An "axle-surrounding" type backhoe subframe

[EMB5530]

Re: An "axle-surrounding" type subfram

Wow!!!
If this is some of the first fabrication you have done you did a wonderful job.
Your posts and pics were good too.

Great build man.

 

[len10]

Re: An "axle-surrounding" type subfram

Thanks Eric. I have to say I've been inspired by some of the amazing projects I've seen on this site. There is so much talent, artistry, and craftsmanship out there. It's hard to find people with similar interests in my local community, so it's great to know there are so many people in the wider cyber community to share these projects with.

 

[hobtink]

Re: An "axle-surrounding" type subfram

Len10

Did you use standard mild carbon steel or construction grade steel to your knowledge?

Very good looking job and description. Search google or ebay for spacer for plasma torch or roller cutting guide for plasma cutter, it holds the torch the proper distance for a good constant cut. Judging from your learning skills and determination shown you will be where you want to be very soon.
I am hoping to build a subframe for a kioti lk 3054 and a kubota 3 pt 4690 BH. Your subframe gives me several ideas for what I am thinking about doing. Let us know how your subframe holds up.
hobtink@gmail.com
mitch

 

[len10]

Re: An "axle-surrounding" type subfram

Len10

Did you use standard mild carbon steel or construction grade steel to your knowledge?

hobtink@gmail.com
mitch

I not sure what type of steel I used. I purchased the steel from a company that does mostly residential construction. The wider plates were cutoffs from flitch beams. The owner of the company is a civil engineer and very knowledgeable. The next time I speak with him I'll find out the type of steel I used. Hopefully I over built the subframe, but will let you know how it holds up. The one thing I'm sure of is it should hold up better than the previous 3 point hitch connection.

When you start building your subframe for the Kioti please post some pictures.

 

[hobtink]

Re: An "axle-surrounding" type subfram

Len
It may be a while before I can build a subframe, but the link to your build and ideas is saved in my email. I have an concern with hauling the kubota B4690 3pt hoe on the Kioti LK3054 with FEL. Besides not wanting to place stress on the tractor frame housing when hauling the BH while installed on my tractor if possible, my trailer is 16' long but only 6'6" wide I would like to have both the bucket and the outriggers resting on the trailer deck. But, the BH outriggers are at their narrowest at about 8' wide when fully down, trailer mod? Is having the BH bucket down with the outriggers up adequate? Or will I need to fabricate something from trailer deck or under the trailer up to the BH to help support the BH or place something across the top rail of the trailer to rest the outriggers on to.

 

[len10]

I don't have much experience transporting the tractor. It was only transported once when the backhoe was connected to the 3PH. The bucket was down on the deck and chained to the trailer, but the outriggers were left up. The tractor and backhoe were well chained to the trailer to minimize movement. I don't think transporting the tractor this way places too much strain on the frame, however maybe someone with more experience can give a more educated answer.

 

[hobtink]

What you have stated as the method you used was my option also. An inexpensive creative option for initial / limited hauling of TL and 3 pt BH might be to use an ~ 8 ft long railroad or bridge timber slid across the trailer deck to lower the outriggers on then bind it and all the tractor securely to the trailer with chain, binders/chain falls. I just hate having something like that timber / my BH outriggers protruding even a few inches beyond the overhang of the trailer fenders, potential for the timber/outriggers to bump something or some one to run into them even painted fluorescent orange with reflectors on them. I feel certain I am going to have to re-enforce my loading ramp air gate, possibly its hinge points on the trailer and gate and have some reserve concern about using it due to the expanded metal over the 6 sections and end pieces of 2" light wall tubing which I plan to re-enforce both areas. I have to measure to make sure but I believe the two inside pieces of square tubing are going to line up with the width of the tractor's tires helping to better distribute load across the expanded metal and tubing. Several other options for loading and unloading, lay ramp on backfill or decking for support or use some reinforcing material or buy another trailer which would cost 2-3x what I could sell mine for though mine is in very good condition, it would be better to be 18 + feet long and close to 8 feet wide. Almost all the trailers I find built like that would need a 3/4 ton truck and larger engine which is not an option right now with anymore than I intend to haul it with the BH. I will be mindful to take it easy for purposes of control and stopping. Another option I believe I have is to add about 1 foot to the front of the trailer deck and include a bracket for the FEL bucket to rest on and adding ~1.5 possibly 2 feet to the rear of the trailer frame and deck. Remove the 12" high 1.5" angle iron top rails and and vertical supports between the trailer frame channel and angle top rail on each side. Replacing both top rails with 2" X 2" or 2" X 3" medium wall tubing about 2 to 4 inches above the trailer deck also using the same style square tubing to brace between the trailer frame and new tubing top rail making the over all trailer frame a stronger integral unit than it was with the smaller angle iron. And, look at building in an angled pocket over the top rail to accept and hold the BH out riggers in a tilted position as near their full down position as possible with minimal overhang of the trailer bed and not extend beyond the fender overhang.

 

[ptgdigger]

35 years around this stuff ,I've never seen a backhoe hauled with the outriggers down, bucket down and chained to the deck is the standard method. The stress on a tractor while hauling is nothing compared to what it sees while digging. If you are concerned about the tractor with a 3pt hoe NEVER lift the rear tires with the outriggers while using the hoe.

 

[mjncad]

The bolts in the pictures that don't show lock washers have them at the end adjacent to the nuts. In one picture, there are lock washers at the bolt heads because where wasn't enough clearance to put a lock washer adjacent to the nuts. Is there any value to have a lock washer at both ends?

No BS-ing about this being my first venture. That's why it took me over six months (having to work didn't help either). Thanks for the input.

You want the lockwashers up against the nuts to prevent the nut from vibrating loose and possibly coming off. I guess it's possible that the lockwasher under the bolt head would add additional longitudinal spring tension to keep the nut from coming loose; but I think having the lockwasher next to the nut is preferred practice. I only use lockwashers under the bolt's head is if the bolt goes into a threaded hole. Doing double lockwashers won't really give you any added security.

Very impressive first fabrication job. I'm looking forward to seeing more things from you in the future.

I not sure what type of steel I used. I purchased the steel from a company that does mostly residential construction. The wider plates were cutoffs from flitch beams. The owner of the company is a civil engineer and very knowledgeable. The next time I speak with him I'll find out the type of steel I used. Hopefully I over built the subframe, but will let you know how it holds up. The one thing I'm sure of is it should hold up better than the previous 3 point hitch connection.

When you start building your subframe for the Kioti please post some pictures.

More than likely you are using A36 (36,000 PSI tensile strength) or equivalent mild steel as that grade is real common.

 

[dfkrug]

...but I think having the lockwasher next to the nut is preferred practice. I only
use lockwashers under the bolt's head is if the bolt goes into a threaded hole. Doing double lockwashers
won't really give you any added security.

I agree with all that.

On some of my subframes, I used 1-inch fine thread nylock nuts, which work great.
Sadly, I can only get them special-order now. These nuts are taller, and I did
not use lockwashers with them.

Since most 1-inch bolts/nuts require a 1.5" wrench, and it is tough getting wrenches
in there, I like to use anti-turn stops welded on the nut side and put the
lockwasher on the bolt side (with conventional nuts).