3000 Series A/C Issues

   / 3000 Series A/C Issues #11  
I've got a 3720 cab and the A/C works fine. I actually think the heat doesn't crank out as much as it should (not that I mind, I like it cool in the winter).

I haven't had too many 95 degree days but here in New England I've had many in the 90's last summer and maybe one so far this summer and a lot in the high 80's with high humidity. No problems. Last few times I've used it I've only had the fan on low with the temp setting on the lowest.

Has anyone checked the temp valve? I once had mine on low (high temp) and it didn't really cool at all. I suppose if that was stuck or malfunctioning.
 
   / 3000 Series A/C Issues #12  
I will guarantee that you have gaps in your roof seal. This is a well know problem and if your dealer can't run a DTAC and recognize the symptoms then you need a new dealer. After the fix was made on mine the A/C will make you put a jacket on in 90 degree weather.
 
   / 3000 Series A/C Issues
  • Thread Starter
#13  
I have forwarded all of the things for my dealer to check. Hopefully, when I get back from vacation I will have a cold cab and be proud to own a JD again!

Thanks guys, I'll give an update when I get the unit back.
 
   / 3000 Series A/C Issues #14  
Does your tractor have a sight glass on top of the accumulator? If so look for bubbles going through it. You shouldn't be able to see anything at all. It's common to be undercharged from the factory thee days I've noticed. You wouldn't believe how many new cars and tractors I've had to top off with refrigerant lately. Maybe it's an altitude thing. I don't know. It doesn't take much to effect a 134A system at all.

My new tractor was almost a full pound of 134 low when I got it.

Also, I haven't seen a tractor dealer with a good AC tech yet. I really haven't met another one in a car dealer yet either. I'm sure glad I work on these myself.
the old R12 systems were so nice, they could be slightly over or undercharged, have a little air in the system or whatever and still work good.

Just the smallest amount of air in there on an R134 A system and it's not going to work.

I'm almost willing to bet your mechanics either don't own a recovery machine or probably even a decent vacuume pump. I see a lot of those cheap air powered ones in other guys tool boxes. They are worthless. You're lucky to pull 20 or so inches of vaccume with one. You need one capable of at least 28 to do it right.
I wish you were closer, I'd fix it right for you a whole lot cheaper than any dealer could.
 
   / 3000 Series A/C Issues
  • Thread Starter
#15  
I was a little concerned about finding a good AC tech working at a tractor dealer. The service manager got a little hot when I told him I spoke to another service tech at another JD dealer. But then he is the one that sent me home with it saying thats how it is designed to work.
 
   / 3000 Series A/C Issues #16  
turbo36 said:
I will guarantee that you have gaps in your roof seal. This is a well know problem and if your dealer can't run a DTAC and recognize the symptoms then you need a new dealer. After the fix was made on mine the A/C will make you put a jacket on in 90 degree weather.

I agree. In fact when my dealer has had the roof off mine he put a new foam seal on the edge. I think he said there is a service bulletin on this. If it is sealed tight it is very cool inside. Great to mow in the 80 to 90 degree heat.
 
   / 3000 Series A/C Issues #17  
Agree, pretty cold on very hot days, so far for me.
 
   / 3000 Series A/C Issues
  • Thread Starter
#18  
Picked up the tractor today and not much change, if any. I tried it for about an hour at 3PM with temperature outside at 96. The air coming out of the vent was able to get down to 77. For the most part it was 78 to 80 degrees.

Dealer said they put almost 40 hours of work into it, the rep told them to replace the compresssor which they did, they said the resealed the top and replaced the expansion valve and tried everything they could think of.

Where to I go from here?
 
   / 3000 Series A/C Issues #19  
Silver_Knight said:
Picked up the tractor today and not much change, if any. I tried it for about an hour at 3PM with temperature outside at 96. The air coming out of the vent was able to get down to 77. For the most part it was 78 to 80 degrees.

Dealer said they put almost 40 hours of work into it, the rep told them to replace the compresssor which they did, they said the resealed the top and replaced the expansion valve and tried everything they could think of.

Where to I go from here?


Well the "ole" catch 22. Contact John Deere and they will advise you to contact the dealer. I would suggest going to another dealer and trying another tractor like yours on a hot day. This would give you a reference point. I would then by pass the service department and talk to the manager/owner and explain to him that your unit is not performing like other units and ask that it be corrected.
 
   / 3000 Series A/C Issues #20  
Have you tried putting a shut off valve in the heater hose line going to the cab? I installed one on mine. It will shut off any hot water circulating thru the air box on the cab. Got mine at auto parts store for 5/8" line. There is an inline splice on the heater hose at the base of the cab on the left/step side. Clamp off the heater hose with vise grip and remove the splice to insert the valve. I just purchased a 125 hp Case-IH maxuum 125 Pro tractor. They have a shut off valve in the heater hose to the cab. They recommend turning it off to get maxiumum cab cooling. Maybe some hot water is still circulating thru the heater core, even if the valve in the cab is shut off. This maybe a real easy fix for your problem. You could just try clamping off the hose first and then running tractor to see if any difference.
Don't expect to get cold air immediately like a car a/c. The air in the box needs to be cooled before you will notice a decrease in the cab air temp.

Also, try placing a sheet of plastic wrap over the rear cab air filter. It should be getting sucked into the filter. If not, there is a leak in the air box. Make sure your deicer but is turned on in the cab. In the on, "l" position, it seems to cool better.
 
 
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