Addition of plug and switches to run sprayer

   / Addition of plug and switches to run sprayer #1  

Chaostamer

Bronze Member
Joined
Jan 28, 2012
Messages
74
Location
Viola, ID
Tractor
Mahindra 3215 w/ FEL & Kubota M6040 w FEL
I just bought a used sprayer that has four Teejet Directovalve control valves on it. I need to add a switched power source to it. I am thinking of hooking it on my Mahindra 3215HS and using a 6-way round plug for the electrical connection. The switches (4 min - could add 2 other switches for lights) I understand need to be waterproof, but I don't see a great place to position them. My search for a switch box that is affordable has been useless. Here are my questions.

1. Can I add this electrical load to the tractor? What things do I need to pay attention to as I do have lights added to the tractor and am planning on upgrading them (especially when I found water inside my waterproof lights yesterday)?
2. Does anyone have a lead on a 4 to 6 gang switch that is waterproof that I don't have to sell my first born for?
3. Does anyone have a suggestions on where to add toggle or rocker switches on this unit?

I would also welcome links or suggestions on the light project, but that is another issue for another search.
 
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   / Addition of plug and switches to run sprayer #2  
Look for ATV or Marine switch panels. You can get cheap and probably good enough all the way up to expensive and reliable.
 
   / Addition of plug and switches to run sprayer #3  
I値l be the first to say I don稚 know your tractor or the Teejet Directovale system? So just my thoughts..

#1 鼎an I add this electrical load to the tractor??*
Yes, you just need to power / wire it & fuse it correctly. The Teejet Directovale look like they draw 2.5 Amps per valve so if you are powering all 4 at any one time you need a minimum of 10 Amps for the valves alone then the lighting is an additional load depending on the lighting you use. If you are using LED lights I would guess you are ok with a 20 Amp Circuit feeding your six switches. You can run a new wire from the battery (fused at 20 Amps) to power your switches as a whole or you can wire an Aux fuse block with a fused 20Amp circuit to power & fuse each switch / load individually?

#2 . Does anyone have a lead on a 4 to 6 gang switch that is waterproof that I don't have to sell my first born for?
I did the same thing & wound up purchasing CONTURA X series sealed switches from OTRATTTW.net mostly because I could customize the text & they match our NH switches? Not the cheapest but I liked the final outcome. They also sell the bezels to make them look like they are ganged together. I used them to make groups of 3, 2 & a single on our dash ( I think they look factory) but you can do 4 or 6 together easily or break them up as I did.

#3 I can help you with as I don稚 know the unit?

Here are some pics of the switches & aux fuse block I added....

New Switches Installed 2.jpg Aux Fuse Block.jpg
 
   / Addition of plug and switches to run sprayer
  • Thread Starter
#5  
Look for ATV or Marine switch panels. You can get cheap and probably good enough all the way up to expensive and reliable.

Thanks for the lead. I have been looking at them. I wasn't sure the back side would be protected enough.
 
   / Addition of plug and switches to run sprayer
  • Thread Starter
#6  
dlctg - thanks for the answers. If I pull the aux fuse box, do I connect direct to the battery or daisy chain off the original fuse box? And can I overload the overall available power for the tractor?

I like the pics - very helpful and looks great. I just don't have a great place for those rocker switches. They need what looks like 2" on the backside to make it work. Is that about right?
 
   / Addition of plug and switches to run sprayer
  • Thread Starter
#7  
i7win7 - thanks for the thought. I actually don't have a cigarette lighter/power port. Besides, I will be on and off with the sprayer enough throughout the year that I would like to have something more permanent.
 
   / Addition of plug and switches to run sprayer
  • Thread Starter
#8  
I have been looking around more. It seems that the clearance behind the rocker panel needs to be around 1.5 to 2" after factoring in wire connectors. Is there a product that can extend off the dash that would give me more space behind for the wiring?
 
   / Addition of plug and switches to run sprayer #9  
I'd wire off the battery. Large fuse to a new fuse box and fuse each function separately using appropriate size wire. I'd build/buy a switch box to mount on the right fender. I think you have a grab handle you can remove and use those mounting holes.
 
   / Addition of plug and switches to run sprayer #10  
dlctg - thanks for the answers. If I pull the aux fuse box, do I connect direct to the battery or daisy chain off the original fuse box? And can I overload the overall available power for the tractor?

I like the pics - very helpful and looks great. I just don't have a great place for those rocker switches. They need what looks like 2" on the backside to make it work. Is that about right?

Chaostamer - So like Michael In Tennessee - "I'd wire off the battery. Large fuse to a new fuse box and fuse each function separately using appropriate size wire."
That is what I would do... Fuse the main feed wire from the battery to the Aux fuse box & then run your accessories from there with their own fuse.

If I looked up the specs on those Teejet Directovalves correctly (@ 2.5 amps each) & you are adding additional LED lights I would venture you will have no issues with the tractor electrical system. The bigger issue would be not wiring it correctly,; for instance tapping into an existing wire for power that isn't sized correctly for the additional load you are adding to it. It is why I Don't like tapping in to the stock harness, whenever possible, manufacturers tend to size circuits & wires based on there expected purpose (load), so they rarely oversize wire.

Yes you estimate is correct, the switches I have need a couple inches. There are many lower profile switches out there (I was just trying to match the NH switches already in the dash). Again as Michael in Tenn said you could just make your own control switch box. Does not need to be fancy a simple waterproof electronics box & some switches is all you need like the one below. (they come indifferent sizes)

Pinfox Waterproof Electronic ABS Plastic Junction Project Box Enclosure 2mm by 12mm by 75mm (Black) - - Amazon.com

I'v done similar switch box builds for certain implements, like our debris blower. I wanted the switches to stay on the tractor for the seasonal use of the blower, Even when the blower is removed to use a different implement; but then at the end of the fall season I easily pull the switches & harness off to store with the blower. Below are a couple of pic.

RAD Control Box Mounted.jpg
It's is just a weather tight electrical box & cover that I added the switches & re-settable circuit breaker to.

RAD Control Box Quick Disconnect.jpg
It mounts to the handrail / grab-bar with just a couple of swing out pipe clamps & some knobs.

RAD Wire Harness Disconnects & Spring Support.jpg
After the switch box is mounted for the season I have 2 disconnects to un-plug & the blower comes off & reconnects easily.


However, if you don't want build it you can buy one made... the sealed waterproof one are not that cheap but if you tractor is kept inside you might be able to get away with some thing like this:
Amazon.com: ONLINE LED STORE 6-Gang 12V Rocker Switch Box [6 Amp Max.] [12 AWG Wires][12 Volt DC] SPST On/Off Rocker Toggle Switch Panel Box for Jeep Auto Automotive Lights Car Marine Boat Truck Vehicles & More: Automotive

Again it is not a sealed unit (then again neither is the Dash on my tractor), so I probably open it up & dielectric grease all the connections & maybe even silicone the assembly joints... it is priced right (I don't own one but might give it a try)
 
 
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