Adding rear remotes to kubota l35

   / Adding rear remotes to kubota l35
  • Thread Starter
#13  
I will try to explain how my tractor is set up, remember that I am a novice so bear with me. My FEL valve has 7 lines: 4 going to control the loader, the hose hooked to the "in" port comes from the hydraulic block under the seat, the hose that is hooked to the "out" port runs back to the hydraulic tank, the hose hooked into the PB port runs to the back of the tractor to hook into the backhoe.
After looking at it again I wanted to see if I could go from FEL PB port(Which now goes to the BH) to the inlet of my new valve and hook the BH line inot the PB port of the new valve. It seems like it would be the same as tying into the lines at the back of the tractor without having to run so many lines. If this would work would I run a line from the "out" port on the new valve and tee into the out port on the FEL valve, which runs back to the tank.
Also this is the valve that I got:
Prince One Spool Control Valve, Model# HC-V-R22 | Hydraulic Valves | Northern Tool + Equipment
 
   / Adding rear remotes to kubota l35 #14  
Are you going to connect your BH to the remote valve?
 
   / Adding rear remotes to kubota l35 #15  
If you are going to connect the inlet of the remote valve to the backhoe supply, why not connect the outlet of the remote valve to the backhoe return? You could just get mating quick disconnects to plug your remote into the backhoe connections. You would not need a power beyond plug in the new valve nor would you have to tee into any existing lines. One issue is that you could not use the remote and the three point or the backhoe at the same time.
 
   / Adding rear remotes to kubota l35
  • Thread Starter
#16  
That sounds easier than what I was going to do. I found an older post from 09 that posed the same question and here is what was told to him

"This is really a straightforward and clean deal.
With the backhoe removed, you normally connect the jumper hose back onto the tractor so the hitch works after you move your two handles to allow flow to the hitch and open the tank port.

Take the QA hose and connect it to your aftermarket valve stack P port (pump/supply) - you can have as many valves/circuits as needed. The valve(s) must be open center type and able to handle 11 GPM flow at rated engine speed and 3000 PSI rated pressure.

The power beyond (PB) port or the return from the stack then has to be plumbed where the QA hose normally connects on the tractor.

The auxiliary valve stack / Top n Tilt will be upstream of the hitch circuit so it is important to attach is as above."





What I am going for is to be able to have a remote at the back of the tractor when the backhoe is off. I would possibly be using the remote with an implement on the 3 pt. hitch so I was trying to figure out a way to have the use of both at the same time. Mostly I will be using the remote for hay rake and tedder, they both have hydraulic fold for transport, the only other thing that I would possibly use it for is a post driver.

I found a picture of one that was done previously and they said that they had full function of 3 pt. with the valve.
http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/...d1012583368-top-n-tilt-5-105697-pdc_00232.jpg

I think that I will plumb it like this the only difference is that my valve will be mounted up front and I will have to run the inlet, outlet, and the 2 remote lines to the back.
 
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   / Adding rear remotes to kubota l35 #17  
You stated that you have a lever on the back that you switch between backhoe on and backhoe off and when the lever is in the backhoe on position the three point does not work. You also said you have to connect the backhoe connections together to complete the circuit when the backhoe is off. I am guessing that the backhoe is in the power beyond circuit ahead of the three point and that the lever either routes return oil from the backhoe connection to tank or to the three point valve. If that is the case, then you need a valve with a power beyond port to use the three point lift. Your back hoe in connection would go to the in port on the remote valve. The power beyond would got the backhoe out connection on the tractor. You could tee in the out (tank) line from the remote to the tank line from the FEL valve.

You really need to figure out your tractors circuit. With the lever in the backhoe off position, does the pump dead head if you disconnect the line between the two backhoe connections? If so, then I would say my assumption above is correct. If not, then you will not be able to use the backhoe connections to power your remote.

It is common for the backhoe to be in the power beyond circuit that feeds the three point. The backhoe return line can drain through the three point control valve to tank with minimum back pressure because you are not using the three point with the backhoe. However, if you are going to use the three point, then you should feed it with a power beyond port.
 
   / Adding rear remotes to kubota l35
  • Thread Starter
#18  
I am not real sure what you mean by dead heading when the selector lever is in the 3 pt position. From the best I can figure out what you described should work. What do I need to do to confirm that this set up is how you described? I have tried to find a schematic of the hydraulic system but have had no luck. Any ideas?
 
   / Adding rear remotes to kubota l35 #19  
By 'dead head' I mean blocking the flow which causes all the oil to dump over the relief valve.

If the hose on the back of the tractor for the backhoe is the 'in' or supply pressure for the backhoe, then with the tractor off, you could take the quick disconnect fitting off the hose and put the hose in a clean bucket. Make sure the three point lift is down. Put the diverter valve in the three point position and put the three point lever in the raised position. Start the tractor at idle. Is the bucket filling with oil? Does the three point not raise? If so, then hose is part of the power beyond loop and you can put your remote in series with it by using the backhoe connections. If not, then you would have to put the remote valve in series with the power beyond line from the FEL valve.

If the hose on the back of the tractor is for the return line from the backhoe, then you would need to get another hose and mating quick disconnect for the other backhoe connection (possibly off the backhoe) to do the test I described above.

Another method to test the circuit is to start the tractor with the hose disconnected. First, with the tractor at idle, curl your FEL buck all the way against the stop and briefly hold the control valve lever in the curl position. You can hear the engine strain as the pump produces maximum pressure. You should also hear some hydraulic noise as oil goes through the relief valve at high velocity.

Now if you start the tractor with the diverter valve lever in the three point position and the backhoe loop disconnected do you hear the same noise? Will the three point lift rise? Do not let the tractor run long if you hear the hydraulic noise or hear the engine lugging. The tractor may not even start. If it sounds like the starter is straining excessively and turning over slowly, then stop. It means that the hose is supplying the three point.
 
   / Adding rear remotes to kubota l35 #20  
FF110, I have a L35 and added a grapple to the loader. What I did 1st was just pulled the backhoes lines off and used that for the grapple. I mounted a Valve beside the loader vale bank. Worked great for what I needed until I wanted to use the backhoe at the same time. Not a problem when the backhoe was off the machine but when it was on and arms or boom settled I would have to put the hoses back on to raise it. Became a pain in the azz because I started using the grapple for brush, stumps etc while using the backhoe for rooting out stumps. I also have a power angle blade for it and need to be able to use hoe and the angle at same time.
So I decided I could just T the backhoe lines. Nope that didn't work either, pull the grapple valve and the hoe would move. I still haven't changed the lines back because I haven't had time yet but now that it's winter I'm gonna play with the system and finally figure it out.
FYI, not sure if you have the 3 point hitch arms for yours or not but if you do could you measure them for me? I don't have the factory ones, I rebuilt a set from some other tractor but my measurements are a little off and it's causing me some problems. I just need the total length from ball to ball on them. I think mine are a little short. I've built a lot of stuff for mine that might interest you, a few pics are on arboristsite.com. Have to join the site to see pics. I built a cab, snow blade and a few buckets last winter. Search there using my user name, same setup as here.
 
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