50 Hour & upgrades

[HiTork]

Well, it is time for the 50 hour PM and some upgrades. I am going to use Mills Fleet bulk products for the fluids, AW 32 for the hydraulics, 80-90W Gear lube for the Gear case and front end, and 10W-30 Diesel multi-grade oil for the engine. I have the NAPA Gold filters for the engine and plan to just clean the air filiter for now. I already have 50-50 antifreeze in the tractor so that is good to go.

I am also going to change out the starter switch with the New Holland/Ford switch. While I am at it I plan to run a new heavier guage wire from the starter solenoid to the start position of the Ford Switch. I believe the current wire is too small and that is partially why the soleniod fails to engage the starter when it gets colder. I may also put an indicator light in the dash connected to the glowplugs so I can see they are geting juice when I turn the key to the heat position.

The new starter switch is a pretty good piece, even if it is a lucas electrics switch. Thos who used to have Triumph/BSA or Norton motorcycles know what I mean.

The part number for the Switch is E7NN11N501AC, the key does not come as part of the switch nor does the nut to hold the switch in place. The replacement key is P/N 5170782.

The NAPA Gold filters are - Oil, 1626 & Fuel 3195

Also here is a PDF file that is the Ford tech bulletin on the switch.

Now it is 300 miles over the hills and through the woods for Thanksgiving and another chance to play, er' WORK, on with the tractor.

Have a great Thanks Giving everyone.

HiTork,

That's 1st Gear, Low Range, Creeper Gear!!!

 

[greg_g]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( the key does not come as part of the switch nor does the nut to hold the switch in place. )</font>
Strange.....I got both key and nut with MINE.

There has been quite a bit of discussion about NOT using synthetic oils and grease in new equipment, especially during the break-in period. Argument is that you WANT a little meshing and gnashing - or they wouldn't call it "break-in". If the synthetics are as "slippery" as claimed, I'd have to call it a strong argument.

My recommendation is to stick with a good 15W40 - maybe for the first 300 hours or so. Or have you found a non-synthetic 10W30 that carries an API Service Code C (formulated for diesel use)?

..greg..

 

[JohnS]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( I may also put an indicator light in the dash connected to the glowplugs so I can see they are geting juice when I turn the key to the heat position.
)</font>

Most of the time, the ammeter is a pretty good indicator if they are on or not. Outside of engine cranking, you won't see such a heavy draw on it. It wouldn't be hard to do, though. If you do add that, consider while you are behind the dash, adding a red brake light indicator. Early on, I had a habit of forgetting that the parking brake was on /forums/images/graemlins/blush.gif While not a perfect idiot light (maybe adding a seat zapper would be!), it did tend to help.

 

[F100Panel]

My previous tractror was a little Bolens 174 4x4 Diesel. Engine specs called for 15w30. Shell Rotella was the only one who made a Diesel Rated 15w-30 that I found & I had to go to a Shell Distributor to get it.... /forums/images/graemlins/crazy.gif

 

[greg_g]

Been changing oil in diesel engines for a long time now, and can honestly say I've never ever once seen a container of non-synthetic Rotella 10W30. Admittedly, I've never looked for it specifically, but out of curiosity I went to the Rotella WebSite . The multi-grade Applications Chart pretty much explains the low visibility of Rotella 10W30.

Besides the availability issue, please note that Jinma recommends 40W when the ambient temps are above 25C. Having lived in Minnesota for over 20 years, I know for a fact that it gets hotter than 77F there in the summer time.

Unless you want to revert to the old winter/summer oil change routine, I stick to my original recommendation of 15W40 for a Y385 crankcase.

//greg//

 

[Soundguy]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( While I am at it I plan to run a new heavier guage wire from the starter solenoid to the start position of the Ford Switch. I believe the current wire is too small and that is partially why the soleniod fails to engage the starter when it gets colder )</font>

What size is on their currently? Less than 14 gauge? A 14 gauge wire should do 15a easy... How much pull in current do those china solenoids use?

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( even if it is a lucas electrics switch. Thos who used to have Triumph/BSA or Norton motorcycles know what I mean.
)</font>

Lucas.. prince of darkness...
/forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif

Soundguy

 

[greg_g]

Agreed. The OE wire is rated to carry considerably more amperage than the starter solenoid draws. If you trace the wiring, you'll see the 30A system fuse is inline between the ignition switch and the starter solenoid. You ain't gonna get more amps to the solenoid with fatter wire. The OE battery cables/connectors leave a bit to be desired though. I replaced them - and the battery - early on in my troubleshooting. You will very likely also find a lot of paint between ground cable and the frame.

I tried the entire winter of 2002 to find solutions to the pinion gear engagement problem. I even modified the attack angle of the armature shaft. Absolutely the ONLY usable remedy I came up with was HEAT. Buy a 300W Kats magnetic heater, and stick it on the starter housing when the nights start getting cold.

//greg//

 

[MarkNHow]

It has also been recommended by some that you use a low sulphur gear oil safe for yellow metals. I don't remember if that is the same part number of the ford switch I ordered but like Greg mine came with the nut and 2 keys.

Mark

 

[SPIKER]

(<font> <font color="blueclass=small">

If you do add that, consider while you are behind the dash, adding a red brake light indicator. Early on, I had a habit of forgetting that the parking brake was on /forums/images/graemlins/blush.gif While not a perfect idiot light (maybe adding a seat zapper would be!), it did tend to help. </font>
</font>
JOHN:

that SEAT ZAPPIE qould be a good sell, I would be using it as a SEAT WARMER as I've forgotten to release it more times that I think I've put it on! lol. /forums/images/graemlins/blush.gif I usually just punch the FEL down and raise the front tires a few inches now when I'm working around it doing this or that such as loading rocks in the fel. it is easier to remember to lift the fel than release the brakes. /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif


I also would not use syntic oils for a good 300+ hrs.

also the bypas hose for the water pump gets ATE by antifreeze unless they fixed this so be aware of this and get one on-hand incase the thing blows!

I have not done any mods to mine yet other than swapping out the oil gauge for a direct reading one as the old one died.

also I added some extra ground wires from the steering colum to the gas gauge fller ring and onto the engine ground bar at the back valve cover... this helped an erratic fuel sender issue it had. now it goes up/down as the fuel sloshes around on rough terraine.

Mark M /forums/images/graemlins/laugh.gif

 

[JohnS]

Mark,
I use the FEL method, as well. /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif And on hills, use both. I do use the brakes, when installing/removing a 3pt impliment. A little bit of tire creep can be a PITA. The amount of PITA depends on the weight of the impliment, and how hard it is to move.