rider7767
Platinum Member
OK. I miss understood. Congrats on the tractor.
A loving home for a neglected MF1455v
- Thread starter 1stDeuce
- Start date
SteveM70
Silver Member
OP
1stDeuce
Gold Member
The good and the not so good...
The good:
My plan to take some of the pop out of the red by adding a bit of black worked! Here's original Sunrise red on the cap, vs mixed with one level teaspoon of semi-gloss black:
Sprayed about a quart and a third on the box and fork frame right after work. I decided to brush paint the cutting edges black too, while I was at it. Came out this morning to a nicely dried box blade and pallet fork frame!
Going to build a gooseneck trailer, and a co-worker and I used his to pick up the steel yesterday. I wanted to get it unloaded so he could take his trailer home, so I used my sweet bucket hooks to get it done. This was the heaviest bundle, comprised of 3"x4.1# and 5"x6.7#, about 1200lbs. Tractor picked it right up off the trailer, but this is as high as the loader would lift it. Actually, after lifting the first time, I had to put it back down and hook up the box so I had enough traction to safely move around in 2wd. (Front tires at 20psi, a little low for maxing out the loader.) I was a little surprised that this was as high as the loader would lift it, but it could curl more if I needed to go a bit higher.
The not so good:
Turns out my loader isn't Global/Euro QA like I thought... The lower pin brackets on my bucket are much less offset from the upper hooks than the "John Deere Global" mounts on the pallet fork frame... Meaning the latch pins on my system don't catch anything, and the frame just hangs by the upper hooks.
Top view. Global offset between the upper and lower lugs is about 6", while the offset on my bucket is more like 2". The lower lugs of the global setup are also about 2" too high. Assuming this Titan "John Deere Global" mount is the same as normal "Global/Euro".
It still works like this, just have to be careful not to lower too much and lift the hooks off the loader. I'll make two more lugs and weld them on sooner than later.
Now that I'm looking, it appears there's ISO Global/Euro, as well as SAE Global, and possibly even different "categories" of Global... Who knows. I'll make this work, and be done with it.
The good:
My plan to take some of the pop out of the red by adding a bit of black worked! Here's original Sunrise red on the cap, vs mixed with one level teaspoon of semi-gloss black:
Sprayed about a quart and a third on the box and fork frame right after work. I decided to brush paint the cutting edges black too, while I was at it. Came out this morning to a nicely dried box blade and pallet fork frame!
Going to build a gooseneck trailer, and a co-worker and I used his to pick up the steel yesterday. I wanted to get it unloaded so he could take his trailer home, so I used my sweet bucket hooks to get it done. This was the heaviest bundle, comprised of 3"x4.1# and 5"x6.7#, about 1200lbs. Tractor picked it right up off the trailer, but this is as high as the loader would lift it. Actually, after lifting the first time, I had to put it back down and hook up the box so I had enough traction to safely move around in 2wd. (Front tires at 20psi, a little low for maxing out the loader.) I was a little surprised that this was as high as the loader would lift it, but it could curl more if I needed to go a bit higher.
The not so good:
Turns out my loader isn't Global/Euro QA like I thought... The lower pin brackets on my bucket are much less offset from the upper hooks than the "John Deere Global" mounts on the pallet fork frame... Meaning the latch pins on my system don't catch anything, and the frame just hangs by the upper hooks.
Top view. Global offset between the upper and lower lugs is about 6", while the offset on my bucket is more like 2". The lower lugs of the global setup are also about 2" too high. Assuming this Titan "John Deere Global" mount is the same as normal "Global/Euro".
It still works like this, just have to be careful not to lower too much and lift the hooks off the loader. I'll make two more lugs and weld them on sooner than later.
Now that I'm looking, it appears there's ISO Global/Euro, as well as SAE Global, and possibly even different "categories" of Global... Who knows. I'll make this work, and be done with it.
Last edited:
OP
1stDeuce
Gold Member
Productive Saturday
First thing Sat morning I ran up the road to help a friend move some 3pt equipment away from what has become the kids play area. A 3-bottom furrow plow, a 4' mower, and a grader blade. He offered up the blade if I could use it, and I decided I could.
I took it home and did some fixing on it. Put it back together with some new pins of the correct size to take the wobble out, and it seems good to go.
Saturday afternoon, I decided it was a good tome to fix the pallet fork frame. I cut off the lower ears, made some 1/2" plate triangle pieces to mount the ears to, and then welded it all back up, using the tractor side of the QA for a jig. Sounds easy, but it was a lot of work! Brushed on some more red, and called it done.
If you look closely, you can see where the ears originally were. I cut them off with my Eastwood Versa-Cut 40 Plasma cutter. 3/4" is definitely as much as it'll handle... Now that I'm looking at the picture, I notice that you can see my three favorite tools, all laid out: Hobart 190 welder, Harbor Freight porta-band, and my plasma cutter.
Played with the pallet forks cleaning up some brush. It works pretty well for scooping up old piles and moving them together for a big burn. Also does fairly good plucking Tamarisk bushes out of the ground too.
Hopefully next week we'll hear from the bank that we can schedule closing, and get this mess up to the property soon to start working before it gets cold...
I'm busy this week, but come next weekend, it's going to be full tilt trailer-making time!
I'll work on the model some this week for a cut list, but here's a sketch I did a while ago to get an idea of the proportions. 28'x102" deck, pierced beam cross bars, drive-over fenders will stick up 3-1/2" above the deck. (I wanted to be able to set a shipping container on it, so this way I can use a few 4x4's and it won't squash the fenders.)
First thing Sat morning I ran up the road to help a friend move some 3pt equipment away from what has become the kids play area. A 3-bottom furrow plow, a 4' mower, and a grader blade. He offered up the blade if I could use it, and I decided I could.
I took it home and did some fixing on it. Put it back together with some new pins of the correct size to take the wobble out, and it seems good to go.Saturday afternoon, I decided it was a good tome to fix the pallet fork frame. I cut off the lower ears, made some 1/2" plate triangle pieces to mount the ears to, and then welded it all back up, using the tractor side of the QA for a jig. Sounds easy, but it was a lot of work! Brushed on some more red, and called it done.
If you look closely, you can see where the ears originally were. I cut them off with my Eastwood Versa-Cut 40 Plasma cutter. 3/4" is definitely as much as it'll handle... Now that I'm looking at the picture, I notice that you can see my three favorite tools, all laid out: Hobart 190 welder, Harbor Freight porta-band, and my plasma cutter.
Played with the pallet forks cleaning up some brush. It works pretty well for scooping up old piles and moving them together for a big burn. Also does fairly good plucking Tamarisk bushes out of the ground too.
Hopefully next week we'll hear from the bank that we can schedule closing, and get this mess up to the property soon to start working before it gets cold...
I'm busy this week, but come next weekend, it's going to be full tilt trailer-making time!
I'll work on the model some this week for a cut list, but here's a sketch I did a while ago to get an idea of the proportions. 28'x102" deck, pierced beam cross bars, drive-over fenders will stick up 3-1/2" above the deck. (I wanted to be able to set a shipping container on it, so this way I can use a few 4x4's and it won't squash the fenders.)
mguitas
Super Member
- Joined
- Aug 22, 2011
- Messages
- 8,056
- Location
- Schuylkill County Pennsylvania
- Tractor
- Massey Ferguson 1423 Hydrostat
1stDeuce the 1400 series is a great series, had no trouble with my 1423.
BKBoiss
Gold Member
Very nice. I like your drive over fenders. I did mine like that and they stick up 2". I can still get under a bundle of lumber on a 4x4 or a pallet and can also tie down to them no problem. One thing I want to mention though, is when I built my trailer it was a rebuild of an old homemade deal (I bought the whole trailer with the neck broke off and wore out axles no tires etc etc for half the price of steel to start) I made the mistake of not calculating or planning very well where to put the axles. I just assumed where the last guy had them would be good and now I kick myself all the time. You load a vehicle on there and the darn thing is almost balanced with no hitch weight.
OP
1stDeuce
Gold Member
Trailer model mostly done. Got everything to lay out so it all makes sense. I'll start piercing the beams tonight, and get the main frame welded up by this weekend hopefully. Shouldn't have any issues with tongue weight the way I have it set up. With 28', most loads can be positioned to get good weight on the truck.
View attachment 484278
View attachment 484278
OP
1stDeuce
Gold Member
I was using the pallet forks to move a bit more brush into a pile, and noticed that I somehow managed to poke out one of the grill screens... I fixed it yesterday, but to keep it from happening again, thought it best to build a guard...
Here it is pre-guard. I poked out one of the lower screens, and fortunately, it was easy to flatten and clip back into place...
So I went collecting in the junk pile, and came up with this stuff, which I've already cut to length...
I didn't end up putting the tow loops on for now, but perhaps I'll weld a D-ring to the bottom later. Here's the welded up guard...
I brush painted it last night, and tossed it on this morning. I meant for it to have a 1/2" gap to the loader frame, but it's pretty tight... If it rattles, I'll have to enlarge the mounting holes and drop it down a bit. If not, it's good to go. Should keep me from doing much more damage to the grill, I hope!
Here it is pre-guard. I poked out one of the lower screens, and fortunately, it was easy to flatten and clip back into place...
So I went collecting in the junk pile, and came up with this stuff, which I've already cut to length...
I didn't end up putting the tow loops on for now, but perhaps I'll weld a D-ring to the bottom later. Here's the welded up guard...
I brush painted it last night, and tossed it on this morning. I meant for it to have a 1/2" gap to the loader frame, but it's pretty tight... If it rattles, I'll have to enlarge the mounting holes and drop it down a bit. If not, it's good to go. Should keep me from doing much more damage to the grill, I hope!
Adiredneck
Gold Member
Looking good!
PatrickS2222
Gold Member
- Joined
- Feb 6, 2016
- Messages
- 494
- Location
- Brisbane, Australia
- Tractor
- MF35, MF135, MF203 with loader.
You've done well all round! You'll never regret your decision - it would've been hard to beat that bargain. :thumbsup:
You'll never regret your decision - it would've been hard to beat that bargain. :thumbsup: