I test drove a 7510 and liked it although it bogged down mowing tall wet grass and when climbing a hill (mower not engaged). I was in high gear. Is it likely that the extra 3 hp the 7610 offers would reduce this, or is this simply caused by the fact that I was in high. Also when rough cutting, will I need to be in low?
7510 vs 7610
- Thread starter hillmower
- Start date
I test drove a 7510 and liked it although it bogged down mowing tall wet grass and when climbing a hill (mower not engaged). I was in high gear. Is it likely that the extra 3 hp the 7610 offers would reduce this, or is this simply caused by the fact that I was in high. Also when rough cutting, will I need to be in low?
Bob_Young
Veteran Member
- Joined
- Jul 5, 2002
- Messages
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- North of the Fingerlakes - NY
- Tractor
- Ford 4000; Ford 2000(both 3cyl.);JD40; 2004 Kubota L4300; 2006 Kubota B7610; new 2007 Kubota MX5000
Hi Hill,
Can't really answer your question as I've only had my B7610 a couple of days. So far, nothing has bogged it down, but I may not have pushed it as hard as you did the 7510.
Have only mowed a hour or two with it since delivery using a 60" MMM. My lawns were grown up pretty good due to recent rains so it did work the tractor, but the only indication of tough going was a change in the tone of the hydro whine....RPM never varied. All my mowing was done in Low Range.
I was holding engine RPM at around 2000 +-100RPM and getting all the groundspeed I wanted in Low Range. Since mower operation pretty much dictates engine RPM, I question why you would want to run in High range if Low gave you the speed you needed. If the sounds emanating from the HST are any indication (and I'm a gearhead who's admittedly new to HSTs), running in low places less strain on the drivetrain. I figure that's probably because you're making use of the mechanical advantage provided by those uncomplaining gears.
As to the 7510/7610 question, I'd get the 7610 unless your dealer is offering some special deal on the smaller tractor. I believe in getting the most HP available in any given frame size. With the 7510 there's a greater potential for future regrets, especially if you'll be working on hills. The engine in the 7610 is about 7 cu. in. bigger than in the 7510, so the power increase comes with a torque increase...they didn't just play with the injection pump output to get better numbers.
I really like the 7610 and am surprised at how maneuverable it is. Mowing seems effortless compared to what I was used to. My only complaints are that the mower is a bit fussy to get adjusted properly and that the quarter inching 3pt. hitch control is Mickey Mouse compared to position control...but I can make it work. All things considered, it seems an excellent machine...I'm embarassed to own anything this nice.
FWIW
Bob
'Scuse me, I gotta go mow /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
Can't really answer your question as I've only had my B7610 a couple of days. So far, nothing has bogged it down, but I may not have pushed it as hard as you did the 7510.
Have only mowed a hour or two with it since delivery using a 60" MMM. My lawns were grown up pretty good due to recent rains so it did work the tractor, but the only indication of tough going was a change in the tone of the hydro whine....RPM never varied. All my mowing was done in Low Range.
I was holding engine RPM at around 2000 +-100RPM and getting all the groundspeed I wanted in Low Range. Since mower operation pretty much dictates engine RPM, I question why you would want to run in High range if Low gave you the speed you needed. If the sounds emanating from the HST are any indication (and I'm a gearhead who's admittedly new to HSTs), running in low places less strain on the drivetrain. I figure that's probably because you're making use of the mechanical advantage provided by those uncomplaining gears.
As to the 7510/7610 question, I'd get the 7610 unless your dealer is offering some special deal on the smaller tractor. I believe in getting the most HP available in any given frame size. With the 7510 there's a greater potential for future regrets, especially if you'll be working on hills. The engine in the 7610 is about 7 cu. in. bigger than in the 7510, so the power increase comes with a torque increase...they didn't just play with the injection pump output to get better numbers.
I really like the 7610 and am surprised at how maneuverable it is. Mowing seems effortless compared to what I was used to. My only complaints are that the mower is a bit fussy to get adjusted properly and that the quarter inching 3pt. hitch control is Mickey Mouse compared to position control...but I can make it work. All things considered, it seems an excellent machine...I'm embarassed to own anything this nice.
FWIW
Bob
'Scuse me, I gotta go mow /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
Bob_Young
Veteran Member
- Joined
- Jul 5, 2002
- Messages
- 1,211
- Location
- North of the Fingerlakes - NY
- Tractor
- Ford 4000; Ford 2000(both 3cyl.);JD40; 2004 Kubota L4300; 2006 Kubota B7610; new 2007 Kubota MX5000
Hi Hill,
Can't really answer your question as I've only had my B7610 a couple of days. So far, nothing has bogged it down, but I may not have pushed it as hard as you did the 7510.
Have only mowed a hour or two with it since delivery using a 60" MMM. My lawns were grown up pretty good due to recent rains so it did work the tractor, but the only indication of tough going was a change in the tone of the hydro whine....RPM never varied. All my mowing was done in Low Range.
I was holding engine RPM at around 2000 +-100RPM and getting all the groundspeed I wanted in Low Range. Since mower operation pretty much dictates engine RPM, I question why you would want to run in High range if Low gave you the speed you needed. If the sounds emanating from the HST are any indication (and I'm a gearhead who's admittedly new to HSTs), running in low places less strain on the drivetrain. I figure that's probably because you're making use of the mechanical advantage provided by those uncomplaining gears.
As to the 7510/7610 question, I'd get the 7610 unless your dealer is offering some special deal on the smaller tractor. I believe in getting the most HP available in any given frame size. With the 7510 there's a greater potential for future regrets, especially if you'll be working on hills. The engine in the 7610 is about 7 cu. in. bigger than in the 7510, so the power increase comes with a torque increase...they didn't just play with the injection pump output to get better numbers.
I really like the 7610 and am surprised at how maneuverable it is. Mowing seems effortless compared to what I was used to. My only complaints are that the mower is a bit fussy to get adjusted properly and that the quarter inching 3pt. hitch control is Mickey Mouse compared to position control...but I can make it work. All things considered, it seems an excellent machine...I'm embarassed to own anything this nice.
FWIW
Bob
'Scuse me, I gotta go mow /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
Can't really answer your question as I've only had my B7610 a couple of days. So far, nothing has bogged it down, but I may not have pushed it as hard as you did the 7510.
Have only mowed a hour or two with it since delivery using a 60" MMM. My lawns were grown up pretty good due to recent rains so it did work the tractor, but the only indication of tough going was a change in the tone of the hydro whine....RPM never varied. All my mowing was done in Low Range.
I was holding engine RPM at around 2000 +-100RPM and getting all the groundspeed I wanted in Low Range. Since mower operation pretty much dictates engine RPM, I question why you would want to run in High range if Low gave you the speed you needed. If the sounds emanating from the HST are any indication (and I'm a gearhead who's admittedly new to HSTs), running in low places less strain on the drivetrain. I figure that's probably because you're making use of the mechanical advantage provided by those uncomplaining gears.
As to the 7510/7610 question, I'd get the 7610 unless your dealer is offering some special deal on the smaller tractor. I believe in getting the most HP available in any given frame size. With the 7510 there's a greater potential for future regrets, especially if you'll be working on hills. The engine in the 7610 is about 7 cu. in. bigger than in the 7510, so the power increase comes with a torque increase...they didn't just play with the injection pump output to get better numbers.
I really like the 7610 and am surprised at how maneuverable it is. Mowing seems effortless compared to what I was used to. My only complaints are that the mower is a bit fussy to get adjusted properly and that the quarter inching 3pt. hitch control is Mickey Mouse compared to position control...but I can make it work. All things considered, it seems an excellent machine...I'm embarassed to own anything this nice.
FWIW
Bob
'Scuse me, I gotta go mow /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
WayneW
Silver Member
I agree with Bob. If you can do it, get the 7610. You will not regret the 3 extra HP. Around here, it was only $800 more than the 7510. It would be worth it especially if you plan on running a rotary cutter at the rear or a snowblower (especially if it's a front mounted one). Both can really use the extra HP. And could make the difference in using a 5ft rotary opposed to a 4 ft. The 7610 COULD run a 5ft, it you do mostly light stuff, or take it slow the first time, where as I couldn't see running a 5ft on the 7510. Though others here would know much more about this. Around that PTO HP range of 16/18, the line is that thin. And as Bob pointed out, the larger engine does produce more torque than the 2 hp increase indicates.
On going up a hill in high gear with he HSD. I have some large hills on my property. Some my 7610 will NOT climb in high gear. Don't lose traction, don't lack HP. The high gear (I guess) just isn't designed for that. It's for smooth traveling only. Though I do mow my lawn and most of the field in high gear. (both are fairly flat) Just so that I can back up & go from one area to another quickly. (I'm usually trying to mow before it get s dark) Some spots the 7610 will mow up the hill in high gear. I just drop into low for those areas and it chugs up (mowing) without breaking a sweat.
Like the quarter-inching 3-pt really bugs some people (over the position control), the 2-speed tranny was something I knew when I bought the 7610, that I'd have to learn to live with. Unlike the 7800/2630/3030 series that has a 3-speed tranny. The middle gear would be perfect for light loader work and mowing. Low enough for a little grunt work, and high enough to get some decent speed out of to travel a fair distance. So instead, I shift it front low to high pretty frequently.
-cheers
On going up a hill in high gear with he HSD. I have some large hills on my property. Some my 7610 will NOT climb in high gear. Don't lose traction, don't lack HP. The high gear (I guess) just isn't designed for that. It's for smooth traveling only. Though I do mow my lawn and most of the field in high gear. (both are fairly flat) Just so that I can back up & go from one area to another quickly. (I'm usually trying to mow before it get s dark) Some spots the 7610 will mow up the hill in high gear. I just drop into low for those areas and it chugs up (mowing) without breaking a sweat.
Like the quarter-inching 3-pt really bugs some people (over the position control), the 2-speed tranny was something I knew when I bought the 7610, that I'd have to learn to live with. Unlike the 7800/2630/3030 series that has a 3-speed tranny. The middle gear would be perfect for light loader work and mowing. Low enough for a little grunt work, and high enough to get some decent speed out of to travel a fair distance. So instead, I shift it front low to high pretty frequently.
-cheers
WayneW
Silver Member
I agree with Bob. If you can do it, get the 7610. You will not regret the 3 extra HP. Around here, it was only $800 more than the 7510. It would be worth it especially if you plan on running a rotary cutter at the rear or a snowblower (especially if it's a front mounted one). Both can really use the extra HP. And could make the difference in using a 5ft rotary opposed to a 4 ft. The 7610 COULD run a 5ft, it you do mostly light stuff, or take it slow the first time, where as I couldn't see running a 5ft on the 7510. Though others here would know much more about this. Around that PTO HP range of 16/18, the line is that thin. And as Bob pointed out, the larger engine does produce more torque than the 2 hp increase indicates.
On going up a hill in high gear with he HSD. I have some large hills on my property. Some my 7610 will NOT climb in high gear. Don't lose traction, don't lack HP. The high gear (I guess) just isn't designed for that. It's for smooth traveling only. Though I do mow my lawn and most of the field in high gear. (both are fairly flat) Just so that I can back up & go from one area to another quickly. (I'm usually trying to mow before it get s dark) Some spots the 7610 will mow up the hill in high gear. I just drop into low for those areas and it chugs up (mowing) without breaking a sweat.
Like the quarter-inching 3-pt really bugs some people (over the position control), the 2-speed tranny was something I knew when I bought the 7610, that I'd have to learn to live with. Unlike the 7800/2630/3030 series that has a 3-speed tranny. The middle gear would be perfect for light loader work and mowing. Low enough for a little grunt work, and high enough to get some decent speed out of to travel a fair distance. So instead, I shift it front low to high pretty frequently.
-cheers
On going up a hill in high gear with he HSD. I have some large hills on my property. Some my 7610 will NOT climb in high gear. Don't lose traction, don't lack HP. The high gear (I guess) just isn't designed for that. It's for smooth traveling only. Though I do mow my lawn and most of the field in high gear. (both are fairly flat) Just so that I can back up & go from one area to another quickly. (I'm usually trying to mow before it get s dark) Some spots the 7610 will mow up the hill in high gear. I just drop into low for those areas and it chugs up (mowing) without breaking a sweat.
Like the quarter-inching 3-pt really bugs some people (over the position control), the 2-speed tranny was something I knew when I bought the 7610, that I'd have to learn to live with. Unlike the 7800/2630/3030 series that has a 3-speed tranny. The middle gear would be perfect for light loader work and mowing. Low enough for a little grunt work, and high enough to get some decent speed out of to travel a fair distance. So instead, I shift it front low to high pretty frequently.
-cheers
robertm
Veteran Member
I agree to get the 7610 if $800 isn't a problem, but my 7510 never boggs down in wet thick grass. I cut in low with the pedal to the floor. I was just talking to my friend this weekend about the guts my 7510 has. He, ironically, bought a 7610 a year after me - just to "one-up" me. I personally don't think you will notice the 3 extra horsepower, unless you plan on taxing the unit with some larger mowing or tilling attachments - and then I really wonder. If that is the case, you might want to consider a larger unit, such as a 2710 or 2910. Or, if not, maybe the $800 could be better spent toward another attachment. My 2 cents. Good Luck!
robertm
Veteran Member
I agree to get the 7610 if $800 isn't a problem, but my 7510 never boggs down in wet thick grass. I cut in low with the pedal to the floor. I was just talking to my friend this weekend about the guts my 7510 has. He, ironically, bought a 7610 a year after me - just to "one-up" me. I personally don't think you will notice the 3 extra horsepower, unless you plan on taxing the unit with some larger mowing or tilling attachments - and then I really wonder. If that is the case, you might want to consider a larger unit, such as a 2710 or 2910. Or, if not, maybe the $800 could be better spent toward another attachment. My 2 cents. Good Luck!
flusher
Super Member
- Joined
- Jun 4, 2005
- Messages
- 7,538
- Location
- Sacramento
- Tractor
- Getting old. Sold the ranch. Sold the tractors. Moved back to the city.
More HP generally means less time to do chores like mowing.
A few weeks ago I used my 21-hp B7510HST and 4-ft KK brush hog to mow 7 acres of tall weeds (3-5 feet in places). Took me 11 hours of seat time over 2 days mowing in low range and going slow to avoid obstacles and low spots that might have shown up since I last mowed about 7 months previously.
If you think an extra 3-hp will make a difference and $800 more doesn't cause pain, I say go for it.
I'm shopping around now for a used MF 135 (about 42 hp engine) so I can step up to 5-6 ft mowers and also pull a plow and disk for some pasture work. I'll probably keep the 7510 since it has the LA302 FEL that's proven to be invaluable around my place.
A few weeks ago I used my 21-hp B7510HST and 4-ft KK brush hog to mow 7 acres of tall weeds (3-5 feet in places). Took me 11 hours of seat time over 2 days mowing in low range and going slow to avoid obstacles and low spots that might have shown up since I last mowed about 7 months previously.
If you think an extra 3-hp will make a difference and $800 more doesn't cause pain, I say go for it.
I'm shopping around now for a used MF 135 (about 42 hp engine) so I can step up to 5-6 ft mowers and also pull a plow and disk for some pasture work. I'll probably keep the 7510 since it has the LA302 FEL that's proven to be invaluable around my place.
flusher
Super Member
- Joined
- Jun 4, 2005
- Messages
- 7,538
- Location
- Sacramento
- Tractor
- Getting old. Sold the ranch. Sold the tractors. Moved back to the city.
More HP generally means less time to do chores like mowing.
A few weeks ago I used my 21-hp B7510HST and 4-ft KK brush hog to mow 7 acres of tall weeds (3-5 feet in places). Took me 11 hours of seat time over 2 days mowing in low range and going slow to avoid obstacles and low spots that might have shown up since I last mowed about 7 months previously.
If you think an extra 3-hp will make a difference and $800 more doesn't cause pain, I say go for it.
I'm shopping around now for a used MF 135 (about 42 hp engine) so I can step up to 5-6 ft mowers and also pull a plow and disk for some pasture work. I'll probably keep the 7510 since it has the LA302 FEL that's proven to be invaluable around my place.
A few weeks ago I used my 21-hp B7510HST and 4-ft KK brush hog to mow 7 acres of tall weeds (3-5 feet in places). Took me 11 hours of seat time over 2 days mowing in low range and going slow to avoid obstacles and low spots that might have shown up since I last mowed about 7 months previously.
If you think an extra 3-hp will make a difference and $800 more doesn't cause pain, I say go for it.
I'm shopping around now for a used MF 135 (about 42 hp engine) so I can step up to 5-6 ft mowers and also pull a plow and disk for some pasture work. I'll probably keep the 7510 since it has the LA302 FEL that's proven to be invaluable around my place.