64 Ford 2000 Water Pump Help

[Homestead Blue]

Hey guys,

I have a 1964 Ford 2000 gas/4cyl. Two years ago I had a bad water pump, I replaced it and the thermostat. It started overheating again so I pulled the thermostat and boiled it. It opened no problem. I ran the machine before reinstalling it and it overheated again. I opened the radiator cap and at idle I thought I saw flow, but it's hard to tell because the tractor vibrates so much naturally. The hoses are not collapsing. So yesterday I pulled the radiator to take it to have it cleaned and rodded. While off I setup a water jug to the bottom hose (see attached picture). I poured water through the top hose until it started filling the jug. I started the tractor and let it run for awhile. I never got anything out of the top hose. Is there anything wrong with trying to test it this way? Is it definitely the water pump?

Thanks guys!

 

[Texasmark]

My '63 2000 is diesel and has a 2 bladed fan. I guess gassers have more blades.....may be some kind of a clue. If you hook everything up without the thermostat installed and run the tractor you should see good flow when looking into the radiator at PTO rpms. If not you have blockage somewhere. Usually you can see corrosion buildup when looking at the tops of the tubes and if so it needs "rotting out" or a new core/radiator. Otherwise you ought to be able to see through the fins looking from the front. Otherwise the block could be full of corrosion from running water only....cast iron rusts! A tight fan belt, like ｼ" max deflection when pushing on the the belt between pulleys, or grab a fan blade and see if you can turn it by hand with a goodly amount of force with the engine stopped....it shouldn't.

If all that checks out, maybe your temp gauge is bad. Stick a candy thermometer (has the range to get up over 130F) in the radiator water and read the actual temp.

Last, check your engine timing....advanced too far tends to run hot.

 

[Homestead Blue]

Thanks! I actually had the radiator cleaned and rodded. They found a leak and soldered it. After install and fresh coolant it ran the same. My belt was really worn so I ordered a new one and installed it. Took it out running the bushhog and it overheated. I let it cool down and checked the coolant, it was a little low which made sense because I drained the block before filling it with the new coolant. So I topped her off and tried again. This time it went up to redline and all of a sudden dropped to center. Like a pop, not a slow fall. I'm pretty sure I had a blockage in the block that popped loose. I drained all the coolant, and added back fresh coolant. Ran it all day discing with zero issues.

 

[Roadworthy]

Next time you dismantle the cooling system consider reverse flushing the engine block. You may be surprised how much crud you flush out.

 

[Homestead Blue]

I was going to but I have no idea what kind of fitting to use. The block plug is like a T with a hole in the center that drains. I was going to buy I couldn't figure out how to hook it up.

 

[Texasmark]

Next time you dismantle the cooling system consider reverse flushing the engine block. You may be surprised how much crud you flush out.

Right on. Cast iron rusts if only water is used and scale is everywhere. I think you nailed it in that your problem was just that, a piece of scale, or pile somewhere that it could cause your problem.

 

[Roadworthy]

I don't have a fitting for flushing a block. I just put a garden hose into the radiator hose and turn on the water. I'll forward flush it then reverse flush it again. The engine need not be running at this point. I usually pick a nice summer day as you can get wet.

 

[Homestead Blue]

So you're just flushing the radiator then?

 

[Texasmark]

So you're just flushing the radiator then?

No, if you have the T stat out and upper hose removed, or disconnected from the radiator and inject water from the lower hose with a rag on the connection to force pressurized household water hose water into the block you are flushing the block.

The water pump is a centrifugal pump and pumps water into the upper hose so that it can deliver the heated water at the top of the radiator. As the water falls through the radiator, it is cooled (as you know cool temps are low, heat rises) for reentry into the lower part of the engine. Centrifugal pumps do not have blade contact with the chamber so they are considered low pressure, high volume pumps. Displacement, rotary (having a wobble shaft like your hyd. pump on that tractor) or Gear pumps (like your oil pump on that tractor) do have contact and develop/can develop high pressures.

 

[lennyzx11]

Did you find crud in the drained coolant?

I would have thought of a sticking thermostat or one installed upside down as a first culprit to cause this sudden pop loose.

Btw. I have the same tractor if you ever need comparison notes or pictures.
Mine has 4 speed and power steering.