Dirt Moving 3ph adjustable lift arm, keeps adjusting!

[TOSA Ranch]

I'm a newbie to tractors (only have 23 hrs on my 3016 HST) so bear with me here, but if can't seem to get my adjustable lift arm on my 3PH to stay put. I've threaded the other nut against it, but now they both spin together! Am I missing a crucial step here?

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[Sysop]

By adjustable lift arm, do you mean the center top link, or do you mean the side leveling adjustment on the lower (typically right side) link? Reason I ask is as far as I know the two lower links are the lift arms, with the adjustable one being a small turnbuckle; and the top link has the stop nut, it is also sometimes known as the draft link (engages the tractors draft sensor for draft operation).

If the side leveling turnbuckle has a stop nut on it also, I wasn't aware and learned something.

Generally a stop nut turning with whatever it is supposed to stop is just a case of not having them tightened against each other enough.

My brother in law's tractor has several turnbuckles on the back and has also had issues with vibrations spinning them out of adjustment. His fix: rubber straps. He has straps hooked to the two sway stabilizer turnbuckles and on his leveling adjustment turnbuckle to keep any from turning.

 

[TOSA Ranch]

Yes, it's the right lower link and it does have a stopper nut. They both have ears to allow easy turning (just like a top link) but I haven't explored using tools to tighten them against each other. Might try strapping them to something like you suggested. I was actually debating on buying another solid lift arm (like the one on the left) since most of what I'm doing is leveling work but $130 was a bit steep.

Haven't had trouble with the top link since mine is hydraulic. Guess I should've sprung for the extra rear remote. Oh well.

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[AchingBack]

TOSA Ranch. You do need to use tools in order to properly tighten the lock nut on the adjustable lift link.

 

[TOSA Ranch]

Thanks Aching Back. What do you recommend? I suppose I could use a couple closed end wrenches over the pins. Is there a specific tool for that?

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[JCByrd24]

My guess is you shouldn't need a tool on the link/pins, those may give you enough leverage themselves, but you need help on the nut. My link doesn't have the pins and usually it's no problem as once they're snug the assembly won't rotate because of the end connections and you can go a little more with a wrench on the nut without anything on the link. If that's not working you may want to see if you have excess grease especially where they come together.

 

[AchingBack]

My top link has two ears in the middle, and one ear on the nut. Using a couple of box end wrenches, I tighten the nut against the top link. The ears fit through the holes in the box ends. I've also done it with the hanger holes on my crescent wrenches. It doesn't take a lot of torgue.

 

[Sfrankland]

I have the 3616which has the same 3PT hitch as yours. I just finger tighten everything and I have never had an issue with it.

 

[k0ua]

Also there is a trick to obtaining a tighter fit between the stop nut and the adjusting link without tools, is to not try to tighten the nut against the link, but to tighten the link against the nut.

Do this. Grasp the nut between your thumb and forefinger as tight as you can hold it, and using your other hand, screw the link up tight against the nut in a rapid motion. You will get the joint tighter using this method than trying to tighten the nut against the link adjuster.

Of course if you have a wrench, then by all means use it.

 

[TOSA Ranch]

Well, as luck would have it, I broke the whole **** thing. I figured I'd play with it a bit and so I extended it almost all the way out. Ran a couple passes on a drainage ditch I've been working on and looked back to see the threads had pulled out of the thing! I guess I only had a few turns left in it and that was too much for it to handle. Oh well, live and learn. I'm going to try and bore out the broken threads and see if I can't get it back together, otherwise I'm out $160 for a new one.

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