8N solenoid issue

[driverdbk]

I searched the site for procedures on testing the starter, I was unsuccessful.

Can you give me direction on this? not sure which wire to pull or what that indicates. Sorry ahead of time for my ignorance on this electrical stuff....bk :confused2:

 

[Soundguy]

your starter is fed by only a single conductor !?!?!?!

I'll give you a hint.

Pull THAT one.

?????

seriously.. one wire from the bat to the solenoid, and one wire or copper xfer bar to the starter.. pop the copper bar or wire on that side loose.

not rocket science her.. this is 30 and 40's era technology.

we use computers.. thius stuff should be super easy.

no 'procedures' needed..

soundguy

 

[driverdbk]

Really? Your going to respond this condescendingly. I came to this site for help, to learn and be helped by people who are here to give that help without making a judgment as you have just done. That is completely arrogant on your part. (arrogant) - having or revealing an exaggerated sense of one's own importance or abilities. If I knew this 30's/40's technology I wouldn't be asking for help. And what does pulling the copper bar do other that disconnect the starter? Is that testing it? I don't think so. YOU act like I am supposed to know this. Well I don't, that is why I came for help. Don't bother responding.

 

[Soundguy]

wasn't trying to be condescending, letting you know this stuff is easy once you set and think about it a moment. it's not like a modern auto with 30 wires all criss-crossed around here and there. it's a ground activated internally hot solenoid that conencts battery to starter.. starter spins.. bendix travels in towards back of flywheel to engage ring gear.. overspeed by engine starting kicks bendix back out to end of shaft.

testing is what?

testing under load?

testing under no load?

do you have the proper shunt ammeter to test the 100-200a loads we are talking about?

measuring shaft side or end play? ( bushings / bearings ) ?

that's the easy part.. can visually inspect for that. side play will cause binding, and that will cause excessive starter current when spinning / and will make it drag, reducing speed... in extreme cases it lets the brushes excessively wear and can damage the armature and cut the field pieces..

did you want to get into it that far.. or were you looking for a go / no go test? need more info that you provided to go on.

if you want to get it fixed.. post back.

if you don't want to get it fixed???? or already know how to do so???

good luck

soundguy

 

[redmantractor]

Lessons learned this day and a very BIG Thank You to Soundguy. Looks like its been awhile since anyone added to this thread but Soundguy want you to know your advice got my tractor up and running this morning. Got an 8N from a local church that bought a zero turn and didn't need the tractor or brushhog anymore. My first tractor BTW. The second day it wouldn't start, just clicking. Everyone knows the sound of a dying battery. Did some research online and tried to take the cheap route first and replace the solenoid. BAD NEWS. Long story short, miswired the solenoid and ended up buying a new battery anyway. Reading this thread and following soundman's advice, correctly wired the solenoid, reconnected the battery cables and SUCCESS. The tractor is running like a champ.

Lessons Learned:
1. Do it right the first time.
2. Don't believe everything you read online.
3. Go with your gut. It probably knows more than you think.

Thanks again soundman.
redmantractor

 

[Soundguy]

Glad this old post had something in it for ya.