Tiller Another Tiller Post

[Alan L.]

The biggest problem I having in tiller selection is size. Based on what I have been reading there is no better bargain than the KK at Tractor Supply. My Kubota 2710 has 27 gross HP, but only 20 PTO HP. The KK 60" calls for 25 HP and up and its about $1150 at TSC right now. There is one store (McKinney) that is carrying 48" tillers that are $1098.

The problem is, the 60" would seem to be a might big, but the 48" seems to be giving up a little size that my tractor is able to handle.

Of course these KK tillers are gear. The CCM gear tillers seem like a fair deal, although they were a lot cheaper a year ago. The 56" seems more like the right size and its $1250 plus shipping I think, total probalby $1400 or more.

The First Choice 56" chain tiller is slightly less at Sweet Tractor.

My first project is pretty big. I am putting in common bermuda for hay on about 4 acres, so its a lot of tilling. I own a disk, but it takes multiple passes to break it up, and you have to be moving to accomplish anthing. Our soil, especially this soil, is very heavy clay. There are no big rocks, but an occasional 3 or 4 inch flat rock in this clay that came of of the digging of my pond.

So this is not really a whose tiller is best post, but rather, what size is the best fit for my tractor, and should chain vs gear be a non-issue? I haven't heard much complaining about chains breaking on this forum, so that would seem to not be a big problem unless chain tillers are just too light and like to hop around instead of dig.

The KK 48" is substantial, although the paint job is not great. I think it has an non-adjustable offset so it would cover the tires of the tractor. But I just wonder if I would be unhappy with the size in terms of how much tilling can be done in a certain period of time.

 

[texastomtom]

I am not educated enough on the subject to comment, but that has never stopped me !

If you like the 60" and the price is right - I am wondering if just slowing down a bit would get you by. Assuming your tractor can lift it and operate it at a slightly reduced speed.

If it takes the 60" to cover your tracks that might be worth something to you. Not that the tracks are a big deal in all cases - but they may be to you.

If you think a 56" would work - it doesn't seem like just a few more inches would make more difference that you could make up for by slowing down a bit.

If you are really concerned about HP I would personally spend the money to get the 1400 dollar one that you want/like.

I subscribe to the theory " get what you want/like and you will likely be satisifed with it for a long time, if you skimp and try to get by with less - you almost always wind up regretting it over the long haul and perhaps even having to reinvest later to upgrade to the place you should have been to begin with."

Another good thing about it - it will give you an excuse to get a bigger tractor later /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

tom

If a couple hundreds bucks is going to break you - should you be looking to spend any money at all on a tiller ?

 

[texastomtom]

You might even do well to just rent a tiller/tractor for a day for this job. If most of your jobs are not this large ???


I'm in texas, not sure where you are, I could come till it for ya /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

 

[Killer_B]

Alan,

I have a B7610 with a Woods 52". I also have clay soil that is the consistency of concrete in mid summer. My tractor runs that tiller just fine. Your 2710 will run the 60" without breaking a sweat. Go for it.

KB

 

[Alan L.]

texastom, yea come on down! I'm north of Dallas.

I have considered the rental issue. I rented a 50" Befco and used it on this tractor to till about 3500 square feet for sod, about 3 years ago.

The tiller worked fine and it was only about $60 for the day. However, It was a royal pain going the 27 miles to the rental place (a Kubota dealer) and having to take it back after I was finished. I also had a bad experience.

When I picked up the tiller I noticed the back swing-gate or whatever you call it was flaired out (back) on both sides. I didn't say anything because I thought it was supposed to be that way. When I took it back he accused me of doing the "damage". I refused to take responsiblity for it because I knew I was not the one that cause it, if it was even damage at all. Anyway, he's the only one around here that you can rent a tiller from, and I really don't want to go there. The other outfits want to rent you the whole tractor and tiller for about $200 a day.

The $1100 or the $1400 really does not make that much difference I guess in the long run. I just sort of have an amount in mind, and it was more like the $1100. Much more and I will find it harder to justify.

 

[Alan L.]

I guess I should put an addendum in this tiller tread. It seems strange to me that manufacturers have different HP recommendations for the same size tillers. Seems like the only resistance should be the dirt, and 60" of dirt is 60" of dirt, given the same number of tines and the same depth. So why the difference? Could it be that some tillers are just harder to turn than others, even without dirt?

 

[texastomtom]

400 miles !!!!!

ouch...

Sorry you got into that deal with the rental place.

Last time I rented something I spent 1/2 the day just getting it in operating order....

This was a gasoline phd.... I will never do that again... I have one for the tractor now /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif wooo hoooo

If you have several jobs to do and continuing jobs around I woud sure get my own. I do not like having to go pickup stuff and take it back.. I want the equipment here and handy when I want it... For seasonal things the equipment is likely already rented on the days you want it anyhow...

Tom

 

[texastomtom]

The mechanical inefficiencies would come into play - but you would not think it would be over 5% variation between designs.

Your right though - the number of tines - weight, length and width of tines -bearings - gears or chains - design operating depths - would all come into play.

Perhaps they are all tested in 'local conditions' which could create a considerable difference in hp requirments.

Tom

 

[Bird]

Alan, my tiller was just a 40" Bush Hog brand, chain drive, perfect size for my B7100 and I kept it and used it, offset to the right, on my B2710. It saw a lot more use and heavier use than most tillers for 7 years without a single problem. The manual said to remove the chain cover, clean and grease it every 100 hours. I usually maintain things pretty much according to the manual, but I only did that once, after a couple of years. Then after another 3 years, I pulled the cover, looked at it, and put the cover back on without doing anything to it. I checked the oil in the gear box maybe once a year, but never changed it or added any. So after 7 years, the tines were definitely showing a lot of wear, but it was even wear, none broken, and none ever changed. My point being that, for me, the chain vs. gear question would not be very important.

As for size, I'd have bought a 60" tiller in a heartbeat for my B2710 if I hadn't already had that 40" one before I bought the B2710. Just never could bring myself to spend that much money when I had something that worked, although I came close a couple of times; sure did want a 60" tiller. My cousin uses a 62" tiller on his TC29D New Holland.

 

[ronjhall]

Alan
I have a 50" tiller for my B2910. It has offset. I don't think you will be happy with a 48" on your tractor without offset. Get the 60". If you need to cut back on load you can take tines off one side of tiller. The only time I have stalled my tractor with the tiller is when a rock got caught in it.