50 hours - details details

[Tractor_Jim_CT]

It says a lot about a person who offers to help another.

I am grateful JM has taken the time to answer my million questions from pre-BX23 to present.

 

[Tractor_Jim_CT]

Found time this evening to start 50 hour service.

Removed the BH which was fairly easy. I marked the outer rear tires lines chalk on the driveway prior to removing in hopes it will help lineup the backhole and tractor when reattaching.

Started by cleaning the screen around the battery and the air screen behind the radiator. I cleaned and waxed any metal areas as I think this is a good time to clean and protect metal areas while things are apart.

I was thinking at 100 hours, I may put some type of support under the FEL that will hold it up hign enough, so that when the frame around the hood is removed, it should slide out without removing the FEL.

I bought a pair of plier type oil filter removers that came that helped loosen the oil filter after draining the oil. The oil was black. I was given a gallon of Kubota 10-30 oil from the dealer and it took about 3 to 3 1/2 quarts to fill, with about a quart left over.

Started to remove the fuel filter on the oposite side and I have to say what a pain in the _ _ _. There is a top and bottom hose to the fuel filter. Got the top fuel hose off the old filter and moved it to the new filter. It started getting dark so I stopped with my frustration on getting the old hose off the bottom portion of the fuel filter. I covered the tractor feeling 45% of the job is done.

Not sure if I should have started with the fuel filter under the tractor. I did notice a metal bar that looked bent up in a V shape protecting the little fan area. Not sure if I hit something or if it is actually shaped this way.

so far so good, except for that dam fuel filter. Any ideas on plugging the fuel hose between filters. I just held the tube up and plugged in the new filter.

/forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif

 

[Junkman]

The fuel filter didn't need to be removed until much later in the hour schedule. To stop the fuel from coming out the hose, put some a couple of layers of duct tape on the jaws of a needle nose Vice Grip to cover the "teeth" and lightly clamp it on the rubber hose. It won't take much to collapse the inside of the hose so no fuel comes out. Save the old one for when you need it later on. A used one is better than none when one goes bad on a Sunday. Good luck and remember that I am only a telephone call away if you get into trouble. If it is really bad trouble, then it will take me about 1 1/4 hours to get there, but I will come to the rescue. Junk.......

 

[Tractor_Jim_CT]

Hi Junkman

I put in a lot of hours doing mortgage banking and today at 5 I said it's too nice a day to be in the office and went home determined to start. I've gotten frustrated with all of the good weather being on workdays in the last month, with rainy or mostly cloudy weekends.

The BX in the last couple hours 48-50, I noticed when back blading, or back toothbar_ing, the engine would go into a very low idle as if it was going to stall, then return after 5-10 seconds to the normal idle.

It wasn't the shaking as if it ran out diesel, but a smooth almost stalling idle. I fiqured one of filters is starting to get clogged, since this happen about a dozen times.

Just have to drain the transmisson fluid and change the transmision fluid. And clean the filter. Pick up for $5 at Lowes a large, thick plastic pan to catch the fluid, It's about 3 feet by 3 feet and 8 inches high. So far so good.

My goal is once this 50 hours is over, to give the tractor a good cleaning an waxing. Thanks for the help.

 

[Tractor_Jim_CT]

By the way, it was great working outside on the tractor. Sunny, with a light 72 degrees breeze, watching my daughter running around with the dog (spinger spaniel) Reminded me of when I was younger working on my 1971 Mustang..Might leave the office early again today. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

 

[Tractor_Jim_CT]

Ok 60% done..changed both fuel filters today. Does anyone know if a fuel shut off valve can be added on the bottom filter hose between the tank and filter. when I started the tractor after oil and fuel filter change, it seemed to be running much smoother.

Last to do is change the transmisson fluid, hydro filter, clean screen filter, lube the links, recheck tire pressure and lube the joints then put bh back on.

 

[LBrown59]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">(



I would love to have a dealer do the 50 hours since this is kind of a pain. <font color="red"> I never took off the FEL or BH and was hoping I did not have to.</font> I have all of the parts, fluids and tools and looking forward to getting this done so I can get back in the seat. Anyways, not money but lack of a good, trust worthy dealer.
)</font>
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<font color="red"> You don't have to </font>

 

[LBrown59]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">(


5) Some have mentioned to put wood blocks under the tractor
for more clearance. Should the tractor be lifted off the
ground, rear tire removed to get at trans-screen, before
lowering onto blocks and releasing the pressure.

7) Brake cleaner-just spray the metal chips off of the screen?
Any other thoughts on cleaning the screen?

)</font>
<font color="brown"> ~~~~~ ~~~~~ ~~ </font>
5*No need to remove rear wheel.

7*I just rinsed mine off in a little gas in a 3 pound coffee can.
Let it air dry then reinstalled it when I was ready.

 

[LBrown59]

The last time I did the service on mine I lifted the front wheels with the FEL and placed two 2x6x16 wooden blocks under each tire.
To get the front end high enough to do this I had to place a 4x4 under the loader bucket.

On the back I put two 2x6x16 wooden blocks under each tire.
I lifted the rear with the stabilizers and I think I had to put blocks under the pads to raise the wheels high enough to get the two 2x6x16 wooden blocks under each one of the tires.

From this I discovered that a 2x6 isn't wide enough as the tractor would rock more than I liked when setting on the blocks and there was too much shuffling of blocks under the FEL and Stabilizer Pads in raising and lowering the tractor onto the blocks.
I do like the fact that the 3 inch raise in height makes it a good bit easier to get to things under the tractor.
I plan on making a set of low boy ramps out of Two by Twelves and just simply drive the tractor up on them which will avoid all the lifting blocking and unblocking.