"Add-a-valve"

chanceu · Mar 22, 2006

\"Add-a-valve\"

Has anyone ever heard of this?

I have been reading several discussions about adding grapples or top and tilts and most of the problems seem to be how to get the hydraulics connected and how to control them.

Searcing the Internet, I found this "add-a-valve" product from V&M Inc.

http://www.vandminc.com/vmsite/vm/list.html

They actually have several products that seem like they would be a good fit for adding hydraulic attachments. I'm no hydraulic (nor tractor for that matter) expert, so I thought I would see if there are any opinions or better yet, any experiences with any of these products.

MadReferee · Mar 22, 2006

Re: \"Add-a-valve\"

The add-a-valve is nothing more than their version of a diverter. You have to have at least one set of remotes already instalded in order for this to work.

chanceu · Mar 22, 2006

Re: \"Add-a-valve\"

Doesn't that depend on how you want to control the implement?

I am trying to figure this stuff out so I am probably wrong, but if this were installed between the loader control valve and cylinders, it would allow the loader joystick to control the loader or attachment.

MadReferee · Mar 22, 2006

Re: \"Add-a-valve\"

Yes, but that is what a diverter does. It connects to a set of valve work ports and diverts the flow, using electronics, from one set of connectors to another.

RFB · Mar 22, 2006

Re: \"Add-a-valve\"

I recently purchased the "Electric Hydraulic Valve Kit" from W. R. Long http://www.wrlonginc.com/valve_kits.htm

It is a pretty slick system; it is an electric solenoid hydraulic valve kit, and it adds an additional full hydro circuit. I have a Curtis power angle snow blade, and with only lift and curl functions for the FEL, I would lose one function to control the blade angle. This system restored/added the additional function, and it comes as a complete kit, and it really is complete, right down to wire loom for a clean install. The control is a rocker switch on the new joystick head (supplied in the kit). The folks at Long were very patient and explained the entire process.

The price is right around $500, and the only thing you might need a few more of is wire ties.

JRP · Mar 22, 2006

Re: \"Add-a-valve\"

It looks to me like it almost plugs into an existing valve body, but gives two sets of outputs. I like this because there would be no hoses to cut or other fittings to buy. Almost like a cube tap for an extension cord. Is this right? It could also be easily removed.

PILOON · Mar 22, 2006

Re: \"Add-a-valve\"

Interesting and timely post.

I am about to make a few 'add on' functions on my tractor and all call for more hydraulics.

I lucked out on EBay and won a manual CROSS Mfg 6 port manual divertor valve that will handle my loader valve dual functions as I plan to add a bucket clamp shortly.

Then luck carried on and I won a 2.5" Prince cylinder (8" throw) and also a BOSCH 12 volt 3 port divertor that will now be used for the hydraulic 3pt lift and tilt that I am making.
The cylinder is 'just right' for the lift and I already had the correct cylinder for the tilt.

My tractor has 2 pumps.
An aux for the loader and the factory for the 3pt that has an optional 2nd circuit.
The 2nd circuit has but one valve and hence a divertor is needed there for the 'lift and tilt'

Only things missing now are fittings, hose and time.
Oh, I also need the 'swivil balls ends' to weld onto the 2 1/2" cylinder.

The Prince cost me $26. and Manual diverter was $30 something and the Bosch 12V was $26.
Never thought I'd actually win at those prices, so I'm all set.

Think I'll post the fabricating processes of the 'lift project' as well as the 'bucket clamp project' when I actually do them.
The lift/tilt is because I wish to better control my back blade for grading.
The blade is about to get some 'guide wheels' as well for more precise grading.

Showes that I have aches and pains from manual blade adjustements! LOL

MadReferee · Mar 22, 2006

Re: \"Add-a-valve\"

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( It looks to me like it almost plugs into an existing valve body, but gives two sets of outputs. I like this because there would be no hoses to cut or other fittings to buy. Almost like a cube tap for an extension cord. Is this right? )</font>

More or less. The gizmo that plugs into the remote output is an electric diverter. There is an activation swtich that is used to switch fluid flow to ouput set A or output set B. The switch is usually mounted on the remote's control lever.

chanceu · Mar 23, 2006

Re: \"Add-a-valve\"

RFB...how do you like that kit? I have been looking at that kit too, but I've heard that it has a low flow and is slow. Of course, that's fine for some things. Just curious.

chanceu · Mar 23, 2006

Re: \"Add-a-valve\"

From my converstation with the manufacturer, that's correct. Basically, if you put male quick couplers on the inlets and female quick couplers on the outlets, you then disconnect your FEL curl lines (assuming online one kit is used), plug the selector valves in where the FEL was, plug the FEL back in to the A outlets, and plug whatever else in to the B outlets. Then your current joystick would operate the FEL as usual and when you pressed the button and moved the joystick left or right, it would operate the other attachment.

That is where this kit is different than the kit from W.R. Long. The W.R. Long kit actually adds a third function where the V&M kit uses one control for two functions. The W.R. Long kit is connected in series to the power beyond port and the attachment is connected directly to it. The rocker switch is then used to extend or retract the attachment and can do it while raising and curling the FEL.