Advice on Moving Dirt with Kubota BX2230
- Thread starter ky8t
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LBrown59
Super Star Member
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- Oct 27, 2004
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- 2003 Kubota BX1500/2004 Kubota Bx23/2005 Kubota BX1500
If it is a big pile of dirt (tall) you want to drive into the pile with bucket level just off the ground. Go slow and as you drive in, start lifting AND curling the bucket at the same time, not just lift. You will "slice" off the dirt that way and it will be a lot easier on the tractor. You want to think of it like you are whittling a piece of wood where you cut into it and cut off a slice. It takes a little practice to get the sequence right, but when you do, you'll know it. The bucket will fill big on the way up, that's when you know you got it all.
Good luck and Welcome!
What he said ! ......
The only thing I might be able to add to that fine description is that, as you are "curling" and lifting the bucket into the pile while moving forward, this is doing three important things 1. the lifting is putting more pressure on the front tires (traction) 2. the increasing angle of the bucket bottom wedging into the pile is helping to lift the bucket through the pile 3. this moving/curling/lifting action should fill your bucket "big" (per 3RRL).
Working smart with these little machines is as important as working safe.
Also would strongly second suggestions on holding off on other tires for the time being.
As well, get some weight on the back to balance that loader for both safety and traction.
Regards
Sherweld
I also have a fairly small machine with a loader (JD 4100). At first I was disappointed that the loader hydraulics stalled when trying to dig and fill the bucket from a large pile. After I learned how to scoop efficiently, now it doesn't bother me.
One other thing comes to mind, though. If the hydraulic capacity was increased, the amount of ballast on the rear would need to be increased proportionately to keep the machine safe. Otherwise, when you did bite off more than it could safely lift, instead of stalling, you would find the machine tipping face-first into the pile!
Increasing the ballast quickly leads to needing more power to get all that weight to move around and not get stuck. Its a cycle that is counter to the idea of having a small, light-weight machine in the first place.
Another thought is to use a smaller bucket. My JD can mount a 48, 54, or 60 inch bucket. I wanted the 54, but the dealer talked me into taking the 60 (because that is what he had in stock). At first, I thought about taking the bucket back and making the dealer get me a 48 because it would keep me from trying to load more than the machine could lift. However, later, as I learned how to use the machine efficiently, there are many reasons to keep the large bucket. Even if it can't dig and lift a full bucket of wet, sticky clay from the bottom of a tightly packed pile, when using the bucket for spreading and leveling, wider is better, and lighter materials like loose sand, or removed sod, etc, the bigger bucket is just right.
- Rick
One other thing comes to mind, though. If the hydraulic capacity was increased, the amount of ballast on the rear would need to be increased proportionately to keep the machine safe. Otherwise, when you did bite off more than it could safely lift, instead of stalling, you would find the machine tipping face-first into the pile!
Increasing the ballast quickly leads to needing more power to get all that weight to move around and not get stuck. Its a cycle that is counter to the idea of having a small, light-weight machine in the first place.
Another thought is to use a smaller bucket. My JD can mount a 48, 54, or 60 inch bucket. I wanted the 54, but the dealer talked me into taking the 60 (because that is what he had in stock). At first, I thought about taking the bucket back and making the dealer get me a 48 because it would keep me from trying to load more than the machine could lift. However, later, as I learned how to use the machine efficiently, there are many reasons to keep the large bucket. Even if it can't dig and lift a full bucket of wet, sticky clay from the bottom of a tightly packed pile, when using the bucket for spreading and leveling, wider is better, and lighter materials like loose sand, or removed sod, etc, the bigger bucket is just right.
- Rick
EdC
Gold Member
ky8t
Welcome to TBN!
Your tractor should be able to lift a full bucket of dirt, probably just a minor repair. Don't lift all that weight until you have a bit more weight in the back though. I have a 5 foot rear blade, just the bade though, not a box blade and my 24 hp tractor can pull it okay; most of the time. If it is slick out my R4s lose traction and I have to start taking smaller bites.
I saw that Jay asked about a toothbar, that is probably the most useful attachment I have. It increased my digging efficiency a whole bunch. I have an ATI which is a great toothbar, just way overkill having a 120 pound toothbar an a small machine. Markam is well thought of and there are other brands out there as well.
Welcome to TBN!
Your tractor should be able to lift a full bucket of dirt, probably just a minor repair. Don't lift all that weight until you have a bit more weight in the back though. I have a 5 foot rear blade, just the bade though, not a box blade and my 24 hp tractor can pull it okay; most of the time. If it is slick out my R4s lose traction and I have to start taking smaller bites.
I saw that Jay asked about a toothbar, that is probably the most useful attachment I have. It increased my digging efficiency a whole bunch. I have an ATI which is a great toothbar, just way overkill having a 120 pound toothbar an a small machine. Markam is well thought of and there are other brands out there as well.
Egon
Epic Contributor
We have very similar tractors. Mine is a Kubota B7100. It also seems we have all the same problems.
You want to pile up several loose buckets of dirt and practice loading on those. It takes practice to coordinate the hydro pedal and the joystick actions. Someday I'm thinking I may learn this too!
Many times using only a corner of the bucket to loosen material will work toward getting enough for a full bucket. You may also try and back drag dirt off of a pile to make loading easier.
Don't worry about the tires. You will be able to spin any you put on.
For limiting the drop on the three point you may wish to use the retaining chain.
I like keeping the throttle set at about three quarters or more open for loader work. This gives you lots of circulation so the hydraulics are responsive.
Enclosed a picture of where I have removed dirt. This is just for example purposes and can give you an idea of what can be done.
In the first one the area shown has all been excavated down by the tractor in the picture. The second picture is a trench in the making.
You want to pile up several loose buckets of dirt and practice loading on those. It takes practice to coordinate the hydro pedal and the joystick actions. Someday I'm thinking I may learn this too!
Many times using only a corner of the bucket to loosen material will work toward getting enough for a full bucket. You may also try and back drag dirt off of a pile to make loading easier.
Don't worry about the tires. You will be able to spin any you put on.
For limiting the drop on the three point you may wish to use the retaining chain.
I like keeping the throttle set at about three quarters or more open for loader work. This gives you lots of circulation so the hydraulics are responsive.
Enclosed a picture of where I have removed dirt. This is just for example purposes and can give you an idea of what can be done.
In the first one the area shown has all been excavated down by the tractor in the picture. The second picture is a trench in the making.
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LBrown59
Super Star Member
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- Oct 27, 2004
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- 2003 Kubota BX1500/2004 Kubota Bx23/2005 Kubota BX1500
A BH works good for this also.
pintodeluxe
Silver Member
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- Oct 17, 2008
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- Bx2230
I skimmed over the responces quickly, and the one thing I did not see mentioned --- 1. First make sure the 4wd is fully engaged, and depress the differential lock (small foot pedal near e-brake lock). Do this every time extra traction is needed like with FEL work, or using a box blade. Hold the lever down as long as it is needed. Do not lock differential in high gear.
2. Bar tires help a great deal. I started with bar tires, and switched to turf tires for mowing a finished lawn. I was shocked at the lack of traction! Depressing the differential lock helps, but wheels can still spin easily on dirt. I now have two sets of tires, each mounted on their own rims. I simply put on the bar tires with an impact wrench when doing any ground engaging work. The turf tires are superior for finish mowing, and don't leave those chevron shapes in the lawn like the bar tires do. I can get away with the turfs for a quick tilling of a flat garden, but I would quickly switch to the bars if I was regrading a lawn.
Best of Luck, Have fun, Be safe, and read that manual twice!
2. Bar tires help a great deal. I started with bar tires, and switched to turf tires for mowing a finished lawn. I was shocked at the lack of traction! Depressing the differential lock helps, but wheels can still spin easily on dirt. I now have two sets of tires, each mounted on their own rims. I simply put on the bar tires with an impact wrench when doing any ground engaging work. The turf tires are superior for finish mowing, and don't leave those chevron shapes in the lawn like the bar tires do. I can get away with the turfs for a quick tilling of a flat garden, but I would quickly switch to the bars if I was regrading a lawn.
Best of Luck, Have fun, Be safe, and read that manual twice!
LBrown59
Super Star Member
- Joined
- Oct 27, 2004
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- 16,851
- Tractor
- 2003 Kubota BX1500/2004 Kubota Bx23/2005 Kubota BX1500
1*I will take Lugs over turfs any day.
2*I have only ever used the bx23 Diff lock a time or two .
99.999 percent of the time I have plenty of traction in 4x4 with no loaded tires and no extra weights without Diff lock engaged.
3*I don't want / need to get into that so I just stick with AGs.
4* I just consider what if any chevron shapes as part of the the desigh/pattern so it don't bug me a bit.
Tractor Factor
Gold Member
With that in mind, I'll add that you want to make it an unconscious habit that, as you back away from a pile with a load of dirt, you immediately lower the bucket. Lower it as you back away, and keep it low to the ground as you transport the load to wherever it's going. Good luck!