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747driver
Veteran Member
Its on my calendar. I need to get a spare Forrest Woodworker II saw blade....cheaper at the shows.
Airless spray gun or HVLP
- Thread starter 747driver
- Start date
Its on my calendar. I need to get a spare Forrest Woodworker II saw blade....cheaper at the shows.
EddieWalker
Epic Contributor
I have two Graco sprayers. A big one that I use for spraying latex on the exterior of houses, or on interior walls. It works great on five gallon buckets of paint. The other is a HVLP sprayer that I use for oil based paints when doing cabinets, trim and doors. Depending on what I'm spaying, I have four different nozzle sizes for it. There is a huge difference between paints and the finish that you are going after. For kitchen cabinets, I use my largest nozzle to get it fairly thick. This is the opposite of spraying a car or metal. You need to hide the grain of the wood, and create a glass like surface for cleaning. This means you are spraying in every angle possible. HVLP is the only way to get that perfect, glass like finish that only oil based enamel can achieve.
I've come to hate spraying kitchen cabinets and for the last couple of years, told my clients to hire a pro to do it. They will spend several days to an entire week sanding, prepping and then taping everything up with plastic. Spraying takes a couple of hours, but the prep work is what counts the most!!!! The house that I'm working on right now was just painted. I was doing trim work and sheetrock repair while they where doing prep work. 8 guys spent almost two weeks getting it ready to spray enamel. That took two days. They sprayed all the doors, trim and cabinets. Then they painted all the walls and ceiling with rollers and brushes. It's an impressive thing to see a crew of pros that are working hard, getting it done!!!!
That was $15,000 and the cheapest bid. The other guys wanted $20,000 to $25,000 They did a pretty good job, but my client is paying me to fix what they got wrong, over sprayed or just didn't get really good coverage. She is very wealthy, very picky, and a fast payer. She went with the low bid and will still be thousands under the other bids after it's all said and done. Probably less then $1,000 worth of work for me to fix.
I've come to hate spraying kitchen cabinets and for the last couple of years, told my clients to hire a pro to do it. They will spend several days to an entire week sanding, prepping and then taping everything up with plastic. Spraying takes a couple of hours, but the prep work is what counts the most!!!! The house that I'm working on right now was just painted. I was doing trim work and sheetrock repair while they where doing prep work. 8 guys spent almost two weeks getting it ready to spray enamel. That took two days. They sprayed all the doors, trim and cabinets. Then they painted all the walls and ceiling with rollers and brushes. It's an impressive thing to see a crew of pros that are working hard, getting it done!!!!
That was $15,000 and the cheapest bid. The other guys wanted $20,000 to $25,000 They did a pretty good job, but my client is paying me to fix what they got wrong, over sprayed or just didn't get really good coverage. She is very wealthy, very picky, and a fast payer. She went with the low bid and will still be thousands under the other bids after it's all said and done. Probably less then $1,000 worth of work for me to fix.
dieselscout80
Veteran Member
I want to spray a sealer/stain on the inside of our barn (20' by 24') to keep the wood bees from eating into the wood.
I was thinking of using a roller, but would a sprayer work and what type?
I have a Harbor Freight HVLP gun, but it only has a 20oz cup, so it would take a bunch of refills. I would think it may also cause lapses in coverage.
I was thinking of using a roller, but would a sprayer work and what type?
I have a Harbor Freight HVLP gun, but it only has a 20oz cup, so it would take a bunch of refills. I would think it may also cause lapses in coverage.
prichard
Veteran Member
That's where you'd want an airless.
Stimw
Elite Member
Depending on the quality of finish you are looking for you could use a cheap pump sprayer.
I have seen them used to spray fences and decks with stains and water seal.
If you got a compressor with a good regulator you could rig the tank with a hose and couple pounds pressure to keep spray consistent.
dieselscout80
Veteran Member
Echoing some comments above, and my own experience so far.
Apollo 5000 hvlp gun with 3M PPS system: the bomb for wood working. All position. Easy clean up for either oil, pre-cat lacquer, water based.
Painful for for latex and enamel -- though it will work with a large needle/jet/air nozzle (they have to match, some parts fit a range of the other parts).
This is a turbine gun. Your basic vacuum cleaner motor with a separate cooling fan for the motor. Multiple stages available, but most don't need the larger size. Uses a garden hose sized hose.
The 2nd method is using a piston engine. Sorry, that was a joke -- 747 pilot. But not far off. Air compressor, regulator, filters.
And airless. Great for general latex/enamel, etc.
1 & 2 can be used with paint pots. That's what fences, barns, etc should be done with. Far faster. Can be rented.
HVLP turbine is a portable way to go, easy to use. From $50-1000, plus turbine (up to $700). Earlex makes on in a complete kit that has two sets of needles. Stores easy, have an associate buy/use one recently. Said it worked very well. Good price quality point. Will be fine for a set of cabinets.
Spray Station HV55 HVLP
Get some 3rd Hand poles to put plastic sheeting up, get a respirator with VOC filters (no that much money). Use pre-cat lacquer if you don't mind the auto body shop smell, it's warm enough to leave windows open. Or, use water base poly; respirator only required until the mist has settled, vs chemicals in pre-cat. Will dry to touch soon enough, but not as durable, takes a day or two longer (to the point of cured-enough to use).
For both: put a box fan in the room, put a layer of filters over it and draw the mist away from the work. In both cases the mist will fall out on the work otherwise. And don't over sand. 180 is plenty for build finishes. Presuming stain grade; paint may not require even that. Acrylic paint probably better than the other choices of paint.
Get good glancing angle light. Portable LED work lights are cheap. Festool's newish pole light is great, but the opposite of cheap. Speaking of that, for a superb finish, look at the Festool Platin or Mirka foam sanding pads for finishes. Use that after a coat or two. Expensive, but you don't need near as much, is the right tool for the job.
Cars, airplanes, cabinets: prep is the work. Spraying is the satisfaction.
Apollo 5000 hvlp gun with 3M PPS system: the bomb for wood working. All position. Easy clean up for either oil, pre-cat lacquer, water based.
Painful for for latex and enamel -- though it will work with a large needle/jet/air nozzle (they have to match, some parts fit a range of the other parts).
This is a turbine gun. Your basic vacuum cleaner motor with a separate cooling fan for the motor. Multiple stages available, but most don't need the larger size. Uses a garden hose sized hose.
The 2nd method is using a piston engine. Sorry, that was a joke -- 747 pilot. But not far off. Air compressor, regulator, filters.
And airless. Great for general latex/enamel, etc.
1 & 2 can be used with paint pots. That's what fences, barns, etc should be done with. Far faster. Can be rented.
HVLP turbine is a portable way to go, easy to use. From $50-1000, plus turbine (up to $700). Earlex makes on in a complete kit that has two sets of needles. Stores easy, have an associate buy/use one recently. Said it worked very well. Good price quality point. Will be fine for a set of cabinets.
Spray Station HV55 HVLP
Get some 3rd Hand poles to put plastic sheeting up, get a respirator with VOC filters (no that much money). Use pre-cat lacquer if you don't mind the auto body shop smell, it's warm enough to leave windows open. Or, use water base poly; respirator only required until the mist has settled, vs chemicals in pre-cat. Will dry to touch soon enough, but not as durable, takes a day or two longer (to the point of cured-enough to use).
For both: put a box fan in the room, put a layer of filters over it and draw the mist away from the work. In both cases the mist will fall out on the work otherwise. And don't over sand. 180 is plenty for build finishes. Presuming stain grade; paint may not require even that. Acrylic paint probably better than the other choices of paint.
Get good glancing angle light. Portable LED work lights are cheap. Festool's newish pole light is great, but the opposite of cheap. Speaking of that, for a superb finish, look at the Festool Platin or Mirka foam sanding pads for finishes. Use that after a coat or two. Expensive, but you don't need near as much, is the right tool for the job.
Cars, airplanes, cabinets: prep is the work. Spraying is the satisfaction.