vtsnowedin
Elite Member
Thanks for the heads up.
I can hear the relief whining when ever I take a piston all the way to it's end but that is when the valve is open. With my hand off the lever and it centered there isn't any path I know of for excess pressure in the piston caused by the plow pushing back on it to trip the relief and go back to a return line. That is the point of the crossover relief valves they talk about. You only need it if you hit something hard with the forward edge of the plow but they could save a lot of piston damage and let the plow angle back and reduce damage there as well.I guess there must be a system relief valve in my rear remotes then. I run my angle cyls off the remote. Haven't noticed any relief sounding, but I might not with all the other noise.
43 hp 4wd Ag tires, no chains unless really icy, 8' Fisher mounted the way yours is. Without paint...
Jim
I'm still experimenting with what works best with this set up. The wings jut forward like a cupped hand and if I straighten it out too much won't dump out snow. I might pull the pins and take off the right one and try it that way when winging back. I need more snow for practice. Just yesterday while cleaning up a two inch flurry I found I could just use the bucket tilt to raise the plow for backing up and not have to reset the loader arms for each pass.If you are using your plow full angle left/right you aren't using it most efficiently. Plows do their best work when used as close to straight as practical. 2 reasons:
1. The path cleared is the widest possible.
2. A cutting edge perpendicular to the direction of travel "cuts" best. It will clear to the base material best as it is the highest ground pressure in this position.
Limiting yourself to using the plow at full angle only because you are worried about a lack of a crossover doesn't sound like a good solution to me.
Oh it won't be long before it sports a new edge. Next check from paying customer will probably go right down to the plow dealership.I would put on a cutting edge, even if it is only a sacrificial piece of 1/4 x 2 mild steel flat bar. That is what I have used for my snowplow, bolted on with countersunk 1/4 20 bolts and nylock nuts. I flip it over or replace it every 3 yrs or so as needed. The 1/4 20 bolts will snap easily when it is time to renew the edge. The bottom of the plow is like new still, 3 rd cutting edge in 16 years plowing our gravel drive.
Cam
If you are using your plow full angle left/right you aren't using it most efficiently. Plows do their best work when used as close to straight as practical. 2 reasons:
1. The path cleared is the widest possible.
2. A cutting edge perpendicular to the direction of travel "cuts" best. It will clear to the base material best as it is the highest ground pressure in this position.
Limiting yourself to using the plow at full angle only because you are worried about a lack of a crossover doesn't sound like a good solution to me.