4110 Draft control

[jeff77indy]

What is the secret to moving the draft control pin form the solid hole to the slotted hole?
I've been doing some subsoiling getting ready to plow up a hayfield for spring planting and would like to use the draft control.
It's been too dry to seed any hay this fall.
Jeff

 

[LAWALLSTRACTOR]

Jeff,
I went out and checked the 4110 on my lot, and see your problem. I used a prybar to try to loosen the tension on that pin but couldn't. I think you will have to just drive the pin out with a hammer and punch. I'm not sure how it will be to get the pin back in, when you want to return to the draft disabled position. Let us know how you make out and good luck.

 

[jeff77indy]

Jeff,
I went out and checked the 4110 on my lot, and see your problem. I used a prybar to try to loosen the tension on that pin but couldn't. I think you will have to just drive the pin out with a hammer and punch. I'm not sure how it will be to get the pin back in, when you want to return to the draft disabled position. Let us know how you make out and good luck.

Gallen;
Thanks. I got the pin out with a hammer and punch but couldn't get enough leverage on the top link bracket to get the pin in the slotted hole. Getting it back into the first hole wasn't that much of a problem.
I may make some type of bar to get enough leverage to swap them. Then maybe leave it in the draft position if things work out. I believe the DC can be turned off by the DC lever position.
Jeff

 

[Dougster]

Gallen; Thanks. I got the pin out with a hammer and punch but couldn't get enough leverage on the top link bracket to get the pin in the slotted hole. Getting it back into the first hole wasn't that much of a problem. I may make some type of bar to get enough leverage to swap them. Then maybe leave it in the draft position if things work out. I believe the DC can be turned off by the DC lever position.
Jeff

Same exact problem here Jeff (and I thought it was just me). I eventually gave up and went back to position control only... always keeping a close watch on the box blade and rake when in use. By the time I'm done, my neck always needs to be wrenched back into its "normal" position.

I just figured I'd find or make a slightly smaller pin someday when I had the time. Alternatively, I'd carefully drill out (i.e., widen) the slotted hole.

Dougster

 

[jeff77indy]

Same exact problem here Jeff (and I thought it was just me). I eventually gave up and went back to position control only... always keeping a close watch on the box blade and rake when in use. By the time I'm done, I'm neck always needs to be wrenched back into its "normal" position.

I just figured I'd find or make a slightly smaller pin someday when I had the time. Alternatively, I'd carefully drill out (i.e., widen) the slotted hole.

Dougster

I got the pin moved to the slotted hole. Needed a bigger prybar. I did not get a chance to do any more subsoiling tonight as we had some rough weather coming in. I'll see how it works hopefully tommorrow evening. I'm thinking I'll get another pin if I need to go back to position control and leave the the other pin in the slot if possible.
I'll report back as soon as I do some more subsoiling or plowing.
I'm going to pick up my Allis Chalmers 82T sickle bar mower Saturday morning so maybe I'll get back to it by that evening.
Jeff

 

[Dougster]

I got the pin moved to the slotted hole. Needed a bigger prybar. {snip!} I'm thinking I'll get another pin if I need to go back to position control and leave the the other pin in the slot if possible.

An excellent idea. Pins are cheap. I'll do the same once I get it in.

Dougster

 

[jeff77indy]

An excellent idea. Pins are cheap. I'll do the same once I get it in.

Dougster

The bar I used was a 3ft garilla bar between two top link pins. It would be easier if you had a helper. I did it by myself but a helper would have been nice.
You'll have the drive the pin out of the round hole with a hammer and punch.
Jeff

 

[bindian]

The bar I used was a 3ft garilla bar between two top link pins. It would be easier if you had a helper. I did it by myself but a helper would have been nice.
You'll have the drive the pin out of the round hole with a hammer and punch.
Jeff

Buy another pin, taper the end to look like a bullet, and cut the head off. Then hammer it in, followed by the serviceable pin. I have all sizes of "bullets" in my tool box in the hangar. It isn't just a tractor "thing".
hugs, Brandi

 

[Dougster]

The bar I used was a 3ft garilla bar between two top link pins. It would be easier if you had a helper. I did it by myself but a helper would have been nice. You'll have the drive the pin out of the round hole with a hammer and punch.
Jeff

Buy another pin, taper the end to look like a bullet, and cut the head off. Then hammer it in, followed by the serviceable pin. I have all sizes of "bullets" in my tool box in the hangar. It isn't just a tractor "thing".
hugs, Brandi

Being an old engineer, I'll have to take a much closer look at why this very simple switchover is so difficult before I decide on the best solution. I'll give TYM the benefit of the doubt for now. Maybe there is a really simple adjustment or other solution that I'm just not seeing yet.

And if not, out will come the drills, big hammers and long pry bars!

Dougster

 

[BobF]

Being an old engineer, I'll have to take a much closer look at why this very simple switchover is so difficult before I decide on the best solution. I'll give TYM the benefit of the doubt for now. Maybe there is a really simple adjustment or other solution that I'm just not seeing yet.

And if not, out will come the drills, big hammers and long pry bars!

Dougster

Did anyone ever figure this out?