5035 Fuel Delivery Problem

[dukeyjoe]

Hello fellas, I need some advice!
I have a 5035 with 35 hours on it. About 10 days ago, I started it to let it warm up while I unloaded 3 round bales of hay with my CTL and when I went to get on the tractor it was not running and would not start. Checked for water in original fuel filter and it was good; Loosened fuel injector pump side line on filter and one to two pumps had it giving pure fuel (this rules out a filter issue, correct?); finally, bled lines at injectors (which were dry) and it started up and ran fine. Today, it started and ran fine till I got to the back 40 acres and once I cut it off, it wouldn't start again. I went through the same process as above and it started up, only to die on it's own about 15 minutes later. Repeated process and it dies in 10 minutes. It seems to be getting air in the system somehow, but I see no leaks. Could faulty fuel shut off solenoid cause an issue, where I had fuel to the injector pump and air in lines after the injector pump? Any advice is greatly appreciated.
TIA,
Duke

 

[AchingBack]

Try draining your fuel tank.

 

[oldpilgrim]

Your fuel cap vent might be plugged. Try running it with the cap loose.

 

[Sysop]

It sounds like you may have some of the "famed" 35 series bad fuel lines. Return side just leaks down the firewall. Pressure side sucks air in operation and doesn't deliver good fuel flow (lots of guys first notice it running lean at high RPMs). When it is bad enough; it cuts out, the air leaks in, and the fuel drains back out of the line down to the tank.

The older lines that typically have issues have a braided covering on them, the newer ones are like a wrapped high pressure line. From the factory everything is painted black, and in this image below the new style had not been painted black. If yours came with the new style installed, it would be painted black, but you can still easily tell the difference in the type of hose used. If your unit has the older braided style lines, have them swapped as soon as possible that way they're not littering the injection system with bits of the old line. The older style lines are pretty bad...

 

[bindian]

ABack,
It could be either the fuel lines or the fuel cap. Change the easiest thing first and don't shotgun it by changing more than one thing at a time. That way you will know exactly what fixed it.
hugs, Brandi

 

[dave11c]

My 5035 started leaking fuel at the firewall at 19 hours. Replaced the braided line and problem fixed. At 50 hours the 5035 had hard start,no start,dying issues, it would also run lean at higher rpm. This problem was fuel line sucking air from the tank.

I replaced all fuel lines on the tractor with a quality fuel hose. The tractor now has 350 hours and no problem since.
The left rear tire will have to be removed to gain access to the tank and fuel lines. It is a fairly simple fix.

 

[JerryK]

Geez, sounds like a periphery of ' change the fuel line ' ........ imagine that....

 

[dukeyjoe]

Thanks all for the responses. I have not drained the tank, but I have inspected the fuel cap and it appears to be fine. I haven't noticed any fuel leaking anywhere, but am convinced, by the posts above and pms with JerryK and Dave that it is a fuel line, even if I don't see any fuel leaking, yet. Sysop and dave11c (prior service fellas?), are these lines incorporating metal a recall or warranty item?

 

[Sysop]

Thanks all for the responses. I have not drained the tank, but I have inspected the fuel cap and it appears to be fine. I haven't noticed any fuel leaking anywhere, but am convinced, by the posts above and pms with JerryK and Dave that it is a fuel line, even if I don't see any fuel leaking, yet. Sysop and dave11c (prior service fellas?), are these lines incorporating metal a recall or warranty item?

For whatever reason, a leak on the pressure side doesn't show leaking fuel at any point, only the return side will drip fuel when leaking. The incoming line leaks air into the fuel stream while it is running. When a large enough burst of air comes through the line and shuts the tractor down, air continues to leak into the line allowing all the fuel in the line to return to the tank, requiring it to be re-primed (and to prime the system, it needs to be free of leaks, if the leak is bad enough you can pump the primer all day long and accomplish nothing).

All of those line assemblies can be repaired with standard fuel line from the auto parts store. Just take off the original line and grind off the crimped metal that crimps the rubber hose to the metal section and cut the rubber off. You will find there is a barb ring around the metal tube that you can slide a new hose over and use a standard clamp on. This is actually the typical repair by the dealers unless specified by the customer to order exact replacements. Dealers do it that way so they can have the unit in operation for the owner faster, and they get more compensation from MUSA in doing the repair rather than requesting a replacement part.

My unit was still under warranty and in operation, so I just had my dealer order the part and I did the swap myself at the farm in about 10 minutes time. I had to return the failed assembly so the dealer could be compensated by MUSA. If you are under warranty you may want to try the same, but if you are stuck in the field, pulling the line and taking it to the house to grind the crimp off and install new hose shouldn't be a huge hassle (compared to having equipment in the field waiting on new parts to arrive from MUSA). If I recall it took about 5 or 6 business days for the replacement line assembly to arrive.

They are warranty if still within the warranty period, there was no recall. Otherwise they're not too expensive to purchase or repair.

 

[dukeyjoe]

Does anyone know what size fuel lines are on the 5035. Both my trucks have been down and Mahindra couldn't pick it up, so I'm going to replace all braided lines and they will put the factory lines on in 20 hrs, which will be the 50 hr. service interval.. It looks to be 5/16, but no one around here has it. I have 3/8 here. If I can get it to seal up good with the clamps, will the bigger hose throw off the pressures?
TIA,
Duke