Traction Another R1 v. R4 tires question

[sdef]

I will be purchasing my first CUT and using it to clear our new home site on 4.4 acres, that is densely wooded and rocky- similar to mountain type property, with some small boulders that will tax the FEL, along with the majority of rocks that are maybe 12" - 24" in diameter. The tractor work will be mostly FEL and box blade to clear and build the 475' drive and 2 acre home/garden site. The property is fairly level in the areas I will be working and the ground is hard due to the rocks; it is difficult to drive a metal stake using a 3# sledge hammer due to hitting more rocks under the surface. After clearing the property, I will need to do a lot of landscaping around the home site before building due to the poor drainage of the top soil/rocks. But I am confident it is doable.

I am planning on selecting a tractor in the LS R3039 HST class (38 gross HP, 5500# working) or the LS R4041 HST class (41 gross HP, 6600# working) with FEL, various types of buckets, 500# BB and loaded rear tires, along with a T-N-T unit. From reading the many posts about the T-N-T type of adjustability, I have become a believer. I want to spend most of my time in the seat and not having to make on-the-ground adjustments. For what I have to do and being a newbie at this, T-N-T is the way I am going.

I plan on using a rock bucket with teeth on the FEL for the first pass through a particular area to pickup as many loose/surface rocks as possible and maybe will also drag the BB rippers at the same time to kick up the next layer of rocks. But this will be an experiment in progress... I will also use a stump bucket or spade attachment to pickup the few small boulders or roll them as required.

My question is in selecting the best tires for my usage. I feel my main obstacle will be traction when dragging the BB with rippers through the soil and do not expect the tractor to sink deeply into the soil due to the rocky makeup.

I am an old race car guy, have some 4wd off-road experience and understand what I have been reading in other tires posts on TBN. But I am having a difficult time deciding which tires would be best in my circumstances.

Which tires do all of you think would be best?

Thanks

 

[MHarryE]

Although the R-1 will give you better traction even in your rocky soil, R-4 may be the best choice due to their being much more rugged. We have R-4s on our CUT because it goes in all the rocky ground plus does the brush cleaning around fields while all of our larger tractors have R-1 radials for traction, life, and all the other good things about radials. They seldom get near anything that could damage them. My brother-in-law, on the other hand, has R-1s on his CUT, spends a lot of time around brush, and finally ad is fronts filled with gel due to all the flats.

 

[94BULLITT]

R-4's are a good all around tire.

 

[arrow]

R-4's are a good all around tire.

There has been much discussion on this topic but essentially, if particulars are not expressed, the topic becomes too generalized. To wit: How much does your tractor weigh, what size are the R4's. Are the tires loaded? Because of the size of the tire, how much fluid does it accept? Most small cuts have the 15.9 R4's. Tread pattern is close because of the smaller tire allowing for easier gumming up in mud and many have stated how worthless these tires are on their tractor. Then you have the guy with 14.9 x24 R4's and he has no problem skidding logs in snow. The tractor I'm considering has 11.2 x 24 ags or the larger (43") R4's. With loading the tires, the tractor will weigh 3700 lbs with the loaded 11.2 but 4200 lbs with the R4's. Unfortunately I do not know where weight equals to traction. There are always chains.

 

[94BULLITT]

There has been much discussion on this topic but essentially, if particulars are not expressed, the topic becomes too generalized. To wit: How much does your tractor weigh, what size are the R4's. Are the tires loaded? Because of the size of the tire, how much fluid does it accept? Most small cuts have the 15.9 R4's. Tread pattern is close because of the smaller tire allowing for easier gumming up in mud and many have stated how worthless these tires are on their tractor. Then you have the guy with 14.9 x24 R4's and he has no problem skidding logs in snow. The tractor I'm considering has 11.2 x 24 ags or the larger (43") R4's. With loading the tires, the tractor will weigh 3700 lbs with the loaded 11.2 but 4200 lbs with the R4's. Unfortunately I do not know where weight equals to traction. There are always chains.

Well the BX has 26-12-12. It does extremely good for its size.

I had a Bobcat CT235 with 15-19.5. For the most part I was pleased with the performance of it.

The L4240 has 17.5-24 it is a beast.

Weight does add traction til you are on ice then it does not matter.

 

[sdef]

I am not expecting to have to deal with much deep mud, if any. So at this point in the discussions, R4 seems to be the best in my circumstances due to the rock hazards I will have in abundance. I can always get chains, if necessary and if there is enough fender clearance.

Thanks to all who have replied so far.

 

[TripleR]

We have tractors with Ag as well as Industrial and based on your conditions my choice would be Industrial.

 

[LD1]

Another vote for R4's.

Traction wont be that much less than with R1's. R1's need soft conditions for the lubs to bite in. And as others mentioned, the R4's will be much more durable.

 

[jeff9366]

I am planning on selecting a tractor in the LS R3039 HST class (38 gross HP, 5500# working) or the LS R4041 HST class (41 gross HP, 6600# working) with FEL, various types of buckets, 500# BB and loaded rear tires, along with a T-N-T unit.

My question is in selecting the best tires for my usage. I feel my main obstacle will be traction when dragging the BB with rippers through the soil. Which tires do all of you think would be best?

LS web site shows weight of LS3039 as 2,780 pounds and 54" tire width. What is the 5500# stat you show? You have to feed T-B-N standard info to get a tailored reply.

At any rate, both the LS tractors you are considering are fairly heavy and you are planning on loading the tires. Neither tractor will have any dificullty pulling a 500 pound box blade, as wheel slippage will be a non-issue with loaded R4 tires. Personally, had I such a brawny tractor, even with TnT, I would look for a 66" box blade in the 650-700 pound range. If you intend to dislodge rocks and boulders with the rippers you want them beefy and the implement heavy.

If you do not have considerable tractor experience be very cautious on hills until you are familiar with the tractor.

Go with industrial tires/R4's.

Do not wait too long to order your tractor. I am kicking myself for not ordering a Kubota L3540/Tier 3 compliant tractor in time; now they are gone. I am facing $6,000 more for L3560/Tier 4 compliant engine. I am pro-environment but $6000 is a LOT of money for slightly lower emissions.

PS: LS does not specify a folding ROPS. If you intend to keep your tractor inside be sure to plan a door at least 96" high.

 

[sdef]

Jeff9366- The weight figures I quote are for a working tractor with FEL (1100#), bucket, box blade and loaded tires. The figures you saw on the LS web site are for a bare tractor. I just added all of the weights together so any posters would have an easier time understanding my situation and not have to extrapolate, which is why I mentioned the "working" weight.

I measured the rear tire width on the 3039 and it is 67.5". With the 4041s larger tires, I imagine it will be right at 70" - 72" wide, but will measure the next time I get over there. So the current plans are for a 72" BB.

Can you suggest a particular box blade in the 650# - 700# range or will I just need to fabricate additional weight? I tested a new Yanmar LX4100 yesterday and the dealer had just gotten in a new shipment of Woods HD box blades with a Yanmar name on them. It was very beefy and built very similar to the Everything Attachments high end BB for a similar price. But the woods only weighed 550# net, while the ETA weighs 630#. I am hooping I do not have to pay $1300 for a BB I would have little use for once I get this project is completed. Well used, old, BBs around here on Craig's List and elsewhere are listed at near new prices, even for things that are obviously damaged. I have not been to any farm auctions yet.

Yes, I am concerned about the 2014 Tier 4 price increases also, but my dealer has assured me I will still be able to get what I want when the 2014s come out. Right now my plans are to order one the end of July, once I get the finances in order.