Allmand TLB 25K (not hydraulics)

[River Valley Landscaping]

It's all back together. HJydro pedal is real touchy. The new coupler must be a lot tighter than my old one. This is going to take a little practice. Everything seem back to normal.

Glad to hear it! Your tractor looks good, seems like it’s all original paint and everything? I dropped off my coupler today with the new spline shaft piece to Bri-Weld up in the Derry/auburn area. I called the guy in Nashua and he said it would be weeks til he could get to it so then I just started calling around and driving to places until someone was up to it. A few places I stopped in at had a minimum for having work done. I was kinda aiming for the larger companies at first hoping it would be something the could squeeze in to their schedule quick but then just went down the google results. I’ve looked the manual over prob 100 different times but just noticed on the maintenance schedule page it says every 500 hours I believe it was to pull the pump off the engine and lube the shaft as well as the drive motor shaft. Have you ever done this? I’ve sprayed some stuff on the shaft when I heard it getting loud before but never took it to serious. The manual also states to use a specific brand of paste grease for the motor shaft. Is it really necessary or should never cease do the trick?

 

[n1iwv]

I use Permatex anti-seize and a little common sense. Pulling the pump off the motor is a real "groin pull". I'm not doing that again, unless I really have to.
Same with the hydro motor.
You have to remember these machines were intended to be rented out to DYI homeowners thru tool rental companies. I bought my from Taylor rental. These machine were ridden hard and put away wet.
I saw that maintenance note.
It also says to change hydro oil every 1000 hours.
My machine has a little over 2000 hours on it and its 20 years old.
I loaned it out to a friend for a week and he managed to break the pinion gear in the differential. I had to rebuild the entire Dana 44 with parts from Bronco Graveyard. I do not loan it out any more.
Also replace the head gaskets on the Kohler Command 25 engine. Not a bad job at all.
Rebuilt one loader hydro cylinder.
IMHO, it is worth keeping machines like this in service. Go out in Today's market and buy a machine that will do what this can do, you're looking at 25K$ and up.

 

[River Valley Landscaping]

I use Permatex anti-seize and a little common sense. Pulling the pump off the motor is a real "groin pull". I'm not doing that again, unless I really have to.
Same with the hydro motor.
You have to remember these machines were intended to be rented out to DYI homeowners thru tool rental companies. I bought my from Taylor rental. These machine were ridden hard and put away wet.
I saw that maintenance note.
It also says to change hydro oil every 1000 hours.
My machine has a little over 2000 hours on it and its 20 years old.
I loaned it out to a friend for a week and he managed to break the pinion gear in the differential. I had to rebuild the entire Dana 44 with parts from Bronco Graveyard. I do not loan it out any more.
Also replace the head gaskets on the Kohler Command 25 engine. Not a bad job at all.
Rebuilt one loader hydro cylinder.
IMHO, it is worth keeping machines like this in service. Go out in Today's market and buy a machine that will do what this can do, you're looking at 25K$ and up.

That’s kinda what I was figuring, my coupler that sheered was bone dry but pulling the pump off the engine isn’t something I would ever consider a maintenance item. That’s just asking for trouble in my opinion. I’ll most likely go the never cease route when I put the coupler back in just so I can get it back apart at some point if need be. I agree prices are rediculous out there for new tractors and they undoubtedly have their problems too that will surface over time. I feel like I’ve invested too much time researching and fixing my tractor up to get rid of it now. I had thought I finally had it back to being able to use it with no real concerns or worries but then the coupler sheered.

 

[n1iwv]

Did you get it put back together yet?
I developed a small hydraulic oil leak coming from the front of the pump were it mates with the engine.
If your pump is still out of your machine, can you see if there are any identifying numbers.
I know its an Eaton pump, but it would be nice to know the exact number before I order the shaft seal.

 

[River Valley Landscaping]

I’m still waiting on a machine shop to finish up welding the splined shaft to the coupler. Kinda annoyed it has taken this long, I spoke with the owner of the shop yesterday and he said he was going to work Saturday to finish it up and have it ready for me. At this point I Wish I just bought a hypertherm and hacked away at it. I will try to look up the pump number when I get home today. I haven’t ever actually set eyes on the identifying plate on the pump on my tractor but I’m 90% sure it is an Eaton 70145 https://www.eaton.com/content/dam/e...placement-repair-information-07-623-en-us.pdf

 

[n1iwv]

I’m still waiting on a machine shop to finish up welding the splined shaft to the coupler. Kinda annoyed it has taken this long, I spoke with the owner of the shop yesterday and he said he was going to work Saturday to finish it up and have it ready for me. At this point I Wish I just bought a hypertherm and hacked away at it. I will try to look up the pump number when I get home today. I haven’t ever actually set eyes on the identifying plate on the pump on my tractor but I’m 90% sure it is an Eaton 70145 https://www.eaton.com/content/dam/e...placement-repair-information-07-623-en-us.pdf

 

[n1iwv]

Thanks for the information. I have that Eaton pdf. Yes, it's a 70145. The identification numbers are stamped somewhere on the case. There are two part numbers for the shaft seal 16253-16 and 16253-216. The 16253-216 is a Viton Seal. I am unable to find a supplier that has either one in stock.
You may want to take a good look at your seal. My pump sat on the shelf in my garage for over a month with no oil in it. I think it may have dried out and cracked. It is only held in with a clip ring and looks easy enough to replace (if you can find one).
I have temperately put a plastic tray under the pump to catch the dripping oil. It held in pace with two magnets and a small bungee cord. I used the tractor for about 3 hours the other day and the tray caught about 4 fluid ounces of oil. I suck it out with an old turkey baster.
I'll use it like this until I can find the part.
Keep me updated on your progress.

 

[River Valley Landscaping]

I ended up getting my tractor back together about a week ago and have been crazy busy catching up on everything I had to put off. I had a wobble coming from the drive motor but it has seemed to smooth out after a few tough jobs using it for a few hours at a time. It was a real pain to get the drive motor back installed. I think I will have to find a replacement at some point but for now it’s working. I took a quick look at my pump and could not find the stamping as it’s covered in dirt and had been painted over at some point. Once I have the time to investigate further I will post the identifying numbers. As far as your leak goes that is unfortunate but doesn’t sound like it is all that much oil leaking at the moment. I would guess my backhoe spools leak as much if not more than the 4 ounces in a few hours. Just enough to leave a few drops on the trailer when transporting a half hour or so.

 

[n1iwv]

Glad to hear it's back together. I had the same wobble issue. I back off the 4 bolts/nuts that hold the hydro motor mounting plate. The ran the tractor (off the ground) back and forth until the motor / plate found its center point. Then I tightened them down and all is good, Ill run it as is for the season and tear it down in early Fall to replace the pump shaft seal. I found one on eBay (Deere cross reference) for $10.

 

[Rluciani]

Hi! Does anyone have info on what tie rod ends were used on these machines. I tried the gentleman from CT who I believe bought out Allmand‘s TLB parts but never received a reply. I believe they can be sourced locally with TRW (vehicle) part numbers. Thank you! Rob