3 rail fence

   / 3 rail fence #11  
The yellow lab I had, quickly figured out that if he ran fast, and jumped high at the last second, that the shock from the collar was minimal.
:laughing::laughing::laughing:
 
   / 3 rail fence #12  
Bear in mind that to replace a rail you have to remove a half post each end and that those half posts are going to be sunk into the ground. Is it worth the extra work?
 
   / 3 rail fence #13  
I would not use oak for the posts. Go with pressure treated 4x4 or half round fence posts. The previous owner of our place used the oak boards as rails in the fence in 1994 and it is still solid. I need to paint it again but that is always something that needs to be done on any board fence. Rick
 
   / 3 rail fence
  • Thread Starter
#14  
Well I this morning I started marking out where the posts are going. Standing back and looking at it, 8ft rails look like they might be too short. What is the typicall rail length for a post and rail fence, 8ft, 10ft, 12ft???

If I went longer, I might use 2x6 instead of 1x6. Definitely nee some help here.
 
   / 3 rail fence #15  
Well I this morning I started marking out where the posts are going. Standing back and looking at it, 8ft rails look like they might be too short. What is the typicall rail length for a post and rail fence, 8ft, 10ft, 12ft???

If I went longer, I might use 2x6 instead of 1x6. Definitely nee some help here.

A rancher not to far from here uses 20' rails with 3 posts for his corals... roughly 6.5' on center and he said it gives a little wiggle room on spacing... only added 2 extra posts on each of his runs.
 
   / 3 rail fence #16  
8 foot or a tad under to the center of the post is common. An inch or 2 less then eight feet in case you have any split ends on the board that you want to cut off. It also give you wiggle room if a post is not perfectly straight. Easier to cut off an inch then to stretch the board an inch.
 
 
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