Aerator shopping for horse pastures

[dgeesaman]

We keep 6 acres of horse pasture here in the northeast. Our soil is a silty loam and takes up / releases water very slowly. (Our perc came back as "basically none"). Combined with the compaction caused by the horses, it's showing wear.

So I know there are core, spike, and cutting aerators. I expect a 3pt style one of these tools is part of my solution. I appreciate any advice on what aerator and other practices are going to help. I do have some composted manure that would be raked over a cored turf.

Thanks,

David

 

[JimRB]

Does Aerating or Renovating Hay and Pasture Fields Pay
Some Thoughts on Soil Aeration of Pastureland
Here is one that will not pull rocks up like a Hay King. 2014 First Products Aera-vator Landscape/Sod | FIRST PRODUCTS, INC. TIFTON, GA

 

[dgeesaman]

Does Aerating or Renovating Hay and Pasture Fields Pay
Some Thoughts on Soil Aeration of Pastureland
Here is one that will not pull rocks up like a Hay King. 2014 First Products Aera-vator Landscape/Sod | FIRST PRODUCTS, INC. TIFTON, GA

Uh, wow. That aeravator thing is probably more expensive than my tractor. And truck too.

So do you agree that aeration is not useful in pastures?

 

[jeff9366]

Here are more OPINIONS:

Pasture renovation - Yesterday's Tractors

https://www.google.com/?gws_rd=ssl#q=pasture+renovator+results


My first step would be to dig a hole(s) four feet deep so you can climb in an view subsoil composition to that depth. If compaction is visible at some depth, then you can select the necessary tool.


6" hardpan = Angle Iron Field Cultivator or Hay King pasture renovator.
Fred Cain Tractor 7 Shank 3 Point Field Cultivator, Ripper, Tillage Tool, Jitterbug, Field plow, Bermuda grass plow
May not require re-seeding.

8" hardpan = Moldboard Plow, 12" to 16" bottoms. (Disc Harrow required after plowing.)

10" or >10" hardpan = (True) Chisel Plow (Not a Field Cultivator)
Buckeye Tractor Online Catalog Page 14-01 Chisel Plows

http://landoll.com/content/files/1113/6692/2137/Chisel_Plow.pdf

With your tractor you will not be able to go deeper than 18"-24". You will need all the horsepower and traction you can muster to get that deep.

Be sure to get a soil test and add nutrients, including micro-nutrients, suggested by the test for your pasture grass.

I am skeptical either a core aerator or spike aerator will renovate your worn pasture.

 

[dgeesaman]

I hadn't considered digging a "core" hole. I can do that.

Most of my pasture was a yard just one year ago. I don't imagine the compaction is very deep after just one year. I would also expect that if I do something about it annually, then major renovations could be very infrequent.

The water absorption was bad and always will be as a result of the soil type. Runoff is always a consideration, so even if by simply adding holes in the soil that it retains more water, so much the better.

As I read articles and discussions among hay growers I have to wonder if their experience is the same. Similar forage plants of course, but entirely different stresses on the plants.

With there being a possibility that this is a non-value-add practice, I'll definitely rent one first and see if it helps. I'm not above renting a walk-behind and doing a it the slow way just to test the results.

 

[jeff9366]

Your personal situation will almost always ***** others experience, who do not share your situation.

However, that does not mean you will not receive valuable input via T-B-N.

 

[jeff9366]

Most of my pasture was a yard just one year ago. I don't imagine the compaction is very deep after just one year.

This information would have been useful in your #1 post.

Possibly a soil test, nutrients and a core aeration will help. Composted manure is wonderful stuff but you will need at a 2" layer to accomplish much in improving tilth/organic content for the long term.

Have you considered dividing your pasture into two sections and confining the livestock to just one half, rotating every year, maintaining the other half in semi-annual renovation?

I trust you are pulling a Chain Harrow around the field periodically to break up and spread the horse apples.

By the way, do not forget the soil test and addition of nutrients specific to your pasture grass. State-of-the-art pasture grass, fertilized, can be 50% more productive.

Given the additional information you have posted about your property I believe the Field Cultivator would be more effective for you than a core aerator and a relatively cheap aerator/sub-soiler @ $1,000. A Field Cultivator will open your subsoil while leaving you grass roots 90% undamaged.

Dig your four foot deep hole and see what you find.

 

[dgeesaman]

This information should have been in your #1 post.

Possibly a soil test, nutrients and a core aeration will help. Composted manure is wonderful stuff but you will need at least a 2" layer to accomplish much in improving tilth/organic content for the long term.

Have you considered dividing your pasture into two sections and confining the livestock to just one section, rotating every year?

I have not yet done the soil test but it is the simple and obvious starting point.

I don't have grand expectations about the compost except to get rid of it. If you've kept horses you'll understand.

We have our pasture area divided into 6 paddocks and 7 pastures. The paddocks are sacrifice areas. There are 11 horses and they get turned out in pairs so there is some room for rotation but not year on / year off. They are turned out 12hrs/day and never on the pasture from late fall to mid-spring. It would seem the best time to restore turf is the off season.

David

 

[nc redneck]

A overseeder will do a great job on pastures. Aeration, fertilize and seed all with one pass. According to many other posters the ground driven ones are almost worthless unless you use a rototiller first. Get a pto or hydraulic driven one. They are expensive to buy and maintain. I ended up buying one after a long search of a place to rent one. Some co-ops have them available from what I understand. I looked for 2 years before finding one in decent shape and price. I have a 5 foot one and it works my Kioti 45. Hard to believe as heavy as it is but hard packed dirt can make it jump around. Blade replacement is expensive ( around 60 to 80 on 5 footer ). It will make your pastures look like new if you afford to feed it seed and fertilizer.
I have local company do lime with one of there large spreader trucks after soil test.
Good Luck
Scott

 

[bigcut]

I live in the Harrisburg, PA area and I would be really interested in learning of your progress, in terms of soil tests, soil feeding and in general how you progress.
Thanks,
John