300CX/The sting of Chinese tools...

[browns40]

Didn't know where was best to post this, but figured since I was working on the 300CX, this would do...

Another poster had mentioned how difficult their 300CX was to take off of their machine... I found the same (although I had torqued down the cap screws pretty firmly), but was not surprised...

Backing up the cap screws was HARD--I'll admit, those zerks underneath were ones I'd hit only every 20 hours or so, but...

Getting on track: after twisting the heads off of one 3" extension, cracking the female end of the 8" extension (1/2 inch drive), then moving on up to the 3/4 drive breaker bar (then immediately shearing the head off of the 3/4-->1/2 inch adapter) backing these stays out so I could clean them up (hoping to put the quick back to quick attach), I resolve this:

I will NEVER buy tools, or any load/stress bearing fasteners/pins made of Chinese "steel" (if that was what was actually in these!) again! A guy could get hurt pretty bad when these high-torque maneuvers let go all of a sudden--fortunately for me, I suspected it might happen when it started taking some "oomph" & kept the action away frow the tractor when pushing.

No guarantee American/Canadian steel wouldn't do the same, but at least I'd know where to take it in!

Anyhow--300 loader owners--get those threads protected right off the bat on those stays & watch putting too much strain on your set screws when you back the pins up to the mast: removing them is tricky!

I'll be checking on a new set, and a tap to get those threads cleaned up!

 

[Nuru]

Didn't know where was best to post this, but figured since I was working on the 300CX, this would do...

Another poster had mentioned how difficult their 300CX was to take off of their machine... I found the same (although I had torqued down the cap screws pretty firmly), but was not surprised...

Backing up the cap screws was HARD--I'll admit, those zerks underneath were ones I'd hit only every 20 hours or so, but...

Getting on track: after twisting the heads off of one 3" extension, cracking the female end of the 8" extension (1/2 inch drive), then moving on up to the 3/4 drive breaker bar (then immediately shearing the head off of the 3/4-->1/2 inch adapter) backing these stays out so I could clean them up (hoping to put the quick back to quick attach), I resolve this:

I will NEVER buy tools, or any load/stress bearing fasteners/pins made of Chinese "steel" (if that was what was actually in these!) again! A guy could get hurt pretty bad when these high-torque maneuvers let go all of a sudden--fortunately for me, I suspected it might happen when it started taking some "oomph" & kept the action away frow the tractor when pushing.

No guarantee American/Canadian steel wouldn't do the same, but at least I'd know where to take it in!

Anyhow--300 loader owners--get those threads protected right off the bat on those stays & watch putting too much strain on your set screws when you back the pins up to the mast: removing them is tricky!

I'll be checking on a new set, and a tap to get those threads cleaned up!

Yeah once the Chinese went to severe mass production the tools keep gettng worse and worse. I have been going back to get craftsman from Sears for any serious tools

 

[AKfish]

Browns40; clip a pic of those offending cap screws --- would ya? I'd like to see how different they are from other FEL mast bolts.

I agree that they are a challenge to break loose. I've got a Craftsman 1/2 drive ratchet and "black" impact grade 6-point sockets and a 3' long aluminum pipe "cheater" for added coaxing---

Whenever I see JD recommend 260 ft./lbs. of torque on the larger bolts, etc. -- I know I'm gonna be lookin' for the Advil and Ben-gay at night!

AKfish

 

[GreenWannabe]

To reduce the manual effort, you might want to consider a geared head wrench or torque multiplier wrench - pricey, yes, but what is your back strain and tool damage worth? I'd just be leery of the Chinese made ones.

 

[Nuru]

You know that is a good suggestion. i also need to look into those. Sear should have a sale coming up on tools and I need to go explore a good buy of some solid tools.

 

[tglass]

Didn't know where was best to post this, but figured since I was working on the 300CX, this would do...

Another poster had mentioned how difficult their 300CX was to take off of their machine... I found the same (although I had torqued down the cap screws pretty firmly), but was not surprised...

Backing up the cap screws was HARD--I'll admit, those zerks underneath were ones I'd hit only every 20 hours or so, but...

Getting on track: after twisting the heads off of one 3" extension, cracking the female end of the 8" extension (1/2 inch drive), then moving on up to the 3/4 drive breaker bar (then immediately shearing the head off of the 3/4-->1/2 inch adapter) backing these stays out so I could clean them up (hoping to put the quick back to quick attach), I resolve this:

I will NEVER buy tools, or any load/stress bearing fasteners/pins made of Chinese "steel" (if that was what was actually in these!) again! A guy could get hurt pretty bad when these high-torque maneuvers let go all of a sudden--fortunately for me, I suspected it might happen when it started taking some "oomph" & kept the action away frow the tractor when pushing.

No guarantee American/Canadian steel wouldn't do the same, but at least I'd know where to take it in!

Anyhow--300 loader owners--get those threads protected right off the bat on those stays & watch putting too much strain on your set screws when you back the pins up to the mast: removing them is tricky!

I'll be checking on a new set, and a tap to get those threads cleaned up!

I'm confused. You mention backing off the capscrews but maybe I've missed something. What grease zerks underneath?

 

[browns40]

Hmm...I'll give importing the diagram from JD parts a try...

Nope--can't even find it now... the zerk is on the bottom of the latch itself & I don't think actually even feeds onto the capscrew, but the latch hinge pin... the capscrew area just collects grease from that area & the pin above it too (at least on my shirt-staining over-greased loader! ).

There was black grease in the reservoir under the capscrew where the spring on the bottom compresses--I am guessing this is factory loaded for corrosion (?), because I don't think that zerk feeds up into there, I'd have pushed that black out with caramel colored by now...

I'd love a torque multiplier! I could add it to my "need-it-twice-a-year" section of "right tools for the job"... Yes: I have a tool problem--it's been 3 days since my last purchase... lol

 

[jd110]

I guess I am confused also. You mentioned removing the loader. The 300cx should come off without any tools. Or are you removing the mounting frames also?

 

[browns40]

Hmm... a picture would make this easier for folks... I apologize this is the best shot I can find... the capscrew shown (barely) on the latch on pg 3 is painted green--all I've actually seen are unpainted, so that should help--the unpainted bolt head that seats against your loader mast coming out of the latch.

The loader latch on the 3rd page down can "lock the loader to the tractor to prevent removal", and "is adjustable to disable the parking function" it is quite effective at discouraging it's removal when the capscrew is backed up tight against the mast plate... wouldn't have a reason to mess with the loader mounts, at least not to date...

I find that the unless that capscrew is backed firmly into the plate, there is some play in the boom arms... so I make it as solid as I can (only comes off for the float on the 4th! First prize this year BTW!)