tat2z1969 said:
what is the difference it the diode in line #1 and it being internal in the Alternator?
I posted the 1 wire Alt as a option for those who do not know how to wire a 3 wire system. The 3 wire system is the same as a 1 wire except the 1 wire the diode is internal to the Alt. The diode you say won't let current flow, yet it does on the 3 wire system? Current is not the issue.
1 wire units used for years (Implying that must be the optimum technology now? .. )
No just easy for the the people you insulted and called shadetree or "savage". Not everyone knows how to wire a machine just because they own the machine.
First do you know what a diode does? or do you go by what is on the bin draw at radio shack.
a diode is a component that restricts the direction of movement of charge carriers. Essentially, it allows an electric "CURRENT" to flow in one direction, but blocks it in the opposite direction. The diode can be thought of as an electronic version of a check valve. Circuits that require "CURRENT" in only one direction.
Also the diode will sense impedance and voltage as seperate values apart from CURRENT.
The electric current(I) flowing through a given resistance(R) is equal to the applied voltage(V) divided by the resistance, or i=v/r. For application to alternating-current circuits where inductances and capacitances as well as resistances are present, the law is i=v/z, where z is impedance (the diode).
"The conductor (the diode)in which the current flows is not proportional to the applied voltage "
causes the impedance difference or drop caused by the diode to exicte the regulator because it will see the VOLTAGE as a lower value from the voltage drop due to loss by impedance and inturn causes the rectification of the AC voltage (by the diode trio)to DC produced by the Alternator. So if you do the math a 3 wire or single wire excited alternator requires the same amount of impedance drop caused by a diode to excite the alternator to function. There is no difference, your 3 wire diode picks voltage from the key switch and a 1 wire picks it up from the 1 wire that goes to the battery unless of course in your case they didn't drown enough witches and by magic you have a different voltage at your key switch than at the battery.Or you REALLY have a need to see a idiot light on the dash would be the only reason to run a sense (diode) line to the key switch.
So to answer your Jaz the cold engine statement, if one has to Jaz the engine to get the alternator to excite, then it is a defective unit, ie the regulator is not to spec or the diode is bad in either case or on the 3 wire system your IDIOT light burned out.
to remind you , your statement read what you typed
( besides.. it's so easy to make a 3 wire unit automagically self excite by using a 10 cent diode inline with the #1 line, when connected to switched power.. like the 'ignition.. etc.
The same thing is achieved in a 1 wire alt electronically when the diode is connected from the battery source to the same place you call # 1 line internally.
not the brightest crayon in the box we see.
Aside from your rude comments ( crayon ).. etc.. I'll still answer this post before adding you to my ignore list.
I've had my engineering ticket for a while.. I'm quite aware of what a diode does.
I'm also aware of the working of the delco 10/12 SI alternators. And there are -many- vr combinations for those units. Some of the 1 wire units have a measurable parasytic quiescent current draw on the charge line. Also many have high excitation RPM's. ( some don't ).
I'm not sure why you thouhgt you had to remind me about what i typed. When I refered to high excite rpm I was obviously NOT talking about the 3 wire, but was talking about the 1 wire, and added to that that the 3 wire did turn on at a much lower rpm via #1 terminal diode, idiot lamp, or other suitable series resistance.
I'm not sure why you feel the need to be so rude to me. My comment was a general statement so that the other readers who may be unfamiliar with 1 and 3 wire setups would not think they are all 100% exactly the same.
I've helped with hundreds of 12v 're-conversions' on tractors.. 95% of those re-conversions were due to ham handed shade tree mechanics who had no idea what an electron was, and in general, botched the alternator conversion, or the electrical system entirely.
A diode in line with #1 prevents current flowing from #1 back to the ignition, and feeding the ignition, thus keeping the unit running, as in a conversion for a gas tractor... this also serves to protect the regulator in case the charge line breaks. Once the rpm goes to -0- the regulator virtually completely shuts down. On some of the 1 wire systems, there is still E quiescent current flow due tot he design of the self exciting reg used.
Anyway.. thanks for the rude comments... really shows your elegant social skills and upbringing... thankfully the ignore list will permanently take care of that from now on.
Soundguy
