Adding rear remotes to a Kubota L3240

[TMGT]

In Dec. I bought a used L3240, also picked up a ditch bank flail mower. The tractor didn't have any rear remotes so I checked with the dealer first as they the remotes are pretty integrated on this model, unless you just want to bolt a valve to the ROPS, which I didn't want to do.

Dealer wanted $2500+ for 3 remotes (2 float) which probably isn't too bad, but the stories of excessive leakdown and the fact that they couldn't even even order them at the time due to parts shortages made me decide to build my own.

I decided to go with Prince SV sectional valves, 2 float and 1 double acting.

It's a decent size valve and took some trial and error to get it to fit under the operators station, the bracket is 5/16 (because I have a lot of it laying around) and mounts off the through bolts for the valve. It mounts to the rear axle housing using the mounting points for the rear of the operator platform.

Next was figuring out how to get the linkages over to the small opening where the levers were going to be, most of the valve actually sits under the operators station! There was some trial and error but luckily the plasma table made life a lot easier duplicating parts and making small changes.

I used a sealed studded ball joint type rod end, this proved to make things more difficult as they are bulkier then the factory flat steel bar on a pin.

It took some finessing, but was finally able to make them all fit.

 

[dstig1]

Nice work so far. You got more left to do or just haven't posted all the pics yet?

 

[TMGT]

Nice work so far. You got more left to do or just haven't posted all the pics yet?

Thanks, I have the mechanical side done, still need to mount the QC's and finish plumbing everything up. Was just getting ready to post the next group of photos.

 

[TMGT]

Next up I had to make the levers, luckily I have a lot of 1/8" scrap material to make the pivot mount for the levers as it took a couple tries to get it exactly how I wanted.

The levers themselves are 3/16", I stepped their height to be able to get to them since they are soo close together.
I ended up putting a slight bend in the outer 2 levers as it was hard to easier operate the first lever being so close to the seat.

Having the cnc plasma table is nice, way easier and quicker to make things like this pin retainer, I just used a 5/16 bolt for the lever pivot.

The levers have flanged bronze bushings, I did go to my dealer and order the plastic sleeves and grips for the levers to give it a more factory look. Here im doing final assembly (hopefully) of the lever assembly.

The adjusters I had to extend, all I could find with LH/RH threaded were about 3in and too short, so I machined a piece of stainless, cut the rod, and extended them.

Here's a better view of how the valve is mounted. The material had some light pitting from sitting around, unfortunate it ended up on the outside and the paint makes it look worse.

 

[TMGT]

I have started the plumbing. So far I've made up the feed line from the loader valve to the remote.

Made up the line from the remote to the 3ph, although I'm not thrilled with it and am trying to figure out a better setup.

And made up a fitting for the return to tank, it's just a push in fitting with an o-ring so I ended up taking a -6 jic to SAE 8 fitting and machining down the SAE 8 side to fit.

Then I welded on a retainer to hold it in place.

Here it is mounted up.

This is where I'm currently at, unfortunately my work schedule has been soo busy since I started this project I haven't been making quick progress. I started in early Jan and am just now getting to this point. Hopefully the last little bit will go quicker as I really need the tractor back up and running for spring!

 

[LD1]

Good work so far.

Have you decided how you are gonna mount the couplers yet?

I did similar on a MX. Link in my signature

 

[TMGT]

Good work so far.

Have you decided how you are gonna mount the couplers yet?

I did similar on a MX. Link in my signature

They'll be mounted around to the factory location, just going to use bulkhead connectors on a bracket with hoses to connect.

Another reason to do my own is I'm using flat face couplers, I have a few implements that will be changed out regularly and I hate the mess that standard ag type QC make.

You're lucky, the MX has a bit more room, there's no way I could have fit a valve under the side cover.
The 40 and up series GL are definitely not the easiest model to add remotes to cleanly!

 

[Smokeydog]

Great fabrication skills! Good write up and pictures detailing your progress. Giving me inspiration to try something like that for my M59.
Question on the float valves, they allow double acting positions and float detent? Where did you source the valve from?Would like a similar type mower and see the advantage of that type of control.
Have been switching to flat face QDs and like them. Also had to develop techniques and tools deal with pressure buildup.

Looking forward to see your progress.

 

[TMGT]

Great fabrication skills! Good write up and pictures detailing your progress. Giving me inspiration to try something like that for my M59.
Question on the float valves, they allow double acting positions and float detent? Where did you source the valve from?Would like a similar type mower and see the advantage of that type of control.
Have been switching to flat face QDs and like them. Also had to develop techniques and tools deal with pressure buildup.

Looking forward to see your progress.

Thanks, I got my valves from Surplus Center. Yes they work as a normal 2way valve and then go into detent for float, just like a loader valve does.

This is the 2 in the detent position.

And in normal center position.

 

[TMGT]

I've been getting my flat face couplers from from this company Hose Quick Disconnects - Flush Face Set- Skid Steer Set

Only way I can afford them.
Have been using some on my other tractor for the grapple for years with no problems.