably back it up with some 3/4 inch rubber horse stall mat that extends a few inches out and sideways.

Teeth ?
Obviously I haven't broken any YET !
I think I have a lead on some for around $15 a piece, full set lists for $600+ MSRP,
I should know more in a couple of days.

Hey, here's a tip I picked up;
Supposedly the cutter wheel is symmetrical/reversible.
IOW you can take the two halves apart and switch them (without flipping them) so that (what were) their outside faces become inside faces.
It might take a lot of stumps to wear them enough to need that, but it could be a good thing to do if/when you have to replace a set of teeth.
Come to think of it (& I rarely do) soil IS abrasive.
PLUS we have ROCKS here, so a wheel could wear quite quickly (-: